**SOLVED ** ...Rider YTH21K46 won't start, won't shut down, even with new switch and new solenoid..READ

[kingofammo]

Fine for 12 years then one day it would not shut down, and then wouldn't key start ..installed new switch and new solenoid but no change..
SYMPTOMS and CHECKS ...> meter doesn't light, jump starts on Run or ROS, then runs with switch in any position, ROS position works, will shut down only with key off of ROS while engaging blade and reverse, meter checked wires from switch to solenoid and starter all intact, fuse good, mouse damage on fuel pump wire (repaired) but no where else seen, the 3 wire headlight cable open connector was cut off by mower ...
NEED help diagnosing wiring diagram schematic checks for hidden faults please

 

[Bertrrr]

I would start by testing your ignition switch , I've seen new ones that failed right out of the box, Test the switch with it on the bench with 12volts applied to the battery terminal and watch your meter / test light through all the positions.

 

[Rivets]

First thing you need to check is do you have the correct key switch? Dozens of switches look the same, but are not interchangeable. Look at the back of the switches, side by side, and make sure each terminal is labeled the same.

 

[StarTech]

In this Case it is a Delta 6900-49P switch. The 49 should moulded into the side of the switch.

The following is the make/break table.

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

In this Case it is a Delta 6900-49P switch. The 49 should moulded into the side of the switch.

The following is the make/break table.
View attachment 67091

If mouse damage was seen in one area, then double checking the wiring for intermittent short would be a good idea. Time to get out a multimeter and test light. Diagnosing an electrical problem from online ain’t easy and requires patience and steps on your part.

 

[kingofammo]

UPDATES & TESTS CHECKS...switch is original Husqv, though same make/break as StarTech shows, see my actual schematic attached...
TESTED switch with G to negative and touched all contacts with battery positive, results: were all open circuits on Run, ROS and Start switch positions , but M and A1 tested closed circuit in the OFF switch position .
Further notes... will not jump start with switch in off position.
Solenoid clicks in on bench test but will not activate when + contact hot wired on machine .
There's an open 3 wire harness leading to headlights, but Note diagram and common sense says only need 2 wires...where does the extra line go ?

 

[StarTech]

Well it sounds like you have VOM so at the "B" terminal test for 12v. If not present then voltage is not making to the switch ie connection somewhere like a bad fuse holder.

If present then with ignition in any position other than off see if you have 12v on the "A" terminal. These checks are reference to ground. If not present it possible the one of the F56 terminals has failed. F56 terminal are spring loaded and this spring does break and makes loose contacts.

Most older mower have these F56 terminal but newer ones are switching to another style terminal. Mainly because they are cheaper for them to buy.

On the headlamp lead harness just make three wires are not touching anything including each other.

 

[kingofammo]

SIr where are the F56 terminals and what do they look like please ?

 

[StarTech]

They inside the connector housings.

And you need your wife's bobby pin to remove them.

 

[kingofammo]

Any guess which one or two of my switch harness F56's it might be bad given my symptoms ?
If there broken where can I get a replacement, and could I rig another type of clip in ?
THANKS very much for your help !!