07 Dixie losses power

[sgkent]

with EFI there are usually temperature sensors that send some kind of signal to the ECU. Sometimes those sensors are grounded into the block, and they can get corrosion in them, or go bad. When they do, depending what the ECU is programed to do, it can add too much fuel or cut back on it, or even go into a limp mode. I think the first thing I would look for is a manual on the EFI system and how to troubleshoot it. Without that, you are just wasting your time looking for the cause, and it will get expensive throwing parts at it. An inductive timing light across a plug wire if it is exposed would probably fire the strobe. If you can set it close to you and pull the trigger when it is running badly you can check each plug to see if it is sparking. Personally I would have replaced the plugs if there was corrosion on them. Also inspect the engine housing to be sure it is spotless. That can also throw EFI temperature readings off. The last thing would be to look for a NOID light that fits the injector harness. They you can test to see if the injector is getting a signal. Another possibility is an injector that is sticky. Maybe add a can of fuel injector cleaner to see if that helps, whatever the MANUFACTURER recommends. I would guess Techron or some derivative of it but I don't know for sure. Sometimes with EFI systems a smoke test helps if there are any vacuum leaks. It is the plethora of sensors that will require a manual.

 

[hlw49]

You are right with the engine serial no. it is a 2006. But first off if you suspect the spark plugs why would you try and clean them just replace them. Next read the blink codes. Beside the ignition switch there is a small light that lights up while the engine is running. To read the codes you turn the ign. switch on and off three times and leave it on the third time and it will blink a code. The trick to it is 10 flashes is 0. So say you have a code 0031 you would have 10 flashes a one second pause 10 flashes and a one second pause 3 flashes a one second pause and 1 flash. If you have multiple codes you would have a 3 second delay after the first code and them the next code. After it has flashed all the codes it will flash a code 61. This is telling you it has flashed all the codes or if it flashes 61 first it has no stored codes to read Those things did not give much trouble as long a no one messed with them and screwed things up. The biggest problem with them was the O2 sensor and that was rare. They run in open loop until the engine warms up them go to closed loop mode and that is where they run. That is unless you have a problem and then they will run in limp mode which is half throttle and it is only to get you back to the house or garage. Not to finish mowing the yard. By the way code 0031 is an O2 sensor code. Try unplugging the O2 sensor and see if it clears up. If so it is the O2 sensor. Here is a list of the codes does not list them like it should so I put a / between codes

Diagnostic Fault Code Summary Fault Code Connection or Failure Description 0031 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Low Voltage 0032 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Voltage/ 0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP or TMAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage or Open / 0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP or TMAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage / 0112 Intake Air Temperature (IAT or TMAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage / 0113 Intake Air Temperature (IAT or TMAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage or Open / 0117 Coolant/Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Voltage / 0118 Coolant/Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit High Voltage or Open / 0122 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Low Voltage or Open / 0123 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit High Voltage / 0131 Oxygen Sensor 1 Circuit Low Voltage, or Open / 0132 Oxygen Sensor 1 Circuit High Voltage / 0171 Maximum Adaptation Limit Exceeded / 0172 Minimum Adaptation Limit Exceeded / 0174 Lean Fuel Condition at High Load (Open Loop) / 0201 Injector 1 Circuit Malfunction / 0202 Injector 2 Circuit Malfunction Hope this helps.

 

[Yuke]

whats the actual male of the engine.. take a photo of the model no.and post it here...

It is a Kohler engine

 

[Yuke]

You are right with the engine serial no. it is a 2006. But first off if you suspect the spark plugs why would you try and clean them just replace them. Next read the blink codes. Beside the ignition switch there is a small light that lights up while the engine is running. To read the codes you turn the ign. switch on and off three times and leave it on the third time and it will blink a code. The trick to it is 10 flashes is 0. So say you have a code 0031 you would have 10 flashes a one second pause 10 flashes and a one second pause 3 flashes a one second pause and 1 flash. If you have multiple codes you would have a 3 second delay after the first code and them the next code. After it has flashed all the codes it will flash a code 61. This is telling you it has flashed all the codes or if it flashes 61 first it has no stored codes to read Those things did not give much trouble as long a no one messed with them and screwed things up. The biggest problem with them was the O2 sensor and that was rare. They run in open loop until the engine warms up them go to closed loop mode and that is where they run. That is unless you have a problem and then they will run in limp mode which is half throttle and it is only to get you back to the house or garage. Not to finish mowing the yard. By the way code 0031 is an O2 sensor code. Try unplugging the O2 sensor and see if it clears up. If so it is the O2 sensor. Here is a list of the codes does not list them like it should but I have double spaced between codes.

