Search results

Wow , unbelievable - looks like you're goin to have to replace the crankshaft - that's the kinda luck I usually have - I'd be interested in how you move forward from this debacle -

Wouldn't surprise me if they're not cross drilled in todays age of quality control. If it's got an oil pump it has to be a pressurized system and getting oil though the crankshaft ports up to the rod bearings all the way up into the piston pin. Only way to verify is to pull it apart though

Don't see how a standard Key will fit where a half moon key goes or how to get it to stay in place. you should be able to find a " Key set " somewhere with the right key, I'd be surprised if you don't continue to have problems with this set up.

Pull your starter and throw 12 volts on it , it should spin over freely , hold on tight b/c it will jump.

Clean and check all your battery connections , your starter may be getting old and worn if all connections are good - not the Solenoid if it's kicking the starter over or the ignition switch

Never heard of a Head gasket leak sounding like a hiss, if it's leaking you will get a blowby from the combustion chamber and your machine will not run good or even at all. Can't imagine what is hissing

Must be a carb problem if it's getting fuel at a steady rate, When did this start ? what's the history before

Wow , send it back and get the right one, these are really good machines odd that you're running into problems with it,

You can use plastic guage to confirm your clearance - only guessing it should be .002-.006 somewhere thereabouts

Make sure of the fit, when final torque is applied you should be able to bump it and feel it move with a little slack if you can't feel it give , something is not right , be certain of the con rod / rod cap orientation there should be match marks to be right if not you may have it reversed.

I could be the coil but I've yet to run across a bad coil, I did have to drill a vent hole on a small Honda machine that was acting like this, so that may be a good idea to eliminate the venting issue. Don't rely on a new plug , I've had to change plugs a couple times on these small guys even...

I replaced the same motor with a 23hp Kawasaki twin cylinder, exhaust was a little tricky but everything else fit up and worked fine. That Courage 20 hp is not a good designed machine in my opinion.

This is a tough one but if there's a carburator adjustment have someone hold it down full throttle while you play with the adjustment screw until it levels off, these 2 cycle machines can be finicky

If it's burning the fuse there is a short to ground most likely a larger amp fuse is not the answer, look at the wire and check it to ground , it's touching off somewhere.

I'm guessing you have a sensor on the fuel tank ,the wire either came off or possibly a short, put an Olm meter on it to chase it down

Jump battery voltage to the solenoid small terminal and see if it kicks the solenoid into play , if it does , it's either a safety switch holding you out or a bad ignition switch. These safety switches are not easy to bypass I've found I think they're wired in series so all would have to be...

Get a thread insert or helicoil - I think Lock tite sells the inserts , will come with drill / tap and insert to repair this , Helicoil is cheaper but still works

Use a straight edge across the whole surface of both the head and block , most likely the head - see if you can get a feeler gauge under your straight edge at any area or look for daylight between the 2.

I looked at mine - it's a Magnum and total travel is about 12 inches or thereabouts , from Neutral position back and forward seems to be about 6 inches each so I guess that is normal

Been running Bad boys for about 10 years now and never ran across this issue. Most of these zero turns have mechanical stops / adjustments on the arms to keep them equal for traveling in a straight line. If I had to guess you could shorten the arms so the travel would be less drastic , sounds...

Yeah guess I've been lucky but with free returns via Amazon it's a risk I'll probably keep dealing with

I can't count the number of carbs I got off Amazon - have not ran across a bad one yet

Nah, you need to correct that Idler angle, pull it and inspect the bracket I'll be you find your problem there

Any adjustment on the carb will be a slotted screw with a spring behind it for tension, these days most do not have any adjustment, you can run it without an air filter for a few minutes just for trouble shooting purposes without doing any damage. It's an easy test and only takes a few minutes ...

I hook a cord through the spring and pull into place

Sounds like you have a starter problem, pull it and jump 12 volts directly to it --- hold on tight b/c the torque will make it jump big time, if it does not , you got a bad starter.

