McTurff
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Messing with linkages getting close idle is rough!
McTurff
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I went the long way around on this one
But know how change a governor now! haha
Now need to see if i can adjust everything to get engine to smooth out!
McTurff
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Ok new problem
Only running on one cylinder??
Found by accident
Pulled plugs to check them one dirtier than other cleaned it up a bit put back in and engine running perfectly!
Then I looked and saw forgot to put wire on the dirtier plug side!
Put it back on engine runs rougher!
Pulled other plug to test dirty plug side and no start! Engine turns no start!
So cylinder problem!
Maybe new coil?
Spark plug?
Last edited:
McTurff
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Somewhere in the back of my mind I remember that for the ignition module to function both wires must be connected to a spark plug. yet the service manual does not specify.
Does your engine have points or is it magnatron
Note the trouble shooting paragraph and illustration below.
If someone can say I'm wrong -- please do so.
With spark plugs installed, attach a #19368 ignition
tester to each spark plug lead and ground the other end
of the tester as shown in Fig. 8. Spin the flywheel
rapidly with engine starter. If spark jumps the tester
gaps, you may assume the ignition system is functioning
satisfactorily.
Does your engine have points or is it magnatron
Note the trouble shooting paragraph and illustration below.
If someone can say I'm wrong -- please do so.
With spark plugs installed, attach a #19368 ignition
tester to each spark plug lead and ground the other end
of the tester as shown in Fig. 8. Spin the flywheel
rapidly with engine starter. If spark jumps the tester
gaps, you may assume the ignition system is functioning
satisfactorily.
McTurff
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Yes coil
Magnatron!
McTurff
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- Jul 12, 2025
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It's running now governor working
With dash at slow idle can get it to idle almost where I want it but have to push to idle screw a little
That is without the spring that goes to tang
That spring gives to much tension and will pull up to higher idle speeds
This all with air cleaner off
If I put my hand over carb seems I can get it to run a little smoother and adjust the air fuel screw below carb!
I do have spark to both plugs now and engine will run on each plug wire individually meaning if I pull one plug wire at a time it starts and runs!
I can tell this is going to take some fine tuning!
So your carb has the jet adjust on the front of the carb?
If so that screw is for slow idle smooth engine idle adjust. I've seen some that just 1/4 turn difference CW-CCW will produce non-smooth idle and some will need just a slight different adjust from cold engine to warm engine. I usually go for the smoothest warm engine setting. Briggs says to start around 1 1/2 turns out but I've seen some want to be correct at just 1/2 turn out.
Some of them carb that do not have a low jet adjust and just will not be real smooth at idle. I prefer the type carbs that can be adjusted.
Also YOU WILL find that sometimes the engine will be running smooth for long period of time and eventually start running little bit rough and keep getting worse. Instead of pulling the carb off, Just let the engine cool and remove the bowl drain bolt and drain the carb bowl and SURPRISE 90% of time it will then run smooth. Do not drain the bowl when the engine is hot because the gas spills direct onto the hot muffler. (might have to prime the carb throat afterwards to get quick start up)
Quite often I've cleared up a rough run also on the opposed twin carbs without removing the carb from the manifold. Take the 4 screws out of the top and the gasket will need to come up with the top because the float is under the gasket. I can usually be careful and use a putty knife and work the gasket loose from the bottom section of the carb and quite often the gasket will remain good.
If the gasket breaks just replace and be sure you use the correct one of the several from a kit and lube the gasket when going back with vaseline on both sides.
After removing the top on a rough runner just use low pressure air 20# or so and blow air across the top of the carb or use canned carb cleaned into the jet holes. Do not direct inject air compressor air, just wave the nozzle across the top of the carb jet area, re-install the top and test. If you have the carb off the manifold be sure and use a gasket on EACH SIDE of the plastic spacer below the carb to manifold.
If your does not straighten up just install another carb and re-test.
Next:. HEADS UP CAUTION
Be sure you get them 3 screws that hold the breather pan to the carb body good and snug. They will vibrate loose and go inside the engine. I use a blue locktite threadlocker on them just enough that they won't back out due to vibs.
That engine uses champion RJ19LM spark plugs or equal.
If it gets hard to start when hot replace the plugs and if that don't get a go replace the magneto and set the air gap at .010. I get good operation from the $20 magnetos, just be sure it's not installed upside down, some are labeled up in small letters, some not labeled.
Them type carbs are user friendly to work on and usually very reliable until they get a small slug of water inside.
If so that screw is for slow idle smooth engine idle adjust. I've seen some that just 1/4 turn difference CW-CCW will produce non-smooth idle and some will need just a slight different adjust from cold engine to warm engine. I usually go for the smoothest warm engine setting. Briggs says to start around 1 1/2 turns out but I've seen some want to be correct at just 1/2 turn out.
Some of them carb that do not have a low jet adjust and just will not be real smooth at idle. I prefer the type carbs that can be adjusted.
Also YOU WILL find that sometimes the engine will be running smooth for long period of time and eventually start running little bit rough and keep getting worse. Instead of pulling the carb off, Just let the engine cool and remove the bowl drain bolt and drain the carb bowl and SURPRISE 90% of time it will then run smooth. Do not drain the bowl when the engine is hot because the gas spills direct onto the hot muffler. (might have to prime the carb throat afterwards to get quick start up)
Quite often I've cleared up a rough run also on the opposed twin carbs without removing the carb from the manifold. Take the 4 screws out of the top and the gasket will need to come up with the top because the float is under the gasket. I can usually be careful and use a putty knife and work the gasket loose from the bottom section of the carb and quite often the gasket will remain good.
If the gasket breaks just replace and be sure you use the correct one of the several from a kit and lube the gasket when going back with vaseline on both sides.
After removing the top on a rough runner just use low pressure air 20# or so and blow air across the top of the carb or use canned carb cleaned into the jet holes. Do not direct inject air compressor air, just wave the nozzle across the top of the carb jet area, re-install the top and test. If you have the carb off the manifold be sure and use a gasket on EACH SIDE of the plastic spacer below the carb to manifold.
If your does not straighten up just install another carb and re-test.
Next:. HEADS UP CAUTION
Be sure you get them 3 screws that hold the breather pan to the carb body good and snug. They will vibrate loose and go inside the engine. I use a blue locktite threadlocker on them just enough that they won't back out due to vibs.
That engine uses champion RJ19LM spark plugs or equal.
If it gets hard to start when hot replace the plugs and if that don't get a go replace the magneto and set the air gap at .010. I get good operation from the $20 magnetos, just be sure it's not installed upside down, some are labeled up in small letters, some not labeled.
Them type carbs are user friendly to work on and usually very reliable until they get a small slug of water inside.