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Good thing. I'm guessing the next step was a bigger hammer........

As I've said a hundred times " And the government just keeps paying unmarried, unemployed, uneducated, fourth generation welfare women to have children who just continue the cycle." May not apply in this situation, but most.

Have you actually verified the broken rod in the old Briggs? If so, any other damage to the motor that you can see? Might be possible to repair that motor for reasonable money. Normally you'd junk the mower and buy new but since it fits your needs perfectly I'd look into fixing what's there...

Kind of hard to diagnose this but have you found the low speed throttle adjustment on the new carb? Get the speed up then play with the LS jet some.

That's a pretty decent machine. Hard to replace that these days for any reasonable money. If it's still in decent condition I'd look into a motor replacement before scrapping it.

Every time I use Bing or Yahoo I get about 20 sites that sell anything and everything that has nothing to do with whatever I'm searching seems like. Google is not there - yet.

Ignition coil going bad?

Does this motor have a fuel pump on it? Those pumps can get some crud built up on the little rubber type internal valves and lose capacity.

Well, $25 for a cut, trim, and blow on a quarter acre sounds pretty fair to me. No bother, gas and oil, equipment taking up space, time and trouble.

Guy sure had a non-comfy office chair. But the secretary was pretty deluxe.

On some of the old diaphragm carbs there is a choke preset deal when putting it back together. This one have this and did you do it? And I have seen these that won't run right with the air cleaner off for some reason.

What kind of Datsun do you have?

Oops, I was late to the party this time.

Check for valve action. Does the motor sound like there is compression when on the starter? There is usually a slide on gear that turns the cam and a key in a keyway for this. Don't know how it would get out but Murphy might have gotten in there? $250 sounds like a good deal on that mower.

Used to work in a steel mill years ago. Only place I can think of where water can cause a MAJOR explosion. Liquid melted iron in a wet ladle. Not good.

I used to be real patient with stuff like this until I learned that a couple choice words made real good parts loosener. That and a bigger hammer.

I'd rig up a gas shut off valve in the fuel line. Get it running and fouling up the plugs and shut off the fuel supply. If it smooths out and runs for several seconds the problem is in fact the float valve/needle leaking through. Some of those have a rubber tipped needle, some have a rubber...

Not real sure with this motor but can you swap coils from side to side? That would prove the coil issue. Might also try putting the choke on some when it starts sputtering, see if that smoothes it out, might point to carburetion rather than ignition.

Chances are that thumbnail will never be the same either. Been there with my index finger. Been two years.

Maybe bumped the release lever on the rear panel a bit and need to push back in fully?

That Cub Cadet might be some overkill but I like a bit better than the Deeres, even with that K46 hydro. Good sized tires/wheels, fab. deck, big Kohler twin, good warranty if there's a local dealer. But the price is something to consider too.

One other thing. I wouldn't just assume the other K46 is a good transmission either. Might be better off pulling the mounted unit and cleaning it out, refill with new oil, reseal and trying it instead. Many (me for one) have done this and gotten a couple hundred more hours out of it.

One thing I'd maybe add is a water tank on the back of that machine. Be really handy to fill the tank and take it anywhere for a small job. Totally self contained with maybe 5 gallons for a two minute job out in the back forty.

I just replaced the drive belt on my JD. Last one that was falling apart was an actual John Deere belt, made in China, about 4 years (200hrs) old. Replacement was a Stens. We'll see how it lasts.

For me I just use Lawn Boy oil in the LB mower, Stihl oil in everything else. (Stihl dealer is close to me) Ratio mix pretty much as they recommend.

Seems odd that it smoothes out with the throttle cut back. Is the motor running on both cylinders when loaded up? Might try a new set of spark plugs. They do go bad these days.

I would think the two TT hydros would bolt up and drive the same. Maybe a keyed vs splined axle shaft or the shifter arm might be extended different but you could swap parts and make those work. Different brands would probably be a hard swap.

I'd replace that chain. The actual chain part stretches over time and use and does not engage as it should in the driver sprocket, really wears that out much quicker. But just looking at the sawdust can tell a lot about the cutters depth. Real fine sawdust means the cutters are worn and...

And the Chinese small engine cloners are grinning ear to ear on this bankruptcy.

Very good point there. Dealer sold you a defective product - and knew it.

Been reading reviews on Gravely's own site for this mower. Ouch!

Just hard to believe that any company would put out a product like this. I wonder if that series machine had a running change to a different deck and frame design or something just as this one was going out the door. Really strange. I'd not sit and wait for a solution.

Just curious. Is that a 12 Cu in Briggs motor?

Aha. Then need to check for polarity of the two magnets, plus minus 1st magnet to plus minus 2nd magnet if the magnets are actually made that way. Easy to put them back in wrong. Just use a small magnet to check them. edit. Went out and checked a flywheel off a HH70, each magnet is full...

I'd sure think that if the magnets were glued in wrong the primary voltage would be weak. But are these just charging magnets inside or the actual ignition primary magnets?

Is this a brake that you push down and then lock it with a knob on the dash? Does the brake pedal come back up?

This is what keeps me away from high voltage battery seasonal equipment. Battery reliability and cost. I like the concept though.

There are magnets under that flywheel that maybe came loose and jammed under there, locked the motor and the flywheel inertia created the mess. Just guessing.

I remember back in the day the Suzuki motors had roller bearings everywhere, well built and run forever.

Sure looks like it, and the recoil starter does have what looks like 2 cycle on it.

Were you getting a good blue spark across the plug gap?

Vaporizing the gas I'd guess. Pretty common with today's summer blended fuels I suppose. Don't know if there's a solution for that if that is what is happening. Might let it run easy for a minute before shut down and after starting to cool it off.

People on HGTV pay a fortune for "landscaping" like that. Add some running water and a couple big rocks and you could be on TV.

LOL. Great minds think alike?

Double check the belt routing. There are a couple things under there that keep the belt from falling off the pulleys when the clutch/brake is pushed in and it's easy to get the belt on the wrong side of one of those. Don't ask how I know, duhhh.

Ethanol, clean fuel, dirty business. Had a huge ethanol plant down on the river some years ago, big outfit. ADM bought the place, shut it down, bulldozed the whole place. Controlling the market, owning the government.

Only good product I've used was the old Scotts weed and feed. I see now they have replaced it with their Turfbuilder stuff. Probably a friendly weakened product that doesn't work worth crap like all the other stuff on the market, but still triple priced. I've pretty much given up on the whole...

Solidly built like a safe!

How many people work in your shop? And sounds like a management nightmare to me, but my management skills are right at 0 (zero).

I suspect this is the actual problem: Transmission Kanzaki K46 Type belt-driven hydrostatic Gears infinite forward and reverse Oil change sealed unit, service not recommended Might do some searching on the net for info about this drive unit. Sure not suited for commercial use, or...