10 Year Old Raptor Bogging Down

[rrichar1]

Wow guys, thanks for all the responses! There are a lot of suggestions and will take under advisement but probably try draining the tank (again, the professional I took it says they did that) and replace the fuel line(s). We are at the end of season and in a drought but did mow this property this week with the other raptor. I replaced this problem raptor so at this point it’s a spare and can take my time dealing with it and will be kept as a mule, fixed or sold as is. I will come back and report what I found or what I did.

 

[louiewilmot955]

I have a 2013 Hustler Raptor with a Kawasaki engine that bogs down under load in high grass and I have to slow down to let it recover or it acts like it’s going to die. I’ve had it happen once coming up out of a culvert without mower engaged while pulling a leaf picker upper attachment. The engine runs strong and sounds good but we have:

Replaced:
- Both ignition coils
- Both spark plugs
- Mower blades
- Air filter
- mower belt
- fuel filter
- Fuel solenoid on carburetor
- Had the carburetor disassembled and cleaned.
- Replaced Fuel Evaporation System Filter

At a loss on what to try next. Maybe Spindles or PTO?

My thought would be a head gasket or cracked head. Runs good cold but after hard work engine heats up and opened Crack an losses compression.

 

[jviews12]

I like ruling out possibilities. I would check the valves as suggested above. I would BLOW OUT OLD GAS AND TANK and start aclean. Just reverse blow fuel filter, do not change again. Blow out line from carb to pump, and test pump by taking output hose and dumping fuel into container to see if volume is an issue. Is carb shut-off valve restricting fuel flow? Lets us rule things out so that eventually there is nothing left. No more money spent until we rule out simple things please.

 

[TobyU]

I had a problem with my Kubota ZT mower and did all the normal stuff mentioned here. None of it worked. Yes I threw some parts at it, fuel pump, filter, cleaned carb, checked valve lash still had no power and ran poorly. I said F it and bought a new OEM carb……in the process of installing it I noticed a warped intake. Replaced that and it runs like new. I’m no expert but have rebuilt many motorcycle engines, auto transmissions and raced cars and did all the tuning and engine swaps. Maybe not the sharpest tool in the shed but I know how to do most stuff. The problem is so many ideas are thrown out on this fine forum that you still end up throwing a bit of parts and time at it. sometimes the “experts” don’t have the answer either LOL.

That's because the experts don't have the machine in front of them.
In the process of doing the basic checks for whatever the symptom is, they would likely spot other or unlikely causes like your warped intake.
Lol
They really know how to fix things.

 

[bertsmobile1]

With the exception of things that have distinctive sounds like blown head gaskets then diagnosis is a matter of testing in a logical order ruling things out 1 at a time starting at the most common hen working through to the more obscure.
The big problems with forums is most responders will come in with that obscure fault that had them stumped for ages because that is the one they remember .
The most common reason for single cylinder engines failing to start is mal adjusted vales
The most common reason for twins to have no power is a dead cylinder

 

[Ronni]

I have a 2013 Hustler Raptor with a Kawasaki engine that bogs down under load in high grass and I have to slow down to let it recover or it acts like it’s going to die. I’ve had it happen once coming up out of a culvert without mower engaged while pulling a leaf picker upper attachment. The engine runs strong and sounds good but we have:

Replaced:
- Both ignition coils
- Both spark plugs
- Mower blades
- Air filter
- mower belt
- fuel filter
- Fuel solenoid on carburetor
- Had the carburetor disassembled and cleaned.
- Replaced Fuel Evaporation System Filter

At a loss on what to try next. Maybe Spindles or PTO?

Have you checked the cylinder compression? You might need a new shot block and/or cylinder head with new valves. That is what I had to do to revive my 2007 riding mower. It made all the difference.

 

[TobyU]

With the exception of things that have distinctive sounds like blown head gaskets then diagnosis is a matter of testing in a logical order ruling things out 1 at a time starting at the most common hen working through to the more obscure.
The big problems with forums is most responders will come in with that obscure fault that had them stumped for ages because that is the one they remember .
The most common reason for single cylinder engines failing to start is mal adjusted vales
The most common reason for twins to have no power is a dead cylinder

We also need to be careful about our generalized statements. When you just made these two statements, I believe you're referring to riders with single cylinder or twin cylinder engines.

You are absolutely correct about the twins that the most common reason for no starts or no power is because it's only running on one cylinder for whatever reason.

On the singles on the riders I would say that it's not nearly as highly accurate of the percentages.
While a number of them do fail not to start because of misigested valves, a large number of them also have been pushrods, loosened rocker arm studs, and other valve train issues like slip valve guides or pop valve seats which causes no starts.

Now if we're talking about all mowers in general or push mowers, BY FAR it is not valve related at all. The most common reason for no starts on those is fuel delivery issues usually clogged up jets in the carburetor but still fuel or carburation issues and typically not enough of it.

Sometimes we make generalizations and then other people will come back and read the thread later and they may think we're referring to their specific thing when an actuality we were not.

 

[Cocoloco]

Same problem I changed a lot of engine components, it was the clutch kit worn out over 9 years of use, on my abused 42' Raptor, mine is a 2013 cutting 2.5 acres since new.

 

[TobyU]

Same problem I changed a lot of engine components, it was the clutch kit worn out over 9 years of use, on my abused 42' Raptor, mine is a 2013 cutting 2.5 acres since new.

Some of the older clutches have half inch nuts that you can adjust them you're supposed to use a feeler gauge to adjust the air gap but that doesn't look like it has one in that picture..
Also, it will save wear and tear on your PTO clutch if you will engage your blades at a slightly lower than full engine RPM speed..
Don't do it so low that it almost kills the engine and shakes a lot on the belt and pulleys but somewhere around half speed maybe a little more than half works out well.

 

[Cocoloco]

Some of the older clutches have half inch nuts that you can adjust them you're supposed to use a feeler gauge to adjust the air gap but that doesn't look like it has one in that picture..
Also, it will save wear and tear on your PTO clutch if you will engage your blades at a slightly lower than full engine RPM speed..
Don't do it so low that it almost kills the engine and shakes a lot on the belt and pulleys but somewhere around half speed maybe a little more than half works out well.

I engage the clutch at low speed then rev up when the blades are in the right cutting height. Thanks for the tip.