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Don't be alarmed that the clear fuel filter looks empty, most folks go that rabbit hole at least once. While running, apply the choke partially, and see if it clears up.

I remember back in the 1990s, I saw a couple of their mowers made by Murray, and I remember having trouble getting the parts looked up. I'll look out in the shop tomorrow for some old Murray books.

What country are you in?

Are your valves missing their little caps?

Yes.

I'll just post them here.

I just p.m.ed you my facebook page.

If you are on facebook messenger, send them to me, and I will post them here.

I don't know about phones generally, but I would say do a screenshot, then post that file.

It is pretty bad when the small engine mechanics can quit and go to work at McDonalds, and get a raise. I should have gotten into working on boat motors.

Yeah, it is pretty dang low around here.

Just out of curiousity, what are experienced small engine mechanics making hourly these days?

Are you sure that you at TDC? Or are you doing the TDC when one valve is just closing, and the other one opening?

I was just checking the room for old guys.

My 5 years of working on tractor/trailers helped me quickly have a distaste for winter.

You need to closely inspect the areas where the camshaft rides, as you may very well see cracks there, and your expensive repair would crumble in short order. As far as being scared, well. Working on this stuff for a living, I have found folks that had bad results go out of their way to...

Take out the plug and crank it. See if it cranks better. Clean/buff all of the battery connections, even where it bolts to the frame.

I would suggest cleaning and inspecting the cylinder walls closely, as it doesn't look too perky from here. The cost of a new crank and rod is quite high, to be throwing into a cylinder with damage. You usually can buff out the cranks, btw. It usually is just pasted on aluminum.

I wouldn't bother with it myself. If it doesn't last very long, it will be a lot of money wasted, and your name will be associated with it.

It is hard to say, it is likely a valve leaking or head gasket. If it were mine, I would run it a bit and see what it does. If it is a bad head gasket, you will likely start burning oil, if the bad spot is at the pushrod chamber. I never mess with compression gauges with these engines, as...

Wouldn't a Predator engine have metric bolts?

Give the air filter a good bath.

Save your money on the courses. Start with an engine that doesn't run, and start on it. Start a new thread here, with pics, and brand and model numbers. Ask questions, listen to the guys here, but always do tests to know what needs replaced, not listen to the guy that says "Put a new coil on...

Unfortunately, I can no longer access the Stihl website and lookups.

Here.

Is it the 2 piece one that you are talking about? Or have they come out with a newer style. My parts lists are @ 11 years old.

The one valve/rocker looks tight {as in not letting the valve fully close}. But unless the jamb nut/adjuster is loose, it would mean that something else is up, like maybe a loose valve seat. But I may be wrong, as I am not there to really see things.

The one on the bottom looks a little tight. What are the valve clearances?

Remove and unplug the keyswitch, and take a picture of the posts on the back of it. Also take a pic of the plug so we can see the colors of the wires. The keyswitch should have letters designating what each wire goes to. Put the pics up on the main thread, and it should be fairly easy.

What about your fuel? Old fuel can make it hard to start. Also gas sold in warm weather is formulated different than that you buy in cold weather, and could be related to your problem.

What are the valves set at?

Thread compound wouldn't hurt. And old redneck trick to break up carbon in the combustion chamber was to dribble a tiny bit of water into the carb while the engine is running, but I don't know if I would try it on a tiny engine like that. Stihl does have a product that breaks up gunk for...

Yeah, sitting with old gas gets those jets gummed up. Glad it worked for you. I actually leave that nut turned back a hair so the fuel will drip on out before I put it up for the year.

Remove the bowl nut and bowl and take a peek. Inspect the nut {jet} and thoroughly clean out all of the little holes/passages.

A buildup of carbon in the combustion chamber is likely your problem. It looks like the screen just slips in and out and is held in place by the metal tang. I was just wanting more info, as the problem was likely either a flooding carb, or a buildup of carbon, which could be the fault of a...

Pull the plug, and see if it is wet, or has a lot of carbon. Take out the muffler screen and inspect as well. Give the air filter a good wash in laundry soap with de-greaser. Let us know what you see.

If it won't hold, you may have to switch to a helicoil with the correct fasteners.

This easy.

Just pull up the photo on your computer, and then pull up the menu, and click on "snipping tool", then post that pic. Very easy.

I would replace the fuel lines, go through the carb, replace the plug, then adjust the valves.

Likely rotted fuel lines, they are likely crumbling.

If the carb has a low speed mixture screw, richen it up a bit. Just to test, partially choke it while you engage the blades.

"Last time I'll bug you [pretty sure : ) ]" Bug us all you want, we enjoy trying to help folks fix stuff.

I wouldn't invest much money in an engine that has had a loose seat. I would just grind the exhaust valve stem to the correct clearance and slap it back together and see how it runs. This venture so far has given you a pretty good education in small engines. If it had come into my shop, I...

Why they don't cut the valve seats is beyond me. The intake valve needs to be fully staked in the whole circumference, but the valve seats definitely need to be cut. The exhaust seat looks normal, don't mess with it, just needs cut. Here is the valve seat cutter I use.

But your problem is the intake valve seat is not fully seated in the recess, and the ability of curing it is likely not feasible on such an old engine.

This guy does a rough valve service, I don't know why he doesn't re-cut the seats though. Those get cocked in the bore and just lapping the valves is insufficient.

If I understand your question, the exhaust valve seat looks ok, it is the intake that is your problem.