10 Year Old Raptor Bogging Down

[Jareds small engine repai]

replace your carb todays fuel is killer .Buy fuel from depot with no lead .This fuel can be left in machine for a year with no harm .You use reg fuel it kills when stored

 

[TRACTORTOWN]

I have a 2013 Hustler Raptor with a Kawasaki engine that bogs down under load in high grass and I have to slow down to let it recover or it acts like it’s going to die. I’ve had it happen once coming up out of a culvert without mower engaged while pulling a leaf picker upper attachment. The engine runs strong and sounds good but we have:

Replaced:
- Both ignition coils
- Both spark plugs
- Mower blades
- Air filter
- mower belt
- fuel filter
- Fuel solenoid on carburetor
- Had the carburetor disassembled and cleaned.
- Replaced Fuel Evaporation System Filter

At a loss on what to try next. Maybe Spindles or PTO?

What you describe sounds like its running on one cylinder only. Start it up and let it run for two minutes Turn it off and remove the spark plug wire on one cylinder. Try starting it right back up with the wire off. If starts turn it back off and put the plug wire back on and remove the other. Try starting again.
If it will not start and run with one plug wire off, then the cylinder with the wire off is the good cylinder. The other cylinder is not producing power.
Take that plug out and attach that plug wire to it, lay it on the metal shroud, crank the engine and watch the plug and see if it sparks.
If it does, ignition is not the problem, purchase or borrow a engine compression gauge. With all plugs out install the gauge on a cylinder, turn the key and crank it over at least 3 complete revolutions. Record the number. Then do the other cylinder, same procedure.
The numbers should be within 5psi of each other. If one had significantly lower psi or zero or almost zero you have to remove that cylinder’s valve cover and check for visual issues. If none seen you have deeper internal problems, such as a valve train problem, broken connecting rod, camshaft or head gasket failure.
Let us know what you find after your compression check.

 

[Freddie21]

I think these guys' wives kicked them out of bed. Sure we need more info, but to rag on someone new to the forum is not necessary. Vacation time anyone? Be nice, or be gone.

 

[blaster 2023]

replace your carb todays fuel is killer .Buy fuel from depot with no lead .This fuel can be left in machine for a year with no harm .You use reg fuel it kills when stored

What is a Depot to buy fuel, The place where the Tanker trucks fill up to deliver to gas stations?

 

[GeneralEclectic]

Are the blades are on upside down?

 

[g-man57]

Someone above mentioned valves... I would get a feeler gauge and make sure you valves are set to factory specs. Check YouTube - probably a tutorial there.

 

[Cajun power]

a compression test is like taking blood pressure...a leak down test is like taking an EKG....this analogy is useful when realizing just how much more investigative information can be collected when performing a leak down test on a small engine.

I would start there first. This will help you understand if there is in fact a valve lash problem...or something far more serious.

there are dozens of videos showing how to do a leak down test on a mower engine. And yes, there is a method to making sure you are at top dead center but also NOT WHEN THE ANTI COMPRESSION RELEASE CAMS have both valve popped slightly open..which is important to distinguish..The same distinction one needs to properly perform a valve clearance/lash.

if these things are above your skill set or time, just take it to a small engine shop and have them perform a leak down test. And then go from there. It's likely to be a valve clearance problem. But starting with a leak down will help you identify that, or that it might actually be something else other than a valve clearance problem.

 

[doug9694]

I have a 2013 Hustler Raptor with a Kawasaki engine that bogs down under load in high grass and I have to slow down to let it recover or it acts like it’s going to die. I’ve had it happen once coming up out of a culvert without mower engaged while pulling a leaf picker upper attachment. The engine runs strong and sounds good but we have:

Replaced:
- Both ignition coils
- Both spark plugs
- Mower blades
- Air filter
- mower belt
- fuel filter
- Fuel solenoid on carburetor
- Had the carburetor disassembled and cleaned.
- Replaced Fuel Evaporation System Filter

At a loss on what to try next. Maybe Spindles or PTO?

What about a mulching blocking plate? If used in hi grass that may cause that. Also check that the blades are not up-side-down. Sharp edge must be lowest!

 

[CWatters]

I would clean out the fuel tank, the line to the filter and any fuel switch in that path.

Twice I've had bugs get in and mess with the fuel flow. They were big enough to partially block the fuel flow at the exit from the tank and at the switch. Replacing the filter alone may not be enough.

Last time it happened the engine would idle and run fast but bog down under high load.

I think the bugs climb into my fuel can filler spout and are then washed into the tank on the mower when I fill up. Took me ages to find this as I'd already changed the filter and some fuel flowed when the line was disconnected at the carb.

 

[lowmow]

I have a 2013 Hustler Raptor with a Kawasaki engine that bogs down under load in high grass and I have to slow down to let it recover or it acts like it’s going to die. I’ve had it happen once coming up out of a culvert without mower engaged while pulling a leaf picker upper attachment. The engine runs strong and sounds good but we have:

Replaced:
- Both ignition coils
- Both spark plugs
- Mower blades
- Air filter
- mower belt
- fuel filter
- Fuel solenoid on carburetor
- Had the carburetor disassembled and cleaned.
- Replaced Fuel Evaporation System Filter

At a loss on what to try next. Maybe Spindles or PTO?

Sounds like fuel starvation.Does the carb have an idle adjustment screw? If so adjust to spec..
If it is adjusted too lean the motor will net be able to respond to a rapid load change.
Was the main jet removed and cleaned on the carb?It is in the center of the carburetor.Sometimes a mechanic will neglect to remove and clean this jet,which is very important,it supplies the main fuel to the engine.There is also an emulsion tube that must be cleaned properly. The needle and seat must be checked and cleaned or replaced if worn or partially clogged.The float height must also be adjusted as specified or the carb will not get enough fuel for full load.Spraying carburetor cleaner in and on the carb is not sufficient.It must be dissembled and properly cleaned.
If the fuel line was not replaced,replace it.Sometimes they flake off inside the lines and restrict the fuel flow.
There is also a filter in the fuel tank,sometimes built into the fuel cutoff valve.Remlove the fuel cut off valve and check this.See if you can blow freely through the valve.Sometimes the get a build up of crud inside.
Check and clean/replace as necessary.
These are all fuel related problems.
There is also the possibility of a blown head gasket,but you said you did not want to work on the engine.It is a very simple repair if needed, refer to a shop repair manual.Basically,remove carb and exhaust and the head bolts,and rocker arms.
These are all of the things I have encountered in over 50 years of experience with motors over the years.

Let me know what you find,please,so that I may provide more help if needed,and add to my knowledge base.
I am too old to know it all,but not too old to learn new things.
Good luck!