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Just curious. Is that a 12 Cu in Briggs motor?

Aha. Then need to check for polarity of the two magnets, plus minus 1st magnet to plus minus 2nd magnet if the magnets are actually made that way. Easy to put them back in wrong. Just use a small magnet to check them. edit. Went out and checked a flywheel off a HH70, each magnet is full...

I'd sure think that if the magnets were glued in wrong the primary voltage would be weak. But are these just charging magnets inside or the actual ignition primary magnets?

Is this a brake that you push down and then lock it with a knob on the dash? Does the brake pedal come back up?

This is what keeps me away from high voltage battery seasonal equipment. Battery reliability and cost. I like the concept though.

There are magnets under that flywheel that maybe came loose and jammed under there, locked the motor and the flywheel inertia created the mess. Just guessing.

I remember back in the day the Suzuki motors had roller bearings everywhere, well built and run forever.

Sure looks like it, and the recoil starter does have what looks like 2 cycle on it.

Were you getting a good blue spark across the plug gap?

Vaporizing the gas I'd guess. Pretty common with today's summer blended fuels I suppose. Don't know if there's a solution for that if that is what is happening. Might let it run easy for a minute before shut down and after starting to cool it off.

People on HGTV pay a fortune for "landscaping" like that. Add some running water and a couple big rocks and you could be on TV.

LOL. Great minds think alike?

Double check the belt routing. There are a couple things under there that keep the belt from falling off the pulleys when the clutch/brake is pushed in and it's easy to get the belt on the wrong side of one of those. Don't ask how I know, duhhh.

Ethanol, clean fuel, dirty business. Had a huge ethanol plant down on the river some years ago, big outfit. ADM bought the place, shut it down, bulldozed the whole place. Controlling the market, owning the government.

Only good product I've used was the old Scotts weed and feed. I see now they have replaced it with their Turfbuilder stuff. Probably a friendly weakened product that doesn't work worth crap like all the other stuff on the market, but still triple priced. I've pretty much given up on the whole...

How many people work in your shop? And sounds like a management nightmare to me, but my management skills are right at 0 (zero).

I suspect this is the actual problem: Transmission Kanzaki K46 Type belt-driven hydrostatic Gears infinite forward and reverse Oil change sealed unit, service not recommended Might do some searching on the net for info about this drive unit. Sure not suited for commercial use, or...

As that old saying goes, there are no rejects in Chinese factories. Always a good thing to watch when ordering something is a free return if defective.

Has this machine been sitting for a long period?

I'd take a look at the clutch, see if there's a manufacturer's number, google it, find the OE part for much less, maybe. Also, just me, I'd take a good look and see if the bearing can be accessed and replaced. Most "stuff" is generally designed to use standardized parts, saves money, and...

But that tire looks like an idea whose time has not come. Just the design looks bad to me.

I suppose to some extent the carbon buildup insulates the head and reduces heat transfer out of the upper block. Wouldn't hurt to clean that off now and then and get a bit better cooling. Along with a good cleaning of the cooling fins around the cylinder.

Made in China. And note the continuous rating is about 8000 watts. I'd look at a Generac before buying anything.

I'm late to the party, but did you ever pull the shrouds and clean out the cooling fins etc? I'm thinking overheating?

That would sure do it I'd think. Some of the newer mowers have pressed/powdered metal gears in the final drive, bad application in my book but I guess it's cheap and lasts a while even so. I'd try to find and replace both side gears.

Seems like those bigger motors have a lot of problems with coils, mine did too. I got a Chinesium coil for mine and had to do some adaptation to get it mounted up, but works fine so far.

I have a similar chipper and it does have a speed control on the motor. I usually start it up and let it run at mid speed for a minute or so, then wide open which is singing pretty good. Double check yours for a small lever to adjust that throttle.

But they sure are pretty!

The aluminum deck push mowers that run are probably worth 80 to 100 dollars if in decent looking condition. All those do look decent actually. Pretty neat find there too. The self propelled models usually have problems in some way and might be worth something for parts to a LB fan.

But then I'd think with all that grass floating around under there the extra cutting edge might chop it up a bit finer instead of just battering it around?

Welded on blades. That's a new one. Hate to ask, but how much is a 7 year old rider worth anyway?

Just gave their top dogs big bonuses so the writing was on the wall. Now to gouge the pension plans, devalue their stock to zero, sell off real estate to connected investors and lease the properties back, and reissue new stock with huge options to the execs who will be retiring and cashing in...

Does the tractor have a manual choke for starting? Might give it a half choke when engaging that clutch for the first time.

The click would tell me that the key switch is probably ok. If all the wiring looks good with clean connecors I'd get a new solenoid or a starter

That'd be two or three tanks of gas in my walk behinds. Pretty good performance with that mower!

Is the shift problem with the engine running or off? If off can you rock the mower back and forth and then shift it?

Sometimes the engine ID code numbers will pin it down pretty close. Not sure where those numbers are on that older model.

I'm kind of surprised to see lube still on the actual gear teeth in that old gearbox. There was some flowing lube in it rather than just dried up displaced grease.

Are these from a phone camera? I usually have to download to the computer, to paint, reduce size about 40%, then up load. Still get a really good picture.

If someone in management sees this a certain customer service rep. just got fired.

Can't believe that a gear box is actually lubed with stiff grease. I'm with you on the change of lube. Looks like a pretty heavy duty differential for a mower though. As above, clean it good first.

Washing the machine, got it wet? Try pulling back on the clutch/brake pedal with your toes, adds some pressure to the belt drive.

Duraforce motor. Like to get rid of this blade clutch but I'm wondering if the shaft is a special design with this deal? Shorter or splined maybe? Any tips for removal? Thanks.

It's a miracle I tell ya!

About a hundred of those on EBay for 10 or 12 dollars. Compare pictures and check the fitment numbers. Pretty generic carb used on millions of B&S motors.

Just did here. Oh well.

With the age of that hydro and the higher service rating it may have better internals than the disposable units produced today. An oil change might be all that's needed to insure it's around for a good long while.

Nice looking work on the hydro changeover. Is that a Reese hitch on the back? Going for some heavy duty work there?

Letting the crank case gases back into the intake will give a pretty rich mixture on these, and worn carb throttle shaft will allow this too with the enrichment port set up for wide open throttle. I'd change those reed valves first off.

I've had several of both types and if you REALLY need a self propelled mower you need the rear wheel drive. I'm with Mowermike on this one, the lightweight push mower for an average sized city level yard is probably the way to go.