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Have you seen the newest generation of 80cc backpack blowers? The Echo-8010 and Stihl BR800 are game changers. My Echo is loud as hell, thirsty as hell, heavy and yet I love it. Having total control of a 200+ mph 1,000+ cfm air stream is awesome!!!!

You can buy a bigger blower, but whether you can comfortably operate it depends on your size, overall health and fitness level. The Echo PB-8010 and the Stihl BR800 are monsters that make quick work of leaves. If you have long distances to move them you can load them onto a tarp and drag them...

https://www.bobcatturf.com/products/zero-turn-riding/xrz-pro/

I just blow most of the leaves to the woods with a backpack blower and mulch up and/or bag the rest on most of the properties I maintain. Most of them have a wooded buffer between the lots that I disperse them into. Every situation is different though.

At least 2...

So the spring on the deck that tensions the belt? Something doesn't seem right for sure. Does it happen while mowing or when engaging the blades?

Ok, sorry missed that. I run Husqvarna trimmers for my lawn care business. I had one of those trimmers and it's a low-end model that don't tend to be very long-lived. They're kind of heavy and clumsy for the power they provide as well. I gave mine to my son for the small lawn at his apartment...

Are you still running it with no fuel filter? You need to make sure the fuel line is submerged in gasoline at all times and the filter weights it down.

I suggest that you look into the no-till gardening method or just use a spade. That isn't a very large area and it could be hand dug a little at a time. Roto-tilling a garden has a lot of draw-backs and there's a ton of info on the internet about the alternatives.

Can you please elaborate on the symptoms you're experiencing? You're not giving us very much to go on.

I have an Exmark walk behind with over 3500 hours on it with sealed spindle bearings with no failures to date. Just saying that sealed spindle bearings can be long-lived.

You can still get Kawasaki engines on Toro and Exmark machines. I believe they're available on all of the Exmark machines, but you'll have to step up to the X series models. Perhaps geelee can confirm or dispute that?

In that case, I concur with Rivets. A bladed edger for concrete edges is the way to go, but not something you'd want to do with asphalt. Edging well with a string trimmer requires a lot of practice and developed skills. With this package you get both a trimmer and edger and the ability to add...

What's the nature of the edging you're wanting to do? Turf/flower bed edge, asphalt, concrete, other?

It's not uncommon for a new battery to require charging. Have you checked the voltage on it? It should be at least 12.5V.

Did the oil smell like gas? Could be thin due to gas in crankcase from the carb probs?

Probably has a mulching blade on it. Swap it out for the high lift blade if so.

So there's no fuel filter on the line? Is the fuel line floating?

Governor arm hung up or spring in wrong place? Why is the fuel pump bypassed.

Yeah but things like that that have to be adjusted just so to work properly can be a pain in the arse over the life of a machine. My tolerance for accidentally dropping the deck into the dirt is zero.

How would you like a mower that when you go over a high spot it causes the deck to drop into the dirt? They blame it on improper adjustment but I blame it on poor design. Also quite a few cut quality issues, at least at first. I don't know if they've been resolved. With that said, they have some...

If it's stalling your mower you're trying to take off too much or going too fast. Also wondering if you're mulching or discharging. Keep the blade sharp regardless.

Just FYI as far as why - the blade supplements the weight of the freewheel - many push mowers have lightweight flywheels that aren't sufficient without the blade. For some mowers with a clutch to engage the blades it won't matter, as they have heavier flywheels. Maybe one of the techs here can...

You need to put a blade on it to properly test its running condition.

If it's whinning badly the damage is already done. With that said, you would need to remove the transaxle to change the fluid. Doing so may prolong its life by removing any abrasive wear debris, but it's not going to "fix" it.

Yup, just adding that it is very important to disengage the transmission before pushing/towing to prevent damage.

You're welcome. So the machine is acting jerking and hard to control during intricate maneuvering, almost like you're a novice and don't know how to operate it smoothly? That is indeed the typical symptom of a failed damper.

