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Nothing happened the first time you used it? Like hit an object? Did you buy it used? From a guy that works on mowers?

The pulley rounding off it fairly common problem.

It looks like the pully comes with the hub, so you would just need to add the nut. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/transmission-pulley-p-1584484.html

When you rotate the top shaft, and it is either in forward or reverse, the wheel axles should slowly turn.

No, rotate the shaft, and watch the wheel axles, with the f/w engaged in either direction. Take the thing to someone with an impact wrench to remove the nut.

Here is a ipl of the sh86, and also a glimpse of the "where used" of part #1.

If the blade is off or loose, it will jerk the cord out of your grip like that. Pushmowers have an aluminimun flywheel, and need the mass/weight of the blade. If that same engine were on a pressure washer or the like, the flywheel would be cast iron.

The cord jerking will happen if there is no blade, or the blade is loose.

These newer coils put out a very faint spark.

First take off the muffler and take a peek.

The wire is what shuts off the engine, it has a circuit that goes to switches, and one of those must be a activated/problem, or the wire is grounded out. The switches send the circuit to ground, which shuts off the engine. What is the model number of the push mower? It likely is the switch at...

Unplug the clutch, and run a couple temporary jumper wires from the battery, see if you hear the clutch go "clunk", or get nothing but sparks. Do the wiring so the sparking will be away from the battery.

Definitely not worth the time or money to try to rebuild/rings,etc.. https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/

The ground is here on the carb insulator screw.

Check the fanwheel, make sure it is running the same speed as the engine. It could be slipping.

You will want the newer style coil with the electronic chip added, as it did away with the points. What are the model numbers of your engine?

When you try to restart it hot, Hold the trigger all of the way down, and use absolutely no choke, and try to start it. See what happens.

What is the spec. number?

Check the flywheel key again. Insufficient torque and it will shear again.

Take the valve cover off, and rotate the flywheel by hand, and watch the rocker arms, make sure that the open close their valves at about the same distance. Make sure that one of the cam lobes isn't rounded off.

So looking at the carbs, if your model has the throttle rod, this should be your carb.

The other differences in the carbs are probably not that dire, so it narrows it down a bit.

Here is a snip of that bulletin. So if your unit uses a throttle rod, that narrows it down.

You ought to take off the valve covers again, then rotate the flywheel by hand while watching the rocker arms move. One of them may move only slightly. Brigg's engines from around that time had problems with a cam lobe wiping out, and this test will tell you if that is the case. Take a look...

No, the one bulletin I posted said there was a change, you need to know if yours has a throttle cable, or rod.

Here is the overview of that model run, some of those carbs are for the bg45, etc,.

Here is a bulletin showing a change in their carbs in the ipls. So whether or not it has a throttle cable, or throttle rod is an important clue.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/lawn-boy-10323-2400000012409999992004-silverpro-series-lawnmower-parts-c-166797_167463_168483.html

Look at how you move the tiller when it is not running, or if you can. See if you have to take the pins out of the wheel/shafts to free wheel, and see if you still can.

https://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/?msclkid=71a225ba67be1282efbd4601255884c6

The online engine warehouses used to be able to get you a compatible replacement engine.

Or a pic of it would help.

I'll use almost anything. I just like starting oil fights.

And no bad-mouthing Amsoil!!

Oil thread!!!!!!!

Devolve into an oil thread???

It is an OHV

These charts may help a little.

I made it mainly to show how I remove the clutch and flywheel, and my teardown time is fairly quick anymore.

The only danger you might come across if upgrading or replacing the piston cylinder is that they had a change in the intake boot, so you need to make sure that yours is the correct one or get the correct one if needed. I just include the boot with the piston/cylinder so the customer {or I}...

The MS291 is the same thing, but a bigger piston/cylinder.

Since it starts with starter fluid, does it keep running, or die when the starter fluid is burned off?

But if it is brand new, I would contact the dealer, as they would likely have an update.

I don't have any new info covering your unit, but here is a bulletin from an older unit, and I am sure that the issues with static buildup are the same.

That is a larger carburetor. What are your engine's model and type numbers?

You likely would have to share them to something else. I believe that you will have to have a battery in the loop for the solenoid to work/open.

Are you saying that you disconnect the battery totally, or just the jumper cable to it? Does your carburetor have a solenoid on the bottom of the carb? Can you snap a few pics?

I have a handy set of torch tip cleaners, and have a few times opened up passages a little extra in the past.

Many times the jet/bowl nut is partially clogged, causing it to run a little lean. Look closely and find all of the tiny holes and make sure that they are clear.