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Looks to me like you have an Ariens 01127300 sheave and need an Ariens 07217100 belt. Sheave may no longer be available. I would take the model and serial numbers to an Ariens dealer or good repair shop, they should ne able to identify them for you.

Congratulations!!! Sometimes we have to do this to just make sure we can still do it. Got to keep the brain active. I myself probably get more out of solving that kind of problem than actually fixing the equipment.

Check the area where the brake pedal is attached to that cross shaft. I’m betting something is wrong somewhere along that shaft. Bent rod, cracked weld, twisted shaft, etc.

Unless someone has replaced the rod or spring I doubt either are too long. Did you check to see if that slotted bracket is properly welded to the shaft? The rod should be fully back in the slot when the brake is off.

You will have to find an assistant and do what the techs have to do when they get into this position. With the unit jacked up like you have it, you will have to crawl under the unit and watch what happens while your assistant applies and releases the brake pedal. What you are looking for is...

I’m sorry, but I can’t understand how the rod can be loose if the spring iis stretched tight. The rod puts the tension on the spring. Push brake pedal down, rod is pulled forward tightening the spring, pulling the brake arm.

If you set the parking brake, is the spring tight? If not the spring has stretched. Not uncommon on an eleven year old unit. If it is tight your brake pads are probably worn out. You might try tightening the nut on the brake assembly. Here is a parts breakdown showing where the assembly is...

Do you possibly have the numbers off the Agway, so we can possibly cross check against the tractor numbers.

On the engine the numbers will probably be on one of the valve covers. On the tractor the numbers will probably be on the chassis behind the left rear wheel.

It would be a lot easier to help you if you would post model and serial numbers for both the engine and tractor. Read Christmas Wish thread.

More than once I’ve gotten JD belts which were not the same length as what they have listed for that belt number. I have gotten to the point where all belts are measured before installation. I’m wondering if the OP has the tensioner pulley is positioned on the wrong side of the belt. This can...

If that filter has been in for more than a year, I would say normal use. It is recommended that filters be changed every year.

LV195 is an L-head engine, the last time I worked on one.

Now Star, you know his magic wand is this forum, except you must say Al-Ec-Ka-Zam. You have a Happy Holidays also from the Elf.

Setting valve clearance is not that easy on an L-head engine. Instructions are in the MANUAL I posted.

Yes.

Snowblower belt is John Deere #M158130 and should be 149” long. Here is a manual for your blower. http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMM177515_19/toc.html

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Provide us with the model and spec number for your Tecumseh engine. That way we can tell you the exact part number you need. I’m wondering why he is selling so cheap, those carbs are in demand and as you have found not cheap. My warning to you, penny wise pound foolish.

From personal experience, “DO NOT” use aftermarket belts on JD equipment or accessories. To the OP, please provide us with the tractor and blower model numbers from the ID tags. That way we will be able to see exactly which pieces you have and provide the correct part numbers and possibly manuals.

I’m also wondering if you really got an OEM carb, especially if you purchased it off FleaBay or Scamazon. Heard of people throwing crap carbs into to OEM box’s. Might not even be the correct one, just one that the seller says is compatible and will work.

Seen this more than once, willing to bet your seller had that carb sitting around for a few years and the float needle seat has dried out. This is what I would do, replace the float needle and seat. Here is the procedure I use. Part number is 631021B. Needle and seat replacement. Remove the...

See if this video helps. If it doesn’t post the blower model number off the ID tag.

So what you are now telling us is that there are many things going on with this engone, but you’ll only give us pieces of info a little at a time. My time here is now ending as I’ve never been a fan of those who think we are here to hold their hand, but give us bad info. You started this...

A bore scope??? Why? The price of a head gasket is far cheaper and will give you more info than a bore scope. The OP doesn’t even know what he’s looking for.

You are way over thinking this. Don’t even need to remove the engine from the equipment. To check for scoring all you need to do is remove the head and look at the cylinder. A good mechanic can quickly ( in 15 seconds ) identify a cylinder which has been damaged. You only need to be able to...

At 100’ difference, probably not. At 1000’ maybe a little.

This manual should help you out. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Tecumseh-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/TECUMSEH-SERVICE--REPAIR-MANUAL-3HP-TO-11HP-4-CYCLE-L-HEAD-FLAT-HEAD-ENGINES-692509.pdf

I should have added that’s when the carb is tipped upside down.

Set the float so it is slightly lower on the side opposite the float pin.

If it is brand new have the dealer fix under warranty. You said that the choke is fully closed, but did you visually check that it is closing all the way?

When you cleaned the carb, did you remove the idle jet, under the black plastic cap, and make sure it was open in both directions? Also, did you replace the float needle and seat, part 631021 and rest the float level slightly rich?

With an engine that old and not running, the first thing I would do is to remove the carb and rebuild it with a new float needle and seat.

Don’t understand why a dealer would not have that part. Might be a problem for some, but a good Toro dealer can use a little imagination to solve that problem. Don’t know why they wouldn’t have it, but as I’ve said before, the boneyard is your friend. I’ve got no problem using a used part, as...

Why not go to an authorized Toro repair shop and pay $1.50 each? Support your locals.

Very uncommon to find them worm. Only found worn pawls once or twice. When I did I just went to one of my bone yards and found a used starter to get them from.

I’ll bet they say replace thr starter.

More that likely the starter pawls are either worn or gummed out. Depending on your expertise and experience they can be cleaned or replaced.

See if one of the diagrams this site will help you out. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/26909/level/2/snp/MjQxNjk3OkNIQVBURVJbMTA2MTojQlVTSU5FU1NfUkVHSU9OLDc4NTI6I0NBVEFMT0csMjY5MDk6RVFVSVBNRU5UXQ%3D%3D

If it came to me that way I would spray a lot of PBlaster into the cylinder, stand it on end with the spark plug up, making sure liquid gets to all sides of the piston. When I’m sure set it down and wait for 2 days for the PBplaster to do its job. Now I would put a 5/8” six point socket on my...

That wire probably has no part of the non starting problem. You need to find out whether it has spark and/or fuel. Get an inline spark tester to check for spark. If you have spark, spray a small amount of carb cleaner into the cylinder and see if you can get it to pop. Let us know what you find.

Next time it happens check for spark. No spark means you have a coil which either opens or shorts when it gets hot. Time to replace coil.

Yes, you must remove from below, as the gear is part of the shaft.

Most times they are worn to the point that if you don’t replace both at the same time you’re being penny wise pound foolish. I would also replace both bushings. Page 34 of this manual will show you the parts, with part numbers. https://www.thepowerportal.com/ipls/ipl.htm?md=1693601~_IPLURL_LO.pdf

I grind them at a 30 degree angle.

What would you call a mechanic who snips off plastic plungers? A fool, nin-***-poop, dumb, crook, mentally challenged, lazy, stupid, etc. Take your pick, these guys should have their monkey wrench taken away, they’re dangerous.

I’m fairly sure that the Kohler part number for that Nikki carb is 22-757-04. Star, would you double check this for me? Before you go purchasing any parts I would confront that mechanic about his repair. He should be the person paying for the repairs. I’m not sure he will fess up to his...

The BOS system you eliminated uses a plastic belt guard. 107-7488

I doubt that cover will work on a unit set up for a BOS system. Why not just used the plastic guard you removed?

If you want to have gaskets which will probably dry out before you use them, but multiple gaskets. Just a waste of money, unless you service at least two carbs a week. Penny wise, pound foolish.