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1294 is a Briggs motor, but it seems like a pressure washer, while tb360 is a troybilt mower. I found a user manual, https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2392408/Troy-Bilt-Tb360.html?page=15#manual Starting instructions don't mention choke, so probably autochoke. I'd take off the air filter and...

Duplicate post.

No problem Dave, we just remind everyone, as lots of people don't give good identification when they post their problems.

Welcome Dave. When you post a question, please include engine model numbers from the tag on engine. That way we can access correct information to assist you.

Check choke operation. Supply motor model number from mower so folks can give more specific help.

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Is the solenoid separate from the battery? When you used the jump starter, were you connecting direct to starter? If so, looks like starter is bad. You can check the solenoid and see if voltage is delivered to the starter terminal when key is switched to start.

Welcome. If you post a question about it, please provide model and serial number of the machine, and if it's an engine question, provide engine info. The machine manufacturer is rarely the engine maker.

First, do what sgkent and ilengine recommended. Second, when you "jump the solenoid" are you connecting a jumper between the 2 big connectors on the solenoid? That should bypass the solenoid, and crank the engine. If it does not, you aren't getting the power you need.

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Welcome Clayton. If you have a mower question, please include model/serial numbers. If it is an engine question, include engine model info.

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Welcome

I don't see any videos. My opinion on the fuel tank comes from it running well for 15 minutes, then missing. Coils can also heat up and cause problems, but you did say you replaced them. Where did the coils come from?

What have you done with the fuel system? I suspect crud in fuel tank. When engine's not running, it may settle in the tank, so engine starts, and runs until crud builds up on fuel pickup, then engine runs like crap. I'd clean out the tank, pull the pickups and clean, and make sure fuel flows...

Thanks for the update.

There's a tag on your mower with model and serial number. Please provide those so we can check documentation to assist you.

No, it doesn't mean that. Could be though. You need to check the safety switches and the ignition switch. There's a wire from the ignition to the solenoid that needs to get voltage when the key goes to start. Make sure you're engaging the seat switch when you check the ignition. If it gets...

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Welcome! When you ask a question, please include the mower model and serial number, and the engine manufacturer and model, so people can look up specifics to assist you.

I'm not surprised, was just kinda hoping...

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What's on the other end of that shaft? If you remove what's left of that bolt, can it come apart there?

If the problem comes back, fish the pickup/filter/check valve out of the tank and clean it. I had one that was clogging intermittently until I did that.

That should definitely help.

I see that a bunch have disappeared, but don't know how. I thought it was the power to move threads, but I didn't find a spam forum to move them to.

Now that a number of us have the power to move threads, is there a spam forum? I looked and didn't see an obvious destination for it.

There are a number of fuel problems that don't always interfere with starting. If fuel flows, but not enough, it starts, then starts starving. The needle valve/float, and fuel pickup in the tank can both do this Whenever you're troubleshooting, it's best to do basic fuel testing. It doesn't...

Check belts, make sure you didn't break a belt, make sure blades turn freely. If you turn on the key and engage pto. Do you hear a click/thump?

If it was seldom used, it could easily have carb issues, and still start easy. I'd start by pulling fuel line from carb, and checking flow. If sluggish, blow compressed air into fuel line and try again. If there's a filter, replace. Next I'd pull the bowl from the carb, and clean the bowl...

Thanks Star Tech.

Is it the pulley that wobbles, or is it in the gearbox. It looks like the shaft is solidly attached. That would make the problem in the box, bearings/bushings.

If the engine was running, it should have been more than 12.2 V. Another thing to check is to shut off the mower and check. Sounds like you're not charging though.

Check all safety switches. Seat switch, reverse switch(shuts off my engine if PTO is engaged) The manual indicates both of these switches shut down engine with blades engaged. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/506489/Mtd-13ao771h055.html?page=15#manual

Did you check the connection to the PTO clutch? Unplug it, and clean the connection and see what happens. When it disengages, what happens next? Can you cycle the switch and restart the blades? Please supply the model number and serial off the mower tag, in case anyone needs to check...

The red and white plastic is to restrict adjustment of the mixture screws. They are the black, under the red and white. I found https://www.manualslib.com/manual/183929/Troy-Bilt-Tb90bc.html?page=22#manual but it doesn't touch adjusting mixture screws. I searched, and found a couple of...

Yes, I looked at the picture. From the angle, I couldn't clearly see the top, and whether there was a screw head. The lock may have been the travel limiter I referred to. I'd look for a better manual. I agree that they really had very little about adjusting mixture.

Normally it's just a small/jeweler's screwdriver. From the doc Rivets posted clockwise leaner, counter richer. Normally clockwise will hit a dead stop. It's a good idea to note where the setting is. Turn clockwise to stop, note how many turns, use that as starting point. I didn't see a...

That can do it.

Did you try adjusting mixture? Check service manual Rivets linked.

What have you done to diagnose? Voltage regulator is suspect, could be various issues with wiring. You may have already done this, but I'd check/clean all battery/solenoid connections, connections to ignition switch etc. Voltmeter on battery, before starting, running, after running, etc.

I would replace the fuel lines. The primer can draw from the carb to the tank. That can end up pumping more air than you'd expect. If it starts well, I'd assume the prime system is working. Where was the filter you replaced? Was it in the tank? Check on what Rivets said too.

Have you checked the fuel pickup and fuel lines? It sure seems like it's not getting enough fuel.

Just in case, check fuel flow to pump and to carb. Pull line from tank to pump and see if it flows. If it does, replace, and go to carb. If not, blow into fuel line with compressor and try again. If it's better, clean tank and fuel pickup. Next pull line from carb, crank engine and see if...

So, engine stopped running? What happens trying to restart? If it suddenly completely quit, sounds electrical. Check the safety switches, battery connections, fuses, etc. I suspect seat switch. My mower had a safety on the grass chute that always tripped.

Duplicate

It looks like there's a hole under the link.

It's a good idea to change the oil, if fuel has been leaking into it. Watch out for cheap shutoffs, some need to flow one direction, and it's not always marked. They can also start leaking, so keep that in mind. I just had to replace one of mine for leaking.

Definitely check on that cable, and I'd check the solenoid/ignition switch as well. What I was talking about with the remote solenoid is that lots of them have easily accessed connectors, unlike yours. I figured you understood about remote.

Well Pete, that's a remote that's less accessible. I'd check the solenoid wiring and function. Disconnect from starter, connect battery. Check for voltage at the solenoid starter terminal with key off, on, and in start. Obviously, it should only have voltage with key in start position. If...