Were these the original plugs? What brand and part number? Any signs of fouling? I’m interested in knowing.Final update - took it to a shop and determined it was a bad plug. I had replaced both plugs a few weeks ago, but apparently one was bad. Guy at the shop identified it as soon as I fired it up and backed it off the trailer. He said it sounded like it was only running one one cylinder initially, and then the second one kicked in a few seconds later. Probably why the issue was intermittent (sometimes struggled and other times didn't). Shop replaced the bad plug and ran it for a while to confirm everything was okay. Didn't charge me too much for the simple fix. I ran it for 3-4 hours this weekend and had no issues, so at this point it appears the issue is resolved.
2021 BB Rogue engine struggling
- Thread starter HunterTR
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Not by me. We are starting to see counterfeit plugs showing up in purchases from Amazon and EBay.Doesn't matter, just a bad plug people. Guy is cutting grass now. Funny all the vigilanties looking to slam some brand of plugs here LOL.
One plug out of 74 trillion now and counting......
An authentic plug can be bad off of the assembly line.
A plug can be damaged before being installed.
Fouling can occur in new engines that aren’t tuned correctly.
I had a garbage Yamaha engine that fouled plugs quickly. That junk is gone.
bertsmobile1
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Actually you are wrong
Each & every spark plug is tested and graded as they come off the machines before they are stamped & printed
So there is no such thing as a bad in the box genuine spark plug
However there is no longer any glaze on the centre insulator so once a single spark has tracked down the nose that plug is junked
Add to that modern fuels ( which are not petrol ) are quite conductive at combustion chamber pressures .
So then you have a situation that just enough fuel condenses on the insulator to allow the first spark to track down the side rather than jump the gap and that plug is deceased .
This is why a lot of modern engines use igniters rather than standard plugs or have coil packs on each lead so that the first spark is always a good one .
Mower plugs have a hard life as the magneto voltage is proportional to the engine speed so at starter speeds you get a low energy spark which is very likely to be too small to jump the gap on the first combustion cycles thus the plug gets wet .
I have sat on the end of a spark plug machine for nearly a year till they abolished the night shift
So, there is no chance of damage between the factory and before installation?
I suppose that there is no such thing as counterfeit plugs being sold on Amazon and EBay.
bertsmobile1
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Considering the way plugs are packed, being the 144 plug plates that go to engine factories, the individual boxed premium plugs ( they are the ones that passed with flying colours ) or the blister backed supermarket plugs ( the ones that did not do so well ) then your answer is just about no .
As for counterfeit plugs, I hear about them but I can not see any profit in counterfeiting a std $ 2 spark plug
Now counterfitting a $ 20 exotic metal spark plug then yes that would be worthwhile but AFAIK there are no mowers that run platinum plugs standard let alone Iridium plugs
I think it matters. His first post says he just changed the plugs. Then the issue is diagnosed as a bad plug. Parts are parts parts for you? Tires are tires. Blades are blades. Mowers are mowers. Gas is gas. Filters are just filters, if it fits run it.Doesn't matter, just a bad plug people. Guy is cutting grass now. Funny all the vigilanties looking to slam some brand of plugs here LOL.
One plug out of 74 trillion now and counting......
Amazon sellers dont "counterfeit" Chinese plugs. They sell convenient cheap parts with names like "savior" on the spark plug. A chainsaw service kit WITH CARB costs $15 (carb, air filter, fuel filter, fuel hoses, primer bulb). That junk doesnt go on my saw. Junk plugs dont go on my anything.
Still interested to know the plug brand. You know, so I can be an unreasonable vigilante (somehow).
bertsmobile1
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No idea about the USA because the market there is a lot bigger but down here spark plugs were made in Sydney & Melbourne which are 800 miles apart.
Cars were made in Sydney, Melbourne & Adelaide .
Spark plug profits are very small and transport costs are big so the Champion plant in Sydney made every brand of plug apart from Bosch and the factory in Melbourne did the same.
Now while the parts were different they were all made on the same machine in Sydney, Melbourne had a bigger turn over so they may have had more than one line so different brands could have been made on different machines but in Sydney, all out of the same one .
