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I haven't seen the high/low transaxle setup in years. The late 90's, early 00's garden tractors from MTD (Cub Cadet, Yardman) had that setup. They referred to it as the 14 speed. You had the high/low differential with a 7 speed CVT selector. So basically translated to a 14 forward 2 reverse.

Nobody would care if it is bypassed or not, but do keep in mind that the way the law is written, Joe Schmoe can also be on the hook for fines. The chances of that happening are almost nil, because they will focus more on the OEM, their distributors and dealers not the end user.

Change the oil before running again. Gas in the oil will cause engine damage because it effects lubrication, but the fumes that are released and drawn through the breather system are drawn directly into the engine and will cause a rich running issue, which you are describing.

Your symptoms normally point to a choke that isn't closing all the way. Check and make sure the choke is actually fully closed when starting cold.

I have come across a couple cases while working on LCT on Husqvarna were the authorized LCT distributor can't sell the part to an authorized LCT dealer, and have to purchase from Husqvarna only.

Not a common issue but I have had issues with Amazon Kohler carbs with faulty fuel solenoids. You maybe able to use the solenoid off of your old carb. If it doesn't click need to check to make sure there is battery voltage getting to the solenoid. Have seen a few key switches energize the...

Is the fuel solenoid on the bottom of the carb clicking or can you feel it click when the key is turns on and off. I am thinking there is an issue with the afterfire solenoid on your new carb.

LCT kind of falls under the same type of agreement that Kawasaki and JD have with their engines when it comes to Husqvarna and Ariens. You can find part numbers under the LCT diagrams, but in some cases trying to order them has a note attached to see Husqvarna or see Ariens. LCT warranty and...

Have you checked the oil to make sure the crankcase isn't full of gas if the carb is flooding that bad. Also LCT is part of Lauson/Tecumseh. So parts are basically Tecumseh parts, but Ariens and Husqvarna use LCT engines but claim they are an Ariens or Husqvarna engine and parts maybe only...

Thanks for letting us know what the solution was and it was that simple.

Here is a parts diagram for your engine https://www.partstree.com/models/104m02-0216-h5-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine I would start with removing any covers that restrict access to the top of the carb, and check to make sure that a sudden joit didn't jam the throttle control on the...

So Bradford Blackmon, a democrat, is now a right winger. Sounds like more leftist antics to blame the right.

Service only has its limits as far as carrying capacity. You maybe topped out at this point for your area. Need wholegoods retail sales to drive up revenue past a certain point that you may have reached.

My first thought would be to make sure the choke is actually closing all the way. Doesn't take much gap to prevent start in some cases. And even if the fuel was leaking back into the lines, the carb should still be full, and even if it was draining back a few engine revolutions should refill...

Poulan Pro went to a 50:1 mix about 3 years ago. Don't know exactly when the change took place but all the new items come with a bottle of 50:1 mix in the box. The Poulan Pro canned gas mentions both the 40:1 and 50:1 on the can.

The problem is the left doesn't like the right playing by the lefts rules. Turn about is fair play at this point. Maybe we are tired of trying to play nice and then getting shafted in compromises.

Reference item 335 in this diagram. Be aware that snow engines don't use an air filter. That have a cover over the carb to introduce heated air from the muffler to help prevent icing. https://www.partstree.com/models/oh195sa-72550g-tecumseh-engine/engine-parts-list-ohsk5xa-0/

The voltage will drop as the engine comes to a stop. Nothing can be done about that. In your first video it appears that the plunger is retracting after a few seconds even with power still applied. Other than that everything looks normal.

It came from a picture on the other thread by this OP https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/b-s-12hp-fuel-delivery-issue.78791/

The only way to know for sure is to tear it down and have a look see. You can speculate about what damage there maybe internally, but without opening it up you will not know, and there is potential that the broken parts could cause more damage if continued to be run.

Skippy, Correct. Briggs uses a restrictor plate in the intake to do the same things on some of there engines. Start your engine and go to full throttle with no load, and the throttle plate will be closed down to the point that is it just slightly wider than the idle position. Load...

Skippy correct. But here is the thing. Engine rpm is maintained by the governor at a set speed. As the engine load increases causes a drop in engine rpm. The governor spring overcomes that rpm drop to return the engine to the set rpm. Now as the engine load keeps increasing it keeps...

The screw limited the throttle butterfly to only open halfway. So the governor was set for the throttle butterfly to only open 50% not the full straight open 100%. And if not reset the governor couldn't take advantage of the full movement of the throttle butterfly plate since the governor gear...

