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Check all your connections first and test the battery, Sometimes a hot engine is harder to roll over

How was / is your fuel level ? Tanks have baffles to maintain level fuel when using the machine but sitting at an angle it will all migrate to the lowest point, which may not be where your inlet is at that time

Use an Olm meter , switches are either normally open or normally closed , activate the switch and watch your meter to see what is what. If it's normally open , disconnect it , normally closed , hook a jumper and close it .

I would by pass all the safeties first then narrow it down to which one is causing this , There is one one each arm, the brake and seat for sure and they all are wired to relays which could be the culprit

Well start looking at ignition and or fuel problems, shoot a little starting fluid in the air cleaner and see if it fires off , if it does,,,it's a fuel problem , if not ----- igntion and go from there

You sheared the key on the flywheel, you'll need to pull the flywheel off the machine

Is it smoking when it loses power ? What does the air cleaner look like ?

That's using your head dude

Don't know of a KIT to replace engine mounting bolts,,,,,,,if there are any remaining , take one to the auto parts and find a matching bolt or bolts and replace them , if they vibrated out, you may have other issues as well. I've had to customize wrenches when there is no other way to get at...

You have a governor linkage issue ,something came loose a spring etc. if it's running away,,,,,,,the govenor has lost control ,

I've gotten some off amazon for decent prices,,,,,,the bearings are really cheap, like 6 for 15 bux or thereabouts , just pull them off and get a number , easy

Well , for an engine to run has to have 1 - Fuel 2- Compression 3- Fire 4- Timing Go down the list and see what's missing , Did you happen to hit something ? it can shear the flywheel key a bit and that's all it takes for your timing to be off and it aint running for anyone ...

Just because it has a full tank don't mean it's getting to the Carb / engine intake ......start from there and work backwards

Fuel

The Crankcase will be split at the bottom part of your engine, if it's oily residue towards the top , I suspect it's from a breather plate or tube that's venting from the crankcase or valve stem area. Unless you're having to add a bunch of oil to the machine , I would just keep an eye on it for...

All depends on the machine The belt guards for sure , I use a sturdy stick or anything I can get a good grip on to stretch the spring,

I hook one end into the fit, Wrap a cord around the other end and tie the other end of the cord to a stiff screw driver or handle and pull until it goes where it needs to .

Better figure out why the rod is bent first , they don't bend without a good reason , What ever caused it to bend is the main problem you're going to have to deal with

Carb cleaner does not have the lubricant to loosen it up, clean it up then use something like WD 40 and work it till it frees up and make sue it's not bent also

When you have it off the machine You'll be able to tell what's worn visually I'd imagine, clamp it tight and apply 12 volts via jumper cables or some such , one end to the housing the other just touch off on the connector, it will / should spin like hell and tell you something, you don't need to...

i have gotten several from amazon without problems

Pull it and lube it up, it's probably on it's last legs , starters are not very expensive , sounds like this one has given you about all it can .

Is this a mechanical PTO or Electric ? If electric I'm thinking you have a short to ground in the PTO circuit

I would get a ZTR with a Kohler or Kawasaki twin cylinder engine , Been using Bad boys for years with no problems, Not a fan of Kubota mowers might be just me but the ones I've had to work on were harder to service than the bad boys or Huskys

One is probably the ground, the other one is wired into the key switch - use a test light on the plus side of the battery and see which one makes the light come on, that will be the ground , now put 12 volts on the other smaller one , this will bypass all the safeties,,,,,ignition switch etc and...

There are 2 large terminals on the Solenoid , jumping across those will send 12 volts directly to the starter and it should spin,,,,,,,this only tells you the starter is good ,,,,,by jumping 12 volts to the small contact on the solenoid should make it engage and spin also ......if it does spin...

yeah

I hook one end where it's supposed to go and run a Sash cord around the other end and pull it with a heavy rod until it's stretched enough to get into the other fit,

There are 2 clicking noises you should notice, one--------in the on position ,,,,you should notice a click at the carburator fuel shut off solenoid ,,,,,,,,,,2 weather or not your machine is running you should hear a click at the PTO when you engage that switch,,,,,,,,,, 3 --- when you hit the...

I wouldn't think the seat is a problem - if it's using oil, maybe your valve guides are worn and I think they may be built into the block and not replaceable.

Not the PTO, look at all your connections , check for corrosion and clean up everything,

My usual reply here is " don't fix what aint broke" so I'd start there

Any time you have to engage the choke to keep it running , it's a fuel problem, start at the tank , fuel lines, filter, then fuel pump if there's one on that machine,,,,,,,then carburator. Post your results

It's all good now , glad you're going again

Well it either fires or it doesn't even if it looks good , if you ground the end and spin the machine you should see a spark , if no spark it may be a coil problem. The plug does look in new condition but it would look like that if there's no fire also.

If your belt is in good condition and tight , might take a closer look at your clutch , you never know Also look at the spindles and make sure there's no binding on any of them.

New blades maybe bigger strain on the belt , might need a new belt, if it's squealing and it's tight, Get a new one

The clutch has electric engagement so pulling the connection off takes it out of play , if it still binds up the engine so it will not start,,,,,,,, either you have a battery or connection problem or possibly an engine problem. It's possible the clutch is causing the problem but to be honest...

Pull the wires " connection " Off the clutch, Start your mower - this will eliminate the pto from your machine, if all goes well , let us know and we'll go forward from there, I've never seen a PTO locking up in all my previous mechanical issues. ----------- especially 2 times on the same...

We're going to need more information with your machine and it's issues before anyone can point you in the right direction

If you followed my post you should know if your solenoid / switch / or connection is the culprit

Hop 12 volts to the small terminal on the solenoid ,if it kicks into start, the solenoid is good but you have a bad switch or connection

Safety's ?

if it restarts again , you have a fuel delivery problem.

if it restarts again , you have a fuel delivery problem.

I've rewired a few machines and just did away with all the safety switches, makes life simple

No downside to adding an oil cooler

Battery operated Mowers will never hold up long term, IMOP- This Green Agenda is only lining some politician's pockets , Just my 2 cts

Garbage

Camshafts rarely wear out but it's possible no doubt, I've seen them with a " groove " worn into the hard surface which will effect the valve action - this would have to have a ton of hours to have happened, but today's quality control is iffy so nothing is off the table in this day and age...