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I'd guess those bulbs got wet while hot. Don't know the explanation for this but seen it a lot in some of my junk. Are those lights always on when the motor is running? Battery light might be completely separate issue.

To swap motors you basically remove the operator cable, put a clamp on the recoil start rope so it won't rewind back more and take the end off the handle bar, remove the blade, take out the three mounting bolts, trade motors. Sometimes the mounting bolts are a tough chore, as said before soak...

Might take out the plug, spray in some starting fluid, replace plug and see if it starts and quits. If so probably a carb or fuel supply problem. That red round button on the air cleaner is a primer, push it several times before starting.

That mower is dangerous in my opinion. I'd find another mower on Craigs list or FB marketplace with a blown engine - for cheap - and do a transplant.

That's a tough question to answer. Those hours add up to about 10 years of homeowner use. Lot of mower for the money though, and a commercial build. But you say you're not really up on lawnmowers so I'd go with the above reply. Add some money to this and buy a new mower that will suit your...

Tuff Torq recommends a 5w50 synthetic oil for the K46 boxes. Same basic unit (I think). There are a couple magnets inside the case on these and can have some serious build up on them. Best to remove, split the case and clean out the insides. Usual recommendation is to drain the oil, measure...

Had several (4 or 5) B&S motors torn down in the last couple years with the cylinder and piston skirts just destroyed. The top 1/2" of the bore where the actual piston doesn't ride is still decent on these. One new shortblock ran for one season. But I do see old Kool Bore motors worn out that...

Still screwed up here.

It really surprises me that those old hydros actually sell for a couple hundred dollars on ebay. The much maligned Tuff Torq K46 crap even sells.

If it's sparking at the cable you have either a loose connection or a corroded cable inside the terminal I suspect.

One nice thing about this forum actually. A question usually gets answered without turning into a roast after three or four postings, unlike many other forums.

Then there are the videos created to show one certain function or repair tip that start out with 5 minutes of mumbo jumbo before they show what screw to turn. Good that we can click on the time line and go past all that.

Probably a pretty decent tool and would meet your needs. But that $90 replacement battery, or $120 for a more powerful one, would sure hurt if the OE battery gives out just out of warranty. I have a couple older battery trimmers and have to admit, they sure are handy. And quiet!

Does this motor have a compression release for easy starting? Sometimes valve adjustment is critical for for this to actually work. Hopefully someone with more knowledge than me will look into this.

How many hours on that John Deere rider? Sure looks like new. Those mowers cut really well too.

One thing to think about. Hit up a local recycle or scrap metal dealer. Around here they usually have a stack of old mowers, sell parts or the whole mower dirt cheap. I've got really good wheels and a carb for for a couple dollars. Scrap value is almost nothing these days so selling a few...

I remember those punch cards too. We had a plate burner that we programmed with the punch tape deal. Pretty amazing machine back in the day, but some work in getting the program together. Site is working fine today, so far. Edit - spoke too soon, it's back.

I've used this place for some pretty obscure parts over the years. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/lawn-equipment-parts.html

But sometimes being the village idiot takes off a lot of pressure.........

I checked around and couldn't find anything different, went with 6 intake and 7 exhaust. No big loss if it smacks the lobes off the cam I guess. Bunch of old parts but a really good bore and long skirt chromed piston, unusual for a Kool Bore these days seems like.

Putting this little engine back together, generic 12 cu. in. L head vertical motor. Checking valve lash and getting .003 on both intake and exhaust with the plastic cam. Old book I have calls for 5-7 intake and 7-9 on exhaust. I haven't changed anything on the motor, do the plastic cams run...

This is from an older single cylinder Briggs manual:

Can't go wrong with more power! Those are pretty good engines too. I'd go with it. Only problem might be if you'd hit a tree root and kill the whole machine maybe.

Later today I'll take a look at my mower and see how it's wired, if anything shows up that might help I'll post.