Looks like you are missing some parts of the model number. I am going to guess and say 123K02-0258-E1 And with the ground wire disconnected from the coil and no spark is the test for the coil. No spark replace coil. Resistance readings are meaningless due to the fact you cannot property...

Some of the newer Briggs engines have the model number info etched into the side of the block opposite the carb side. Can be hard to see or read sometimes due to paint. Also some of the newer engines will have that info on a plate facing the front of the engine next to the carb.

This is posted in the Front porch which is for off topic discussions So doesn't have to be mower or equipment related.

Didn't have to replace the screw just remove it The catch is you also had to reset te static governor setting and if the engine had a sudden unplanned disassembly it also voided the warranty if removed. We referred to that as the $130 screw because that was the difference in price between...

.004-006 intake and exhaust

That engine uses the 32 853 12-S carb. Not cheap so I would start with a carb rebuild, but also need to check to make sure there aren't other things going on also. Compression, valve clearances, spark. Also I would pull the blower housing and check the part numbers on the ignition modules...

From the picture I would say he is already .010 or .25 mm over and will need .020 or .50mm to clean up.

I mistyped. It should of be 946-04670. I have corrected my previous post

1-2 cylinder air cooled engine will have a life expectancy of 1000-2000 hours. Water cooled 2 cylinder gas like some Kawasaki can be in the 2-3K hours. Multicylinder engines like a 3 cylinder Kubota gas can go 3-5K hours. And diesels can be in the 4-10K hour range.

From the MTD official dealer site it appears that the 946-04670(A)(B) wasn't used on any models post 2013

Belt slipping due to the extra torque needed to counteract the drives trying to do different things.

You said it has a new spark plug. But is it actually producing spark. Remove the spark plug and connect it to the wire and then ground the spark threads to the engine block and crank to check for spark. If that pans out then reinstall and try putting gas into the carb intake and crank to see...

The solenoid gets is power to block the carb jet with the exciter voltage when the switch is turned off. There is no power supplied by the battery or the charge system to close the valve. So the engine has to be running for it to work, which can't be done with it removed from the carb...

You really can't tell most of the time if they are good or bad by looking. To do it right you need a small hand pump to pressurize the fuel inlet with the carb upside down, Needs to hold like 5 psi for 5 minutes. I suggestion would be to install a carb repair kit, but another option is...

The float valve is inside of the carb. It works in combination with the float to stop the fuel from overfilling the carb bowl and flooding the engine.

That is not a Carlisle tire problem. That is a doesn't matter what brand of mower tire they all get cracks and leak in strange patterns, Even an outline of the letters. Some of the tires I have been seeing the last couple years have insides that looks like a net with all the string strands...

Because the volume of the tire didn't change. The bottom of the tire deflected but the rest of the tire could grow in size to compensate.

That would most likely a float valve not sealing allowing gas to overflow the carb. But could also be a fuel pump leaking depending on the setup. Either way you also need to check the oil level and to confirm the crankcase isn't also full of gas.

I suspect that part of the issue is the afterfire solenoid on the bottom of the carb isn't working correctly. Either a solenoid issue or the control circuit that actuates it isn't working correctly. On generators, the afterfire solenoid is normally open and then is closed by the generator...

The 1770455 rim uses the 734-04163A tire which is a 13x5x6 tire But your 15003 uses a 4.80/4.00x8 tire and rim assembly And the 1770455 rim is a different setup than your existing tire wheel assembly

Can be done with different carb jetting, or other carb changes, or changes in ignition. Let me describe another series of engine that I am more familiar with. The Kohler CV18-20-22 The CV18 has a screw in the carb that limits the throttle butterfly to open ony 50%. You still get 3600...

That picture reminds me of another person that claimed there was no model number on his engine, and to prove it posted a perfect crystal clear picture of the model number. And he still didn't realize that he had taken a picture of and posted the model number.

It may be my imagination but it looks like you second picture has numbers on that muffler shield. I can make out what looks like 126T0 and a 62 in the corner of the lighter area of rust and looks like a 0 to the left of your thumb.

Look at the metal cover. There is a metal flange that sticks out over the muffler. the model info is on that flat flange. You can see part of the model number sticking out from under the plastic cover in Star's picture. Looks like 128 of 12B

697887 doesn't appear to be a valid number possibly 698778

Like Star said. The OEM's won't supply even their dealer techs with needed info sometimes. MTD has been known to have incorrect part numbers listed on the diagrams, and I have even seen part numbers that are showing NLA on products for the current model year. And they don't ever go back and...

Post the model number information from the engine tag so we know what engine you have. And when you say doesn't turn over do you mean cranks but not start or not do anything.