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Have you recently replaced the keyswitch? Is there any corrosion on the keyswitch?

The engine running for 5 or so extra seconds means that the keyswitch/kill circuit isn't working, as it is shut down by the fuel solenoid. So your problem may be related to that problem {the keyswitch area}

And, how are you checking for spark?

What coil did you put on it?

Here is the date range.

Did you lose the spring? Put up a pic of the trimmer head you have. I likely have a new one we can compare it to.

No, many of these small engines have some sort of compression release.

Take a pic of your engine and post it here. Why did you use gasket sealer? If it is a standard bowl carb, remove the nut on the bottom and look at it. If you see little holes in the threads of it at top, clean them all out the best you can, and reinstall, and try it.

I know. I was being sarcastic. The Briggs engines had points until up to 1983 or so, and I always recommend putting the newer style coil on, and just clipping the wire to the points, and leaving the flywheel alone.

He should have asked on a Lawnmower Forum.

"His mower, his choice"!!

I think that Dixie Chopper used Lucas oil in everything back then.

Well, I meant that the pictures you take, you should post them on here.

I always find that putting up pics always helps. Is there a way to take a few pics of your deck?

Sounds like a little water in the tank/carb.

While it is running, remove the air filter and see how it runs.

Is it a fs316, or fs311?

All of the gals call me "bad boy".......

A cap full of Marvel Mystery Oil in your fuel will fix that.

A dirty air filter is a cause as well.

Crank the engine with the valve cover off.

Can you take a pic of the shaft and put it up?

I am not familiar with the saw, but if it runs on choke then dies when you move off choke, then it is likely a fuel/air issue. Electrical, it would have to ground out the coil when on run, but not on choke. Here is the wiring and throttle control blowup.

Yeah, some of them have a tight grip on the shaft, I usually use a screwdriver to spread the metal/clamp surface a bit, just don't go too much.

use a t-27 torx tipped wrench and remove the gearhead, just 1 fastener to loosen. See if the gearhead is bad/stripped, see if the driveshaft is still intact. Here is a pic of the gearhead.

I am wondering if the ball should be in the slot "here".{In Blue} Perhaps the plastic that grips it has been worn away.

Try the Stihl brand string and see if that cures the problem. Most of the trimmer line out there is crap.

Let us put this up first.

Sorry, I put up the incorrect blowup. Probably a bit of dislexia.

https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/throttle-trigger-stihl-part-no-4203-182-1003.html

Is this yours?

It looks like there were a couple variations. Which end are you talking about? Where it meets the carb?

Take off the cover between your legs, where the forward/reverse lever is, so you can watch the belts/pulleys. It will not want to go in F or Rev if the belts are still moving, so check things out.

Make sure that the engine mounting bolts are all tight.

Yeah, they look like a good idea. Hopefully they will hold up after a few years of use, it would be interesting to hear about folk's opinions.

Make sure that you have the fuel lines hooked back up correctly.

Likely a fuel line issue.

Here is a pic of the carb.

Here is the one I sell, the cable has the z-bend end.

Yes, the units have had some minor changes, the throttle cable ends, and slight changes in the air filter assembly, handle, etc.., but the 4140 powerhead has been pretty consistant. The throttle cable end change has forced me to include the throttle cable with the carb on my listings. Also...

Was the throttle cable ends different?

I am aware of the procedure, was just wanting to find out if you meant 1/4" of the piston travel, or 1/4 of a revolution of the flywheel.

"by finding TDC and then continuing 1/4 down" Elaborate on this a little.

I doubt it, it looks like it is a unique coil to the hedge trimmers. 4249 400 1300

We need some model numbers off of the engine.

I never put any back on.

There is a limiter to prevent richening up the screws very much, so pulling them is what is next to be able to richen them further.

Have you tried just richening up the mixture screws? The "primer" looks to be operating OK. It is actually a "purge" and pulls fresh gas through the carb and returns the excess to the tank. You might just pull the limiter caps and richen up your screws.

Adjust the valves. if it is OHV. Post the engine's model numbers.