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You'll need to pull the cable off completely, Pull it tight around a round surface back and forth to break up the rust inside the cable sheath - you should be able to free up the inner cable and lube it up with some penetrant and or grease.

The numbers you have read are about right, why are you checking out the voltage to start with ? Has your battery been goin down? I've never heard of a higher output stator or the need for one but someone on this site may have. Are you looking at the output with the machine revved up ? I know...

Blow back through the fuel line , you should hear air bubbles in the tank , you'll probably get flow after this but you'll still need to clean out the tank , there is likely some trash in there that has worked its way to the fuel outlet

Did you manage to get any of the pullies off, or are they all stubborn ? Could possibly be left handed thread although I've not seen any so far on anything I worked on. If all else fails you may have to cut the nut off.

Use an impact and you can hold it easily with a rag or gloves

Unless the spindle housing is damaged , the bearings are very cheap and easy to change. Pull it apart and look at the number on the bearing - I usually pull the inner seal on the bearings and drill the housing to enable greasing the assembly. I think I got 3 pairs on amazon for under 20$

I pulled all my relays and re wired it from scratch, No safeties after this modification though.

Not sure what you mean by .007 1/4 past tdc

Clean up the Carb and re try

There are 2 levers on the backside that will allow you to push the mower or move it without running, when they're in the normal position you cannot move the machine manually , if they're in the bypass position you can move it but it will not move on it's own b/c the transmission is bypassed.

Did your transmission by pass get moved into bypass position ?

That's a sign of starving for fuel when you have to choke it to run, go back through the fuel supply starting with the tank vent

There should be a cable clamp that secures the cable so the internal rod can react with the choke plate

If it fires when touching off to ground , it's firing while installed. you may have a fuel problem or your key is sheared at the flywheel throwing off your timing

Safety switches interrupt the starting circuit so nothing happens when one of them is triggered , some are normally open and some are normally closed. If your machine is spinning and trying to start , it's not a safety switch problem yours sounds like a fuel issue, shoot some starting fluid in...

Check the ground connection first , then re install the module that was firing and see what direction that takes you , it's probably not a safety switch b/c it wouldn't even turn over.

Sounds like a fuel issue , start by looking at the filter first then supply lines that may be cracked or dry rotted then move on to the carb. It is not an ignition problem so concentrate on fuel

First prove it's the switch then either get a replacement or re wire if necessary , apply 12 volts to the selonoid terminal where the ignition switch hooks up , if it kicks in , you have a bad switch or wire then go from there Any starter switch will probably work , all you need is 12 volts...

I'd clean the old original carb really good and re install to see what difference it makes

Look at the governor linkage and make sure it's free and not binding , it sounds like if you choke it quick enough it keeps running so I'd think maybe the governor is not reacting quick enough or you may have a carburator problem. Has this gotten worse over time or all of a sudden doing this ?

I would start by testing your ignition switch , I've seen new ones that failed right out of the box, Test the switch with it on the bench with 12volts applied to the battery terminal and watch your meter / test light through all the positions.

Do you have an electric PTO or is it manually engaged ?

Does it fall on it's face or does it begin to die slowly like it cant recover from the sudden load of the blade action ? Most of these you need to rev up almost full throttle when engaging the blades

A vacumn fuel pump has 3 connections one to the crankcase , one to the fuel supply and the other goes to the carb,

Unless you find something very obvious just install an new gasket and keep right on mowing

I've replaced a few but $780 is WAY too much , look on amazon

Being your compression was good on both cylinders, I'd say your valves are ok without being lapped in, When you get the flywheel nut off you should be able to see the keyway / key profile, I've never run across one even slightly sheered and have it run but never say never in this game. You may...

Sounds like the valves are set right and compression verifies it. This back fire happens after it dies or you shut it down or does it just start running bad and backfiring all of a sudden ? It's possible the flywheel key got sheered and threw off your ignition timing , never saw one run with...

If it will run on one cylinder at a time , do that and see which one is causing the backfire , back fire at the muffler indicates unburnt fuel hitting the hot exhaust, through the carb would indicate an intake valve not sealing in my opinion , you said you installed new valves - did you use...

Sounds like a fuel pump or carb problem , I'd make sure the fuel pump is working first off , then look at the carb

You should notice some sort of compression coming from the spark plug hole but might have to almost close off the whole opening only letting a tiny bit of blow by. Were the plugs clean when you removed them ? Burnt looking or dry and gray ? Black looking plugs indicate no fire, gray and clean...

Lots of small gas engines do not have an oil filter , you just need to change oil more often

Pull your plugs and run a compression test , hot valve cover on one side might indicate a burnt exhaust valve How was it running before this issue ? A little history on the machine will go a long way in trouble shooting what's goin on now. If you don't have a compression tester stick your...

If your push rods are bent it's because something got between the piston and the valves or somehow the valve timing got out of wack. Never seen this and had an engine still run. You'll need to pull the head and valves / push rods etc. and inspect completely and also try and determine why it...

Pull the spark plug and you can easily pull the cord and watch for reaction

There is probably a kill solenoid under the carb bowl that needs 12 volts from the ignition switch , you should hear it click when you turn it to the On position. Check with a test light to see if it's getting a signal.

Try that again while touching off on ground with your hand , if it is a good spark it should make your muscles react

Did you set the gap on the coil / magneto ? Not sure what the setting is but probably .010-.020 or thereabouts to start and see if it generates a spark,

Remove it and take a few pics , go on Amazon and begin your search for a briggs engine carburator, compare each until it matches up with yours , I've found a few replacements like this

Make sure you don't have a bad or binding deck pully first , if that's free pull the belt off the pto and engage while watching it spin / or not and see how the engine reacts. There could be a safety switch shorting out or some such.

You probably still have a dirty carb which comes from a dirty fuel system , tank, fuel lines, filter etc. if the carb was dirty at first and the tank and fuel supply system wasn't cleaned up too ,it got contaminated again I'd say

Stator is either bad or dirty, clean up really well try again and make sure your meter is on the right scale when testing

I've never seen this but if you can spin your deck by hand - I would spin each one individually and see how it sounds and feels - you can tell if one is dragging or not. But having said that and you're confident there is nothing binding there, pull your PTO wires off and run a separate 12vt...

Is there a deck spindle binding up or a bad bearing somewhere ?

DC voltage should be around 14 I think, Don't think it normally fluctuates but needs nearly full throttle to be up there. There are some good videos on Utube for testing the voltage.

Well if it's running at all the flywheel key is not a problem, sounds like you're moving in the right direction , only runs at low rpm if the linkage is moving the throttle plate then you probably have a carb problem.

Pull your breather and see if the problem persists

I think I've read on here there are conversion kits to get around this keypad garbage

Sounds like a fuel supply issue start at the tank and work back to carb , filter - hoses- pump etc

I've gotten a number of carbs off Amazon and most have fit the bill just fine, maybe just been lucky but having said that just because you swapped the carb does not mean you've eliminated the carb as an issue.