So I always find brand arguements quite amusing down here .
and FWIW spark plugs and dry cell battery plants are the only ones have seen where proper automation.
Even back as far as the 70's the only human part was to wheel the racks of parts into the feed slots and wheel the stillages of plugs to the packing line.
No human hand touched anything other than the QC guy pulling the odd one off the machine for lab testing .
Agree and very old news. Most items not all, on fleabay and amazon, are Chinese knock offs. Starting to see........ Dude this is a 20+ year old message.
Shipping and the like, sure can. Fork lifts and so on....
Sounds proper. Not a plug problem though.
I sold/serviced OEM equipment for over 30 years
in that 30 years I had TWO bad NGK spark plugs. TWO. Out of...gosh...tens of thousands?
not to say it doesn't happen. Because it does/and did. Just not frequently.
Champion I had lots of those bad, right out of the box. Tested or not, they was bad. "Lots" meaning maybe 25 total? More often than it should have been for sure! Usually on gas burner Kohler and Briggs...as kawasaki uses NGK as does Kubota (KZG770 engine).
Recently ran into some motorcraft plugs that was bad, arcing INSIDE the insulator (visible from the outside). Brand new, came right from Ford. Had it been down in the well of a DOHC engine, I'd never have noticed it. These were on the race car, so not a huge deal except it was significantly down on power. After not finding a clear-cut problem at the track, I drug it home and in the shop it was sitting there idling-and there it was. #8 cyl. I might still have it on video somewhere. #6 didn't look too hot either, had signs of carbon tracking along the bottom of the insulator, looked like it was arcing from OEM. I say "OEM" because we ordered them from Kubota. They probably got 'em from Champion directly. the insulator to the hex. In 30 years of messing with this car I've always run Motorcraft or Autolite (3933 Autolites were usually a little better running than the motorcrafts, but I recently learned that Autolite moved their operations elsewhere, and the plugs even look different. I used them anyway and not even 5 minutes of run time I knew they were messed up. I put a set of Brisk Racing plugs in it and it seems to have solved the issue, although Brisk plugs are significantly more expensive. Didn't get to go this weekend (COVID) but I'll know next weekend for sure. Supposed to test Friday. Also on the old car (turbocharged) I always ran Autolites in that too, but the "new" plugs misfired occasionally. Put Motorcrafts in, ran perfect. Or as "perfect" as that thing would run. Fun little car, but it had to go to a new owner.
in that 30 years I had TWO bad NGK spark plugs. TWO. Out of...gosh...tens of thousands?
not to say it doesn't happen. Because it does/and did. Just not frequently.
Champion I had lots of those bad, right out of the box. Tested or not, they was bad. "Lots" meaning maybe 25 total? More often than it should have been for sure! Usually on gas burner Kohler and Briggs...as kawasaki uses NGK as does Kubota (KZG770 engine).
Recently ran into some motorcraft plugs that was bad, arcing INSIDE the insulator (visible from the outside). Brand new, came right from Ford. Had it been down in the well of a DOHC engine, I'd never have noticed it. These were on the race car, so not a huge deal except it was significantly down on power. After not finding a clear-cut problem at the track, I drug it home and in the shop it was sitting there idling-and there it was. #8 cyl. I might still have it on video somewhere. #6 didn't look too hot either, had signs of carbon tracking along the bottom of the insulator, looked like it was arcing from OEM. I say "OEM" because we ordered them from Kubota. They probably got 'em from Champion directly. the insulator to the hex. In 30 years of messing with this car I've always run Motorcraft or Autolite (3933 Autolites were usually a little better running than the motorcrafts, but I recently learned that Autolite moved their operations elsewhere, and the plugs even look different. I used them anyway and not even 5 minutes of run time I knew they were messed up. I put a set of Brisk Racing plugs in it and it seems to have solved the issue, although Brisk plugs are significantly more expensive. Didn't get to go this weekend (COVID) but I'll know next weekend for sure. Supposed to test Friday. Also on the old car (turbocharged) I always ran Autolites in that too, but the "new" plugs misfired occasionally. Put Motorcrafts in, ran perfect. Or as "perfect" as that thing would run. Fun little car, but it had to go to a new owner.