2007 Toro Recycler Easy Start 190cc B&S hard starting

[kingjames1]

I could be wrong but i doubt RTV would tolerate the heat . That info. may be in the literature on the tube .

Ok

 

[RYANS']

Ok, another question. Will this create a problem on this small engine? Noticed it when cleaning the head. Or should I use some RTV with the head gasket?View attachment 68199

Had this on my cylinder head on my Liberty though not as pronounced. It caused a tiny leak of coolant which set a code. Had to change the cylinder head.

Have you seen farmcraft 101, on you tube. He sanded a head just by sticking a sand paper to a flat bench top. Nice pic.

 

[kingjames1]

No. I'll have to watch that. Thanks.

 

[SeniorCitizen]

Also a table saw etc. table or any other similar machine table will work to sand flat . A pencil marks may indicate how good you doing .

 

[bertsmobile1]

It is a casting defect
They can actually move through the alloy when it gets hot enough
Flat heads usually do not have that much compression so it should not be a problem
IF it worries you then Devcon aluminium paste is the best filler
Next best is POR 15 metal filler
After that there are thousands of "liquid metals " that will do the job
Clean the surface fill the hole leave it a couple of weeks then file flat

OTOH and reasonable welder can put a dolop of weld in there for you .

 

[kingjames1]

That YOU picked up on. Reread what you typed and what I typed again. Let it fester a bit.

B&S website says to decarbon when needed. It doesn't say once a year. That requires removing the head according to the web site. There are no engine manuals available on the Support site. Only Parts and Owners manuals.

The fins stay clean since they are in a horizontal orientation.

It is a casting defect
They can actually move through the alloy when it gets hot enough
Flat heads usually do not have that much compression so it should not be a problem
IF it worries you then Devcon aluminium paste is the best filler
Next best is POR 15 metal filler
After that there are thousands of "liquid metals " that will do the job
Clean the surface fill the hole leave it a couple of weeks then file flat

OTOH and reasonable welder can put a dolop of weld in there for you .

Ok thanks.

 

[GearHead36]

B&S website says to decarbon when needed. It doesn't say once a year.

That COULD be, potentially, never. If the engine is properly maintained, primarily the air filter, the engine won't carbon up. It will probably wear out before it gets carboned up. If the air filter is allowed to get really dirty, the problems snowball. Once the air filter gets so dirty, it will start sucking up oil into the airbox, making the air filter even more restrictive. This causes the engine to run really rich, causing carbon deposits, and a fouled plug. If I catch the air filter before it starts getting fouled with oil, i.e. the filter is dirty with dry dirt, I'll just blow it out with compressed air. Once the filter gets wet, it's done. Oil, gas, water, it doesn't matter. It gets replaced.

 

[kingjames1]

That COULD be, potentially, never. If the engine is properly maintained, primarily the air filter, the engine won't carbon up. It will probably wear out before it gets carboned up. If the air filter is allowed to get really dirty, the problems snowball. Once the air filter gets so dirty, it will start sucking up oil into the airbox, making the air filter even more restrictive. This causes the engine to run really rich, causing carbon deposits, and a fouled plug. If I catch the air filter before it starts getting fouled with oil, i.e. the filter is dirty with dry dirt, I'll just blow it out with compressed air. Once the filter gets wet, it's done. Oil, gas, water, it doesn't matter. It gets replaced.

I noticed you can see the valves clearly with the spark plug out. Never noticed that. So it should be an easy check when looking for carbon buildup.

First time really working on a small engine other than replacing the carb

Thanks everyone.

 

[kingjames1]

I noticed you can see the valves clearly with the spark plug out. Never noticed that. So it should be an easy check when looking for carbon buildup.

First time really working on a small engine other than replacing the carb

Thanks everyone.

Just writing this for all the other amateur's out there having this issue.

After pulling my hair out for the last couple months, and threatening to throw this mower out, I think I found the problem.

After replacing everything, cleaning out the carbon, lapping the valves, the mower started but still ran badly. It still smoked also. (Maybe that's what caused the carbon buildup.)

So I started studying Youtube videos and watched one guy talk about the automatic choke. He said a common mistake amateur's, like me, make is to thread the thermostat onto the automatic choke which will make it hard to start and run. So thinking back to last year, I remember I removed the muffler and the thermostat fell off. Don't remember why I did that. I threaded the thermostat onto the choke since that appeared to be the common sense procedure. Hence the hard starting and smoking.

So yesterday I removed it and this time didn't thread the thermostat onto the choke. It started on the first pull and didn't smoke.

Purr's like a kitten.