Yep, you are right. Shows something down in that corner when the yellow banner comes on. Hadn't noticed that. Thanks!

Might get this direct from B&S, but they sure are proud of their manuals, $25 for one I looked at for a 12cc single.

Anyone else getting this message on Firefox? Searched around and seems to be from a tracking site of some sort? Problem with the site or here on my end?

Something to try. Get it all ready to go, let out the clutch and with your toes pull back on the clutch pedal. Sometimes will add tension on the belt and increase bite on the pulleys. With the hydro I can't see what turning the fan a bit would make any difference in that trans. I'm thinking...

Much like working on a late model car. Trouble hits and people assume a problem with some high tech electronics, might be a loose hose, bad connection, pinched wire, etc.

I like the Cub Cadet here. Might really do some serious shopping and get into a ZTX4 for the same money as the Exmark?

Love those old machines even though I've come close to getting sterilized a couple times by one of the handles while riding on the sulky (vulky?).

Not too many good looking big Buicks around, but that is a really good looking big Buick. And that ditch mower is something that can be real handy, beats the heck out of a weedeater, and the grass looks 100% better mowed.

Two things I see, internally vented carb, and symptoms of fuel starvation. But I'd get in touch with the dealer, or a rep. from Kubota, and get the mower in the shop and take home a loaner.

Working fine here with Firefox browser.

Somewhere there would be a release deal so you can push the tractor, something has to move to disengage. Take a look from that angle?

Get a spare bolt and grind a slight taper on the end of it, start it into the crank to dress the llead in threads.

Is this an overhead camshaft engine?

And I'd add that stored gas in a metal can filled to just near the top will stay useable much, much longer than the same stored in a plastic container.

Seems like usually when they develop this knock you hear it a couple times and then it lets go. You might have dodged that bullet.

That sounds like what's in my Sears Craftsman GT tractor. 917.255980 Yours is a smaller tractor but trans. might be the same? https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/4nizy8x6c4-000247/craftsman-917255980-front-engine-lawn-tractor-parts...

I now see the Briggs & Stratton name on battery packs (82v) used in lawn and garden equipment from various companies and they have their own battery mower engine line now. No doubt Chinese crap - but sure not cheap. But I've been putting together a 12 cu in Briggs engine for an old mower and...

That sounds like a pretty neat tool actually. Never had a problem with the drill going wild but have had the socket stay with the motor and had to shut it down to get it off. We live dangerously here in Appalachia.

Don't know if you can do this on that motor but, When my old LB won't start I get out the drill, chuck up an adapter and a socket that fits the flywheel bolt, spin away. Usually will start it up and teaches it a lesson. Make sure the motor brake is not on, cross bar on upper handle deal. When...

I'd suspect bad reed valve or bad crank seals. Not sure that old mower is worth all that work, and might start getting into some serious money

Sounds good to me, how does it run when mowing grass?

But first they raid the pension plan, then turn what's left of it over to the government. Assuming they still have a a pension plan that is. Lots of mumbo jumbo in the articles but the execs have to stay on board until next year to keep the cash, and they had their pay cut during the virus shut...

If your mower has an electric blade clutch you'll need the more powerful charging system. If not the smaller units will work fine. The dual amp sized system is one DC for recharge and separate AC winding for the headlights.

Really a nice looking mower. Plenty of power for that sized mower too. Only thing to watch for is that boxed steel front axle setup. Those wear out with that big motor load and drop down, won't swivel like it should. Not sure of the transmission used on that model, but the price looks pretty...

You can get the JD 525 model for under $4000 about anywhere, and that has the Hydrogear drive vs the Tuff Torq. But either of the new ZTs are strictly residential mowers. Flat yard and occasional use. And I could not find the engine manufacture listed, could be the Chinese standard issue that's...

I'd first get in touch with the Craigslist seller, might have the flywheel and be willing to trade for yours if so.