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Yeah but wish he'd clearly said 4 stroke engine. A newbie might try testing his chainsaw, trimmer, etc like this.

I ripped the Left deck hanger out of my 44" 1989 yr deck (By repeatedly ramming the L side into walls, trees, etc. LOL.) I thought "This may be a good reason to get a small DC welder and learn for small tasks!" Well, I was able to repair with mending plates, big bolts and JB weld.

Thanks, ILENGINE. Did the stacked pulley work ok in ground engaging?

I saw 14 speed and thought "Wow - is this some super Peerless?" The more I looked, appears it's a Hi-Lo Selector - Stacked Pulley Drive. Sounds like a pain to get adjusted correctly. Can't see the need for 14 sp - maybe it's a marketing ploy. Anybody worked on one?

You've done all that - so you have skills. Look on FB mktplace and craigslist for a non-runner that just needs a carb cleaning or replacement.

Smoke from under the deck? The PTO lever is off, right? The deck belt is pulling on the engine pulley? As in routed wrongly. When starting, the deck belt should be loose and put no load on the engine pulley.

If harder to pull than previously....probably carbon on piston top and "head" (inside of jug top). You could try a tsp of fuel on the piston top to give it lube and then pull. Disassembly and clean carbon out is more permanent. If a flat spot exists on jug...could drill / tap a 10mm x 1.0 decomp...

They need the cyl wall to generate that compression. As said - yours is ugly.

Those are at sears parts direct for $39 and $21. Kinda pricey for an old mower. If the aim is just functionality, most defelctors can be adapted.

There you go!

Gravity fed carb? Did you check oil level? is it high? Diesel is a lube - could have slipped by the needle/seat and landed in the crankcase.

Is it? 095312-0266-E1 Engine model should be on the blower housing. Search web for above #. Example IPL here...

Great explanation, Bert. I'm gonna copy it for when I get a vari-drive to rehab.

Why not get a lawn service to mow the yard short 1 time, then use reel mower?

What's the engine model? Near spark plug or valve cover. Fuel tank vent clogged? Open cap and see if changes. Coil fails when hot? Check spark when hot. Valves out of adjustment? Check clearance.

Here is typical Opp Twin model #:

Above is IPL. You'll see it's a flathead/L head. Valves are in the block under the breather assy. Sounds like you're burning oil - where is it coming from? Breather bad? 1st, check fuel delivery. See if you can keep it running with short bursts of carb cleaner or starting fluid. You could have...

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/briggs-stratton/briggs-stratton-engine/100000-19z999-series/12q800-to-12q899/12q802-0120-d1/cams-crankshaft-cylinder-engine-sump-kit-gaskets-lubrication-piston-group-valves

Check Briggs # - doesn't look right. If 6.5hp, it's gonna be 12xxxx-xxxx. Eg: 126T07-0062

I had a Honda carb 1/4 as bad as Hammer's and I WAS GONNA FIX IT! Float pin was so seized in there that I busted a goalpost whacking it.

Fuel line partially blocked? Fuel line is too long and makes a big dip between tank and carb? I'd change the fuel line next - $1.50 a foot at auto parts store.

I'd do that next. But it seems like a diaphragm stiffening would move less fuel - so puzzling. Maybe tank is heating up in the sun, pressurizing and spitting fuel into intake.

Wow, 1954. Maybe a vintage mechanic will come by. If you can't get this carb working...maybe there's a modern one for similar hp and mount. And can adapt throttle and choke.

Briggs part #s are 6 digits.

Short squirts of carb cleaner in throat does what....smooths out? bogs more? shuts down? FW key sheared a little bit, so still runs but timing too advanced?

Full disassembly cleaning? Wire the orifices? Needle and float work properly?

I gave my son a 140cc OHV Briggs 09P702 SP and he pulls a small 20* slope with it fine. I'd guess the 163cc will be fine BUT why not fix the Snapper? Esp if the engine is good. Snappers or Toros should last 50+ years.

Could be: Low fuel delivery-dirty carb, Pull air filter. Get it running, give short squirts of carb or brake cleaner into throat. See if you can keep it running. Choke not opening. Pull air filter and look at choke plate when running. Plug fouled from running rich - pull it, clean it.

While waiting on new parts...try soaking metering diaphragm in Marvel Mys Oil. I've gotten a little flexibility back that way and gotten a machine running. Not ideal - new is better. And on the other side is the fuel pump diaphragm - thin acetate. It may be stiff, too, and will need repalcement.

