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I would suggest Toro MyRide system, great for your back. Make sure you take a test ride after checking this site. https://www.toro.com/en/homeowner/riding-mowers/timecutter-mowers?CurrentPage=1&filter=a77f0334-62ec-4fcf-ab2d-623593288648-filtertext-TimeCutter+MyRide#content

Reported this guy

Did you check to see if the magnets on the new flywheel were in the exact same location as the old flywheel in reference to the keyway? More than once I’ve seen a DIