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Look it up on Amazon , for replacement parts for that machine,

There are small terminals on your solenoid , one is ground the other comes from your key switch, and should have 12 volts when you turn the key , if it sees 12 volts and does not engage the solenoid and turn the engine over , it's your solenoid . you can jump 12 volts straight to that terminal...

You going to need another flywheel no matter what , how did this happen ? did the starter get changed at some point and begin chewing up the flywheel , it would have made a sound like grinding or something , I've never run across this in the past

If it's a metal sheath , I've cut the outer sheath before and then cut the inner cable to length , you'll need to re bend the end to fit the carb linkage and that's a little tricky ,

make sure your routing is correct , the old belt was surely stretched a bit , it's easy to route the belt wrong

If it wont fire with ignition fluid , you have an ignition problem , clean up the coil and flywheel area with some emery paper , pull the plug and ground to watch for a spark , should be good healthy spark not weak, if you don't see anything, -- I hold the coil wire and pull the starting rope...

Sounds like a bad connection somewhere, when you push the mower , the piston is not moving so that's not the issue

You should have 12 volts coming into the clutch engagement switch , if not work backwards to find out where the voltage drop is .

I tried some E85 fuel on mine and had to use the choke to keep it running , not sure about the 15% ethanol stuff..

Make sure it's not left hand thread , if you snap off the head , you'll be drilling out the broken bolt and that's no picnic , I have not seen a left hand thread on the clutch drive but you never know

This was a problem for Spartan machines , they actually sell a kit to bypass / work around this key pad Screwup I chose not to buy one for this reason , not sure where to get the kit but sure someone on the tube will address it

I just turn it upside down and try to blow through the fuel inlet , you should not be able to push air through it , then turn it right side up and do the same thing , air should flow easily, if pass all test , take apart and look at the jet , pull and clean , you should be able to see the hole...

Test your Clutch engagement Switch , with the key on and switch engaged you should see 12 volts at the switch , if you do , then chase the wires to where they go to the clutch itself and see where the power drops off . may just be the switch , some have extra terminals and you can just move...

Fuel solenoid only shuts off fuel supply , if it's a safety switch it will not allow the starter to engage

Not sure of your skill level but When I run across wiring issues , I start from scratch with new wires to simplify everything You need 12 vts to the ignition key switch , from the On position voltage should go to the clutch engagement switch then to the clutch, also power from the same...

So if I understand you right, it spins over after it stops but will not fire, after 30 min or so it cranks off with no problems , If it was a safety switch it wouldn't spin at all , It however could be a low oil level safety which will not let it start, after sitting for a time , the oil...

Verify it's getting fuel , it must have a spark if it ran for a few minutes, fuel lines tend to collapse and or dry rot if it's sat around for a few years

I've mostly gotten good carbs off Amazon , once in a while you get a bad one but most times they'll take it back , try them again

If there's no click with the key " on " check for power at the terminal on it, use a test light- no light , work back towards the key switch - it will not run unless it opens to allow fuel flow

If it has a choke you can see it close / open when you activate the lever. Compare it to the action on your original carb, Lots of carbs now days only have a primer bulb

Check battery voltage and starter connections first , the click you hear is probably the solenoid

Does it smoke when running ? Does it idle rough or run rough at all speeds ? Has anything been done to the machine prior to this ?

If it's a safety switch you wouldn't even get a click. it sounds like a bad ground connection or battery connection . Clean everything and try again.

Here is the parts diagram for the one I worked on , maybe it will shed some light, I also have the parts list for it if you need

Pull it off the machine , bring it to any Kubota dealer and they can show you a breakdown of all the internals and price replacement parts, you may find something on ebay as to a used gearbox - I'll be willing to bet a new replacement box would be costly .

No way is this a good Idea.

Going to need more information like model , year etc. If it's the one I'm thinking about , it can be rebuilt - I've done a couple of them - Parts have to come from Kubota - gears, bearings, seals a shaft if necessary. post a few pics as well .

Fixing it is doable but finding out why is more important ,this is a major failure that rarely happens

Jack it up and try the shifter and watch the drive belt / pullys to figure out where the problem is ,

All types of oil have a spec sheet , your owners manual will specify what your machine requires, There will be something compatible

I ran into this with the same engine, I think there is a design flaw on this model , mine threw the rod and busted the crankcase.

There are safety switches on each of the leavers you mentioned

Clean the carb

Better look at the fuel supply side , hoes etc. drop fuel supply into a fresh container of fuel and see what happens

check your belt

Look at the spec sheet on both, mainly the footprint / mounting bolts , shaft size etc.

what size is the largest one ? If it's under 2 inches in diameter , the O ring kit will probably have it

Not sure what size the o rings are but an O ring kit may have one you can replace it with , I've had to build o rings in the past with o ring stock and superglue when push comes to shove

Pull the motor and remove the seal, there should be a number on it for replacement , I'd get 2 so you'll have a spare

By the bottom are you referring to the crankshaft ? is the piston going up and down ? , Pull the spark plug and watch your piston to see if it's moving, it should roll very easy with no compression , you can put a rod through the plug hole and watch it move with the piston , if no movement you...

Will it roll 360 degrees in any direction ?

I worked on one and found the drive motors were missing some bolts, throwing belts and stuff, maybe look at your mounting hardware in that area

So it does not turn over ? or doesn't start ? two different problems for the help you need

Sounds like ignition switch issue, after the starter is engaged it should return to ON position and retain power to the ignition coils , they're not expensive to replace

Drain and change your oil first, if there's gas in the filter, there's gas in the sump too. Can only get in there from the carburator as far as I am aware. You should see higher than normal oil level when gas is present. Sometimes this happens when your machine is sitting over night or for a...

If the flywheel key is only slightly sheared , it aint starting

Not sure there is any air / fuel ration adjustment but I agree with Slomo assessment, be sure your air cleaner is clean also. Running rich will not give you blue smoke in my opinion, running rich will not run well at all and will be struggling to keep at idle too.

If you have a bent push rod , there's a reason , you need to pull the head and look at the piston.

Does it surge under load when cutting Grass or just running at idle

Does your Idler pully float or is it stuck in one position