There's one on each side of a zero-turn mower and when they fail it can cause it to operate quite erratically. It's simple to change them. They look like the piston that keeps the rear hatch or window of a hatchback car/van open. Yes, change both.

Welcome. There's quite a bit on this site about the Raptors and their issues. I suggest that you do a search. You may find some solutions to your issues.

I recommend getting undyed mulch made from forest products rather than the dyed stuff which is often made from construction and demolition wastes. They dye it and grind it fine for a reason - it's junk! Cedar bark mulch is my favorite because it has natural insect repelling qualities.

I won't disagree but I've got so many things to do that just getting the tires holding air/fluid and not having to buy new rims makes me happy. There are 2 coats of primer and 2 of topcoat on them. The front grill was pretty rusty at the bottom too - common problem with them. That got painted...

Simple solution - put huge engines on your power equipment. They're talking about banning small-engine machines, right?

Wheels are back on. The tire dealer decided to take a different direction and install new tubes and washer fluid after seeing that the rim interiors were in good shape. The problem is that one of them is weeping a little, sigh. It's just a drop or 2 a day. They bent one a little too. I think...

Now that you know what the issue is, fix it. :)

In my experience the air foil on the G5 and G6 blades fails before the edge portion wears out.

They're single rears. Must be an optical illusion.

Older post I know but the nail on the wall balancing method is inadequate. You can get yourself a cone balancer for a few dollars. They're not great but much better...

Even when insured most don't file a claim for a broken window unless it's really pricey. It's usually just written off as the cost of doing business. Having a claims history isn't something you want.

Here we go. Resized a couple of photos of the machine and the worst rim. It needs a little TLC. It used to be covered by a tent but it's been out in the open for years now and I haven't really kept up with service. It has lichens growing on it. Going to get a new seat and seat springs too.

Freezing is an issue. They're tubed now but the valve stems are shot I'm sure. retapping and replacing the cores worked last time but was temporary and at the expense of the rims. They need protection to at least zero degrees F. I'm leaving it all up to them. I don't used this machine much...

P.S. - The machine is 4wd and I'm usually on solid ground so traction isn't usually an issue even sporting turf tires.

Update: 289 hours on my 8010T and all is still good. I have somewhat squashed the metal ring on the end of the tube several times but it's pretty easy to get back to round with just hand pressure. The tube handle kept sliding no matter how hard I cranked the thumb knob up so I just added a...

Personally I'd evaluate the deck first. If the deck is bent/warped it will cut like crap. If the deck is crap it doesn't matter much if it drives unless you're just going to pull a cart with it or something.

We'll see. Rim Guard beet juice and windshield washer fluid as ballast were also considered. I just need a tire that doesn't leak and enough ballast to offset the front loader carrying wood mulch, compost and firewood. I've usually got either the backhoe or York rake on the back and I can...

My JD 855 compact utility tractor came with calcium chloride loaded in the rear tires for ballast. This is the 2nd time I've had to address leaks due to the valve cores rotting out. The rims are pretty rusty now too. I considered getting new tires and rims and adding a non-corrosive liquid...

You can try "Goop" adhesive, Shoe Goo or tent seam sealer. But I fear that even though they're flexible it will fail on something that is constantly flexing. It all depends on what type of failure you've had and exactly where.

There's a Report feature on the lower left of posts. You can report it to an admin/moderator and ask that it be deleted. I won't be hurt if this reply gets deleted. :)

A lot of people take the covers off to make it easier to blow debris out and to prevent friction fires.

How fast is it cranking? I'd charge the battery. It's possible it's just not cranking fast enough to fire due to voltage loss of the battery during storage.

I landed a 522xi with the 22 Kohler Command Pro I believe and 60 inch deck. It's a pretty nice machine. Power steering, hydraulic deck lift. 710 hours. It's been sitting for a couple years and was fully operational when it was parked. The owner moved and hired a pro (me) to mow his new...