About gear box Peerles-HMST-206-565

[Bange]

Good news!!!
1 - Carlisle answered me which tube is ideal for my tire ... Carlisle 320410 Tube 18 X 6.50 / 8.50 / 9.50-8, confirming what was said by the Lefort team ... excellent!
2 - After sanding, experimenting, sanding, experimenting ... I reached a maximum thickness value, to fix the support with the pads in place, without braking. The thickness was 8mm (0.315 ") ... it shows! This on my system, which has some differences in relation to the manufacturer's manual, which may be some adaptation or solution on the part of the importer.
3 - I removed the screw, spring and ball assembly and turned the box upside down and ... oil came out !!! As the passage is very narrow and the oil thick, it is coming out very slowly, but I believe it will be possible to measure the quantity and replace this old and very dark oil. But the ideal would be the proper place for the oil to come out in good volume, bringing eventual dirt, filings, etc ...
Now, even if Peerless doesn’t answer me (which I think is quite right), I can drill in the appropriate place, but I need you to tell me what material the cover is made of, as it is certain that it will be an absurd value and I can do it one...

 

[Bange]

Although I managed to drain the oil through the hole in the ball, drilling the box could be an option, but the amount of oil that came out, after 2 days with various inclinations, was half of what it should be (like in a car, standing up) 5% must be normal), indicating that:
1 - or leaked (although with no apparent traces)
2 - or was it poorly maintained (?)
3 - or has already been assembled at the factory with a small quantity (difficult, but possible)
Now I'm going to drill and wash the interior with kerosene (dissolving and loosening the thick parts and filings), and put the right amount of oil.

 

[Bange]

Well, as I said before, I drilled the hole and put 1 liter of kerosene ... I swung in several positions until I was tired ... something like sand (!?!) came out, small pieces of joint and very fine iron filings of used gearboxes.
Even when swinging and rotating the axles with kerosene, no part leaked, ensuring a good seal.
I put the amount of 500ml of SAE 90 oil (here we don't need the 80W90), and now I wait since last Thursday, Murray representative's quote for flat washers (29) and lock washer (29C), which I found worn on the input shaft. .. the ring hangs (27) I bought in a parallel store.
With these worn out components, the gear goes wrong in the differential and starts a characteristic noise ... without these parts I cannot finish the gearbox.

 

[Bange]

Well, the solution for the washers ended up being national, since neither the official seller returned my request for a quote (made within 1 week) and I will also not import via Amazon or e-Bay.
I found the washers in the exact diameters, with a small difference in thickness ... at (29) with 0.5mm and at (29C) with 1mm, as will be 1 x (29C) + 2 x (29) they add up to 2.1mm ... the new ones will give 2.0mm, the difference of 0.1mm in total is not important.
These washers are manufactured for the starter and brake of some Mercedes vehicle and are even cheaper than there in the USA.
The (29) package of 20 units at USD 4.08 and the (29C) package of 10 units at USD 1.72 - simple conversion) ... now it is waiting for the arrival (+ - 20 days ... must deliver to foot ?).

In the meantime, I would like some discussion of a modification to this gearbox, which I have seen in some videos ... some call it up grade, others call it lock (with or without weld).
Examples:

This modification has a specific purpose (competition type), which?
Do you have any advantage for use only as a lawn mower?
Does it cause any problems (strength, wear out more, heat up) for the gearbox?
It is noticed that it improves traction in sandy terrains, with mud and even snow, but in these cases there is no grass.

What do the experts think about it?

 

[Bange]

Nobody answered...?

 

[bertsmobile1]

Some of us have lives you know
Anzac day here yesterday.
Diffs consume power
Racers want every ft lb at the back wheel not heating the gearbox oil.
Add to that they want both wheels driving all the time for better traction except when they are sliding around a corner.

On a mower you get better traction because a wheel with no down force can not just sit there spinning while you go nowhere because the other wheel will also be driving.

Down side
because both wheels drive all the time you either have to do 3 point turns or very wide turns .
Trying to do tight turns will just keep going forward till the tyre rolls off the rim.
All of my mowers have direct drive ( no diff )

 

[Rivets]

Didn’t know a reply was expect.

 

[Bange]

bertsmobile1
kkkk ... me too ...
Anzac Day is an Australian celebration ... do you live in Australia or in an Australian community?
Lawn mowers is a completely new subject for me and here there are no groups for discussion and to know more is to make less mistakes.
As I thought, this modification does not make sense only for those who mow the lawn.

Rivets
It was not really a direct question of a defect, it was more of a topic for discussion and I believe that the bertsmobile1 has cleared up well. But tell us what you think about such a change in the gearbox.

 

[Rivets]

I doubt that the changes would be worth anything to anybody but you. Time and cost would not be valid unless you have a very specific need.

 

[Bange]

I also think that any change is based on external needs, but there are hobbyists, people who have to do something unprecedented or very difficult ... a self challenge.
There are also those who do it for the sake of exhibitionism ... I think that's where the crazy contests start.
I saw videos of people who, in addition to making the modification, add a second box, imitating a 4x4 vehicle.