Only getting 9.5 volts to Solenoid and can't jump to get it to turn

Dhoward1234

Forum Newbie
Joined
May 13, 2023
Threads
1
Messages
2
  • / Only getting 9.5 volts to Solenoid and can't jump to get it to turn
HI All,

I have a 2007 Kubota T1770 that will not start. There is no clicking but the lights will come on on the dash. Here is what I've tried so far:

Checked the battery at the posts and wires leading to solenoid it reads 12.8.
Negative from battery to positive on Solenoid reads 12.7 with multimeter
Can't jump the solenoid
Negative from battery to third pole reads 9.5v with key turned to start
Disconnecting or jumping the seat switch does not change voltage to third pole
Pulled switch and checked continuity for start, ground to each in run, and ground to magneto in off - everything checks out ok

Where do I go from here?
 

Bertrrr

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2021
Threads
5
Messages
570
  • / Only getting 9.5 volts to Solenoid and can't jump to get it to turn
Disconnect everything and check your battery voltage first , should be 12 or thereabouts but not less,
if 12volts present , look at your ground wire first, then go back to Solenoid and see if things change.
If the Solenoid is not even trying ,it's a safety switch holding you out, to verify , jump the solenoid posts and see if the starter kicks in - hope this helps or at least points to the right direction
 

Rivets

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Threads
60
Messages
15,355
  • / Only getting 9.5 volts to Solenoid and can't jump to get it to turn
Here is the electrical troubleshooting procedure I use to diagnose problems like yours. Report back with your findings and we’ll supply you with suggestions.

Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four things.
1. How well you understand basic electricity.
2. What tools you have and know how to use.
3. How well you follow directions.
4. You don't overlook or assume anything and verify everything.

Remember we cannot see what you are doing. You are our eyes, ears and fingers in solving this problem. You must be as accurate as you can when you report back. The two basic tools we will ask you to use are a test light and a multi-meter. If you have an assistant when going through these tests it would be very helpful. These steps work the best when done in order, so please don't jump around. Now let's solve this problem.
First, check the fuse(s), check battery connections for corrosion (clean if necessary) and voltage - above 12.5 volts should be good. Check and make sure the chassis ground is clean and tight.
Second, check for power from the battery to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. One of the wires is connected directly to the battery and has power all the time so one of the large terminals should light a test light or show 12 volts on a meter at all times.
Third, check for power at the small terminal of the solenoid while depressing the clutch/brake pedal and holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch). If your solenoid is a four wire solenoid, check both small wire terminals as one is ground and the other is power from the ignition switch. If your solenoid is a three wire solenoid, make sure the solenoid body is not corroded where it bolts to the chassis of the mower as this is your ground path back to the battery. If in doubt, remove the solenoid and clean the mounting area down to bare metal. If there is no power to the small terminal then your problem is most likely a safety switch, ignition switch or in the wiring.
Fourth, check for power on the other large terminal of the solenoid while holding the key in the start position (you may need an assistant to sit in the seat to override the safety switch).
Fifth, check for power at the starter while holding the key in the start position (assistant again).
Sixth, check your ground circuit back to the battery.
After you have gone through each of the above steps, let us know what happened when you did each step. At that point we will have great info to tell you how to proceed. Remember you are our eyes, ears, and fingers, so please be as accurate as possible.
Be as specific as possible with voltage readings as this will help diagnose your problem quicker. If you do not know how to perform the above checks, just ask and I will try to guide you through it. Youtube also has some videos and as you know a picture is worth a thousand words.
 

Dhoward1234

Forum Newbie
Joined
May 13, 2023
Threads
1
Messages
2
  • / Only getting 9.5 volts to Solenoid and can't jump to get it to turn
Thanks for your advice. Even though the battery from Rural King is only a few months old, showed 12.8 volts, and battery charger/maintainer showed it was a good battery when I went to load test the battery on start (only when the multimeter was attached to the wiring on the tractor side not the battery itself) the tractor turned over. I just needed to replace the new battery from Rural King. Guess I learned a couple of lessons. First off I'm getting a multimeter that has a battery test on it, second new battery doesn't mean good battery.
 

slomo

Lawn Pro
Joined
Jul 14, 2019
Threads
78
Messages
5,126
  • / Only getting 9.5 volts to Solenoid and can't jump to get it to turn
First off I'm getting a multimeter that has a battery test on it,
Take the battery to any auto parts store. They will test for free. No need to buy a special tool for this unless you have a mower shop.
second new battery doesn't mean good battery.
True true true.........
 

sgkent

Lawn Addict
Joined
Sep 27, 2017
Threads
33
Messages
1,695
  • / Only getting 9.5 volts to Solenoid and can't jump to get it to turn
A battery can show voltage with no load on it, and still drop considerably when a load is put on it. Always read the voltage both ways. Next, if a very large load is placed on a battery, that will pull the voltage down too - just the same as pulling a large load with a vehicle up a hill. Small load, small drop in voltage, larger load equals a larger drop in voltage. The smaller capacity the battery the more it will drop in voltage under that load just like a small engine has less ability to pull a large load up a hill. Always make sure the engine can turn over by hand. If the engine is hung/frozen, or the starter bad, you can have a perfectly good battery but the load pulls it down. Same if there are dirty or corroded connections. It is like having a bad clutch or slipping tires. If the power can't get to the starter, it is still there but not able to be used.
 

Bertrrr

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2021
Threads
5
Messages
570
  • / Only getting 9.5 volts to Solenoid and can't jump to get it to turn
Multimeter probably will not do what you want , you need a Battery Load tester, it will simulate a load for about 30 seconds or thereabouts and will tell you if your battery can take a load
 

Rivets

Lawn Royalty
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Threads
60
Messages
15,355
  • / Only getting 9.5 volts to Solenoid and can't jump to get it to turn
The “IN THE FARMERS SHED WAY TO LOAD TEST A BATTERY”. Hook your VOM meter to the battery and try to start the unit. If the starter draw drops battery voltage (on a fully charged battery) while cranking below 10 VDC your battery should be replaced.
 
Top