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Unplug the pigtail and use a jumper straight to the starter solenoid small terminal , maybe your pigtail connection is corroded

I would test the ignition switch without it connected to anything, use an ohm meter or use jumper with 12volts to the correct terminal on the switch , turn to on position and verify power, then start position and watch your test light , I've seen bad ignition switches straight out of the box. If...

Maybe post a pic or two, Kubota's are very hard to work on I find , seems like they're built so you have to take them to the dealership

No they lower the prices to get you to get the mower , now you have to buy the replacement batteries from them and they'll get their money back and then some

Someone brought me a Greeworks mower,,,,,,,battery checked ok, motor was Fried,,,,So sick of these Green new deal people

If it runs out completely you'll need to choke to restart , nothing too unusual about that but make sure your choke is working

Hard to imagine the PTO would have anything to do with it but guess anything is possible. As mentioned above, there could be a voltage problem present all the time but un noticable while not under load. You may pull the plugs and see if they're both burning clean ( white looking ) if one is more...

Governor only regulates the speed , it has to be running well enough for the governor to respond , if it will not run smoothly there is still a carburator / fuel problem I usually find some small debris or rust particle in the main jet when they run like this

Clean it again and check all the fuel supply side lines , filter ,screens , vent on tank etc.

Your PTO clutch is not in play at start up, there are safeties involved to keep it from even spinning over if the clutch is engaged

Never seen an oil cooler on any small gas engine

Well this is a new one to me , never ran across this setup but quite sure someone on this site has, If it were me I'd put it back together and test for fire , no down side for trying at this point

Take some pics

Even new starter switches are bad sometimes , I've seen it more than once

10 amps sounds high , have you bypassed the solenoid when this is goin on ?

At least it didn't get to your carb, filters are cheap might take a few to clean it up but now you need to worry about the tank as well

How many hrs on this machine ? If it's a Rod knock you'll need to go into it and verify and more importantly find out why , Was it not maintained properly or is the oil pump starting to fail, Don't think it's going away at higher rpms , maybe just not as easy to hear, Don't think there are rod...

Lock tite makes a thread insert , it comes with the tap and drill bit - it's a touchy situation there b/c you have very little to work with - if your careful and drill and tap , insert the thread insert very carefully then use JB weld or something like it ( Belzona ) comes to mind if you can...

I'd say if you had a clutch pulling too much amperage your fuse would pop, make sure there is nothing dragging your power down like a bad spindle , blade obstruction etc. spin everything by hand and be sure everything is free

Can't imagine why it wouldn't work , the hydraulic system is set to only put out so much pressure then it will go into bypass , I've used log splitters before and if it does not go all the way through , I just re mount the log and keep at it go for it I say

Well you can pull the fuel pump discharge side and crank on the mower , it should spit fuel out with each pulse of the engine will spinning over,

Check all your connections first and test the battery, Sometimes a hot engine is harder to roll over

How was / is your fuel level ? Tanks have baffles to maintain level fuel when using the machine but sitting at an angle it will all migrate to the lowest point, which may not be where your inlet is at that time

Use an Olm meter , switches are either normally open or normally closed , activate the switch and watch your meter to see what is what. If it's normally open , disconnect it , normally closed , hook a jumper and close it .

I would by pass all the safeties first then narrow it down to which one is causing this , There is one one each arm, the brake and seat for sure and they all are wired to relays which could be the culprit

Well start looking at ignition and or fuel problems, shoot a little starting fluid in the air cleaner and see if it fires off , if it does,,,it's a fuel problem , if not ----- igntion and go from there

You sheared the key on the flywheel, you'll need to pull the flywheel off the machine

Is it smoking when it loses power ? What does the air cleaner look like ?

That's using your head dude

Don't know of a KIT to replace engine mounting bolts,,,,,,,if there are any remaining , take one to the auto parts and find a matching bolt or bolts and replace them , if they vibrated out, you may have other issues as well. I've had to customize wrenches when there is no other way to get at...

You have a governor linkage issue ,something came loose a spring etc. if it's running away,,,,,,,the govenor has lost control ,

I've gotten some off amazon for decent prices,,,,,,the bearings are really cheap, like 6 for 15 bux or thereabouts , just pull them off and get a number , easy

Well , for an engine to run has to have 1 - Fuel 2- Compression 3- Fire 4- Timing Go down the list and see what's missing , Did you happen to hit something ? it can shear the flywheel key a bit and that's all it takes for your timing to be off and it aint running for anyone ...

Just because it has a full tank don't mean it's getting to the Carb / engine intake ......start from there and work backwards

Fuel

The Crankcase will be split at the bottom part of your engine, if it's oily residue towards the top , I suspect it's from a breather plate or tube that's venting from the crankcase or valve stem area. Unless you're having to add a bunch of oil to the machine , I would just keep an eye on it for...

All depends on the machine The belt guards for sure , I use a sturdy stick or anything I can get a good grip on to stretch the spring,

I hook one end into the fit, Wrap a cord around the other end and tie the other end of the cord to a stiff screw driver or handle and pull until it goes where it needs to .

Better figure out why the rod is bent first , they don't bend without a good reason , What ever caused it to bend is the main problem you're going to have to deal with

Carb cleaner does not have the lubricant to loosen it up, clean it up then use something like WD 40 and work it till it frees up and make sue it's not bent also

When you have it off the machine You'll be able to tell what's worn visually I'd imagine, clamp it tight and apply 12 volts via jumper cables or some such , one end to the housing the other just touch off on the connector, it will / should spin like hell and tell you something, you don't need to...

i have gotten several from amazon without problems

Pull it and lube it up, it's probably on it's last legs , starters are not very expensive , sounds like this one has given you about all it can .

Is this a mechanical PTO or Electric ? If electric I'm thinking you have a short to ground in the PTO circuit

I would get a ZTR with a Kohler or Kawasaki twin cylinder engine , Been using Bad boys for years with no problems, Not a fan of Kubota mowers might be just me but the ones I've had to work on were harder to service than the bad boys or Huskys

One is probably the ground, the other one is wired into the key switch - use a test light on the plus side of the battery and see which one makes the light come on, that will be the ground , now put 12 volts on the other smaller one , this will bypass all the safeties,,,,,ignition switch etc and...

There are 2 large terminals on the Solenoid , jumping across those will send 12 volts directly to the starter and it should spin,,,,,,,this only tells you the starter is good ,,,,,by jumping 12 volts to the small contact on the solenoid should make it engage and spin also ......if it does spin...

yeah

I hook one end where it's supposed to go and run a Sash cord around the other end and pull it with a heavy rod until it's stretched enough to get into the other fit,

There are 2 clicking noises you should notice, one--------in the on position ,,,,you should notice a click at the carburator fuel shut off solenoid ,,,,,,,,,,2 weather or not your machine is running you should hear a click at the PTO when you engage that switch,,,,,,,,,, 3 --- when you hit the...