No but .002 is pretty small clearance .020 would be my guess

Looks like the belt is Rolling and twisting, once they do that they keep on doing it I find. I'm not sure those Idlers have a up/down design but maybe so ,pull both and flip over to see if there's a difference I think if there's a side that is longer or sticking out more than the other side it...

Black smoke indicates unburnt fuel, it's flooding at full throttle it seems - not sure if there's a " high speed " adjustment on the carb or not but that's where I'd start. I'd try it without the air filter and see how it does - too much fuel is the same as too little air flow.

Not familiar with this exact machine but you've made a good start , no doubt the carb needed replacing as well as everything else you've done, I would install new fuel lines / filter if there is one as well, old gas will tend to varnish and stop up all sorts of things dry rot hoses and any other...

This should be checked before they deliver it, they'll run it and check everything for you , just to be on the safe side I'd double check all fluid levels and belt tightness

Pull them out and get the number off the bearing itself

The 2 wires straight off the Magneto should read something like 34 volts , into the voltage regulator , out of the voltage regulator should be something in the neighborhood of 14 plus I think, I can think of no reason this has anything to do with it not starting with a fully charged battery, you...

Pull the wires off the switches and use a meter to see if the circuit opens / closes when you operate the switch , it's a starting point

There is probably no way to grease this part, I just shoot some penetrant on mine every so often , the bushing or bearing is worn out , the bolt on the arm itself may be worn as well,

Something in your steering mechanism is pulling on your ground/ kill wire circuit

Roger that , pull the plug and spin it over should spin easily, coils have nothing to do with it spinning over or not

Battery

Look at the key switch , it should ground ignition in the Off Position , it should also drop power from the little Kill Solenoid under the carb.

Multimeter probably will not do what you want , you need a Battery Load tester, it will simulate a load for about 30 seconds or thereabouts and will tell you if your battery can take a load

Goin to need more information , if it spins over it's Cranking but wont start, If it's spinning over give it a shot of starting fluid in the air cleaner , if it hits and trys to run , it's a fuel problem if not it's ignition

Not cranking is not the same as not starting you'll need to be more specific

Disconnect everything and check your battery voltage first , should be 12 or thereabouts but not less, if 12volts present , look at your ground wire first, then go back to Solenoid and see if things change. If the Solenoid is not even trying ,it's a safety switch holding you out, to verify ...

Just throwing stuff at the wall now as you've exhausted nearly every possible thing, I think I would add some Marvel Mystery Oil to the gas tank and let it run through the system , it's going to smoke like hell for a while but maybe flush and lube all your inner workings in the system even new...

Well the Needle / Seat in the carb bowl controls the fuel input, Maybe the float is sticking in the UP position not allowing fuel to flow- I know you swapped the carb but the problem still exists so I'd pull the carb and check the float assembly anyway

Is this a gravity fed carb ? If not you have a fuel pump in the system and needs to be swapped out, you've done everything I would have - Diaphram fuel pumps go out periodically - basically 2 check valves that can get trash in the seat of one or the other and no flow - I keep an electric fuel...

I ran across the same issue with a Honda engine, Never noticed fuel doin what your video shows, there are a number of gaskets on the Honda machine between the carb and intake - they're to be installed exactly right or some ports get covered up and may possibly cause what you're seeing there...

All these switches go to their own relay and I think they may be in a Series circuit but not for certain , switch them around and see if the problem moves with the relay or goes away - I seem to recall my machine died when the seat switch activated also

If it still runs , no need to pull the flywheel, squeeling sounds would be a pully or belt, will need more information on what kind of mower this is

It's designed to run at any speed you choose , the governor is set to keep it from over revving, you have to run it enough to let the charging system do it's job in keeping the battery up. I rarely run my machines more than 3/4 throttle - just don't see the advantage of running anything wide...