Diagnostic Fault Code Summary Fault Code Connection or Failure Description 0031 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Low Voltage 0032 Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit High Voltage 0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP or TMAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage or Open 0108 Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP or TMAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage 0112 Intake Air Temperature (IAT or TMAP) Sensor Circuit Low Voltage 0113 Intake Air Temperature (IAT or TMAP) Sensor Circuit High Voltage or Open 0117 Coolant/Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Low Voltage 0118 Coolant/Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit High Voltage or Open 0122 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Low Voltage or Open 0123 Throttle Position Sensor Circuit High Voltage 0131 Oxygen Sensor 1 Circuit Low Voltage, or Open 0132 Oxygen Sensor 1 Circuit High Voltage 0171 Maximum Adaptation Limit Exceeded 0172 Minimum Adaptation Limit Exceeded 0174 Lean Fuel Condition at High Load (Open Loop) 0201 Injector 1 Circuit Malfunction 0202 Injector 2 Circuit Malfunction Hope this helps.

Thank-you for all that information HLW I will try to see if it has any codes. Never knew there was a way to read codes or that it had an ECM if I knew that I would have never bought it. I like old stuff that never breaks. Never knew that just dirt build up on an engine could put you in limp mode which is what I think it's doing. Maybe it could be as simple as washing the motor would cure it ?

 

[StarTech]

The engine # is ( 3611516501). I know the mower was made in 10/06 and sold in spring of 07. The model mower is XWF2700-60 Quad Loop . I say it's an EFI electronic fuel injected motor because I do not see a carb on it. I am leaning towards a coil going out because of the symptoms. Seems to start acting up after it warms up about 30 min. into cutting and the more strain or full cut or higher grass. It usually slows to about 1/2 throttle then speeds up to full throttle but does not hold 30 seconds then slows back down again. I hate to cut grass at 1/2 throttle or 1600 rpm. as I know that's hard on the engine. So far I have changed the fuel filter, cleaned air filter and tried no air filter momentarily, cleaned both spark plugs on one the tip was corroded cleaned that and pulled 1 spark plug at a time when running and each had an effect on engine speed so I think both cyls. are firing. Problem seems to arise when mower is at operating temp. and under load. It got so bad last time cutting the mower stopped problem seems to be getting worse with every use. I think I would like to get either a spark plug or a coil checker under load tester but do not know what brand is good.

Well the engine's serial number posted comes comes back as a carbureted engine. (Single Barrel Carburetor PN 24 853 92-S superseded to 24 853 317-S)

I just recently had to replace one of these carbs due to it running extremely rich under heavy loads. But I think that was cause by the previous tech that so called repaired the Exmark.

And yes an ignition coil be failing after it get heat soaked.

 

[Yuke]

Star Tech you are right the engine is not EFI I think I do see a carb buried in there. I tried to take a picture of it and post it and it will not let me says file is too big for server how do I post the picture on here?

 

[slomo]

Star Tech you are right the engine is not EFI I think I do see a carb buried in there. I tried to take a picture of it and post it and it will not let me says file is too big for server how do I post the picture on here?

What did it say when you tried? Picture is too large? Crop it or reduce file size then repost.

More pictures the better. Already a huge confusion on what the engine actually was. On page 2 now and haven't started fixing anything yet.

 

[Yuke]

What did it say when you tried? Picture is too large? Crop it or reduce file size then repost.

More pictures the better. Already a huge confusion on what the engine actually was. On page 2 now and haven't started fixing anything yet.

What did it say when you tried? Picture is too large? Crop it or reduce file size then repost.

More pictures the better. Already a huge confusion on what the engine actually was. On page 2 now and haven't started fixing anything yet.

 

[Yuke]

Here is a shot from other side.

 

[slomo]

Same shots. File name is the same also.