Hard to tell just looking. With other hand - move it. Is rubber supple or does it clack? Unscrew phillips head and remove lever, pin, needle and spring to clean. DON'T LOSE SPRING. Put a finger on lever as you unscrew phillips.

The metering and pump diaphragms need to be very supple. If they "clack" at all - they are too stiff. It may start but won't throttle up with stiff diaphragms. A WYL-19 rb kit is $6. A new AM carb is $10. MTD 75305251 Carburetor w/ Primer

Are the engine mounting holes in rusty hole areas? - Can the engine be moved off the vertical axis? If the engine is not stable, the deck has to be welded for strength or a good deck brought in. Recently, I looked at mowers in $300-$350 range and said no way would I buy one. I'll fix an older...

I'd pull the muffler and look at piston/ring and intake cyl wall. Then pull plug and look at exh cyl wall. These strato Poulans are set REAL lean from factory and do score. The H screw may need 3-4 turns out. I won't spend $ on a piston/cyl kit for them.

It's a 4 stroke. Manual says DO NOT put oil in the fuel. It has a 3.04oz sump for SAE 30. It may have run on 2 stroke fuel and got really carboned up. If fuel lines broke, I'm sure carb diaphragms are stiff and passages blocked. So, cleaning and rebuild time or a new carb.

Yours is an opposed twin. This manual is older but should be close: https://www.manualslib.com/download/863144/Briggs-And-Stratton-Twin-Cylinder-L-Head.html

No, ILegine is right. Briggs has 6-4-2 nomenclature. You're missing the last 7.

Carb is 545081848. OEM is $32 or AM is ~$11.

Running some on choke points to fuel delivery problem. Can check with a spray bottle of 2 cycle fuel (don't use starting fluid - no lube). Get it running and keep spraying fuel into carb throat. It you can keep running 15 secs or more, I'd disassemble, clean and replace diapraphms in carb. Or...

Puzzling statement. How do you know if long enough? You are holding bail handle to negate FW brake? Pull rope with plug in, then plug out. Any difference?

The manual says to on carb on tank models - 09xxxx and 10xxxx. I've wondered about it. 1. Does the oil trap tiny debris? The sponge is pretty dense. 2. Do carbs on tank need a misting of oil? I do it cuz manual says to. I get 10-15 hours of dusty mowing before foam above big holes in AF housing...

Carb on tank....the gasket goes on bottom of plastic carb first, then the diaphragm. The diaphragm is against the metal tank.

Lots of youtube videos. Or buy a carb off ebay or amazon - Aftermarket are $9. Search Briggs 799866.

I bet your carb is dirty - will need disassembly and cleaning. Or buy a new one. Here - look at your parts: https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/briggs-stratton/briggs-stratton-engine/100000-19z999-series/126t00-to-126t99/126t02-0125-b1/carburetor

Yes. Yes on fuel in carb throat....but you've already done this with fuel in plug hole. It popped, so it's a fuel/air problem. This an auto choke-air vane/Thermostat. See that the choke plate in the carb (nearest the filter housing) is closed when cold. And it could be a dirty carb and fuel not...

The Briggs 12xxxx engines are good. I have 3 mowers currently with those engines. But I wouldn't spend any $ on internals for any of them. I had a 12S912 on a PW. Needed a camshaft, gov-oil slinger and whole gasket set - well north of $100. Around here, a 12xxxx mower with a dirty carb is $0-$20.

Post the model #. May be 13xxxxxxxx. May be under seat. Post serial #, too, if on sticker.

You can find SAE 40 (STP) at Autozone. Oreilys had Castrol SAE 40 but $7/qt.

If M and G are closed in the OFF position, then ign switch is working. Bet the kill wire is grounded inappropiately (insulation worn off) between coil tab and ign switch. I'd examine the length of the M wire on key switch to the coil tab. If key OFF = yes grounded. If Key ON = no ground. If...

Post engine model #. Eg: 110602-1031-E1. Probably stamped above the spark plug. Sounds like poor fuel delivery - Carb not adjusted, Carb bad, carb hooked up wrong, choke not working when cold, gov not working properly.

The idle screw is the big phillips head. It should be turned in/CW for higher idle. The 2 smaller screws are the Lo & Hi jets. Lo is always nearest to cyl. 1.5 out/CCW from lightly seated is a good starting point. Maybe you just need the IDLE screw turned CW. Watch the taper on this screw -...