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And keep in mind that for low resistance readings the wires on the meter actually give a reading. Need to have a meter that will zero out that.

Max speed about 7 mph. Maybe 5" ground clearance @ front and rear axles. Price is right though.

Used a Lawnboy back when I was a kid, dad bought it to trim with. I liked to mow with that little machine, engine purred, didn't weight anything, cut really nice. I used to mow half the yard with it just for fun. Still in the family, still runs, looks like crap.

Some years ago I threw away a Craftsman Bushwhacker because of this. Replacing the rope and the spring came after me. Spent a day trying to get that thing back in, gave up. Good machine too. Wish I knew then......

I sure hope not! Florida for a while.

I've seen JB Weld on a diesel engine in a semi truck, held up for another million miles I suppose. if the bore and bushings are still true it should work.

Any chance it's leaking from the top seal, under the flywheel, running down the side under the tin?

Bearings are expensive, bushings are cheaper, running a cast crank/cam on an aluminum cast bore is free. I've read there are some Suzuki verticals that do have bearings on the cranks, from their old 2 stroke origins I suspect.

And get an additional 20% off everything, except everything you'd ever want to buy.

Make sure the choke is opening all the way, put some load on the motor and run it a while. Then take a second look at that plug.

Old school crankcase vent tube. Newer engines have this run to the carburetor intake, keeps the EPA happy.

I'd guess with the cylinder not firing and the actual much lower cylinder pressures and temperatures the engine would not be damaged at this point. Pressure and splash lubrication should have kept wear to a minimum, maybe even less than the other two cylinders that were doing all the work...

I use a bench top drill press, a lot lighter to handle like this. And a wooden chair is a lot more stable.

Turn key off and on, listen for that solenoid to click, might be gummed up or just bad yet again.

Really a clean looking engine inside, shows good maintenance.

Might pull the spark plugs and give the motor a couple revs with the starter to make sure there's no buildup in the cylinders.

Sometimes the "bigger hammer" or "heat wrench" does work!

https://www.amazon.com/General-Transmissions-GT42737-Grease-EP00/dp/B01MY5B3FV/ref=redir_mobile_desktop/146-1702882-8935028?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Z4L9GiIHL&dpPl=1&keywords=gt42737&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&qid=1485225328&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_1&sr=8-1 You can also get this lube at Tractor Supply in a...

Has that sump base been repaired at some point? JB Weld maybe? Not sure from the picture but something looks odd there.

I think it uses the 00 weight grease, drill a hole to put it in. Some videos on you tube on how to clean the pulleys too, very important maintenance there.

And in Physics + is minus and - is supply of electrons or +. I studied Physics until I started to understand it then realized just how dumb I really am.

Our old house was a two story, top gutter section was non-accessible, that worked for me too. And take the blower and blow up the downspout first, really makes a display sometimes.

Looks like 28m707 when blown up.

Might probe the battery terminals with a meter. Maybe the high powered batteries are series or parallel wired some way that's different.

Better run Forest, RUN !

Thanks for the info. I guess I was living in the past when two strokes were real oil burners.

Something like this?

I always tip the mower so the spark plug is up. Not the handiest way to get under the mower sometimes but avoids all the mess.

I'd think those bearings/bushings could be replaced with something generic and available. Might need some reworking to fit but could easily wind up with a better setup for a whole lot less money.

Did it do this with the old carb?

Last time I mowed the yard I think that was about right.

Looking at those suspension pieces I suspect the batteries are not in it. Maybe a Briggs twin power plant?

The carb on this series has a port that enriches the mixture when the governor pulls the throttle to wide open and that bloww the extra fuel/oil mix back to the intake area. As the carb and throttle shafts wear that extra fuel starts getting back to that intake a little all the time, the motor...

If the ground wire doesn't work I suspect you'll need to pull the flywheel. Might find something like this: Hopefully yours is a lot cleaner.

Little different over here with the Native Americans. Quite a few major battles have been recorded in folklore and thousands of arrowheads and chipped hatchets (tomahawks) found in fields have proven it. But they were much better caretakers of the land than we have been.

Just curious, wondering what the piston top on a decent running two stroke is supposed to look like. Looking down in my blower and the piston is light brown and dry. I get a small chunk of light colored carbon in the plug gap now and then too. Seems like that piston should be some oily...

I don't miss my dad that much. He was a dutiful parent, more than a lot of kids have today, but nothing special. Had there been decent birth control, or even abortion on demand, I might not be here I suppose. Maybe made me a better parent because of this.

Why does a quarterback get paid more than a halfback, or even a fullback?

Oops. Says so in the first post even. Thanks!

One reason I don't like front wheel drive propelled mowers. Have to lift on the handle to get traction. I have filed grooves in the tires on an old Murray that we had, helped a lot with traction.

Not sure which post to respond to but I'd first check the transmissions on anything you're looking at. I'd consider spending a couple hundred dollars more to get a higher rated setup in that area. Engines and other parts are about the same in a price range these days. Look for cylinder...

Rig up a 12 volt light bulb with wires to connect to battery terminals, try the starter and see if the light stays on. If so, good battery.

Put the mower on some concrete, see if the wheels are spinning or just not pulling.

Not too uncommon for this. The lock nut takes up the slack in the threads on the adjuster, a real small amount will show up at the valve tip. Just adjust a couple thousands loose to get the right clearance when all secured. Might rotate the flywheel back and forth while checking the clearance to...

Belts tight? Pull the belts off the bottom pulleys and see what that does. I crank my Lawn Boy with a Sears drill, teaches that mower a lesson too. Was your motor running ok to start with?

Might start looking around for a used mower like yours for parts? Something like this: https://limaohio.craigslist.org/grd/d/glandorf-john-deere-lt155-riding-mower/7204396500.html

Pay more, get less these days. One or the other, or both. Even PopTarts are smaller, same size box and wrap.

Looks like a sleeved engine and the vertical marks might be caused by the sleeve to block securement design. And that pattern might be why it's using oil. Hone and new rings might take care of it.

Found a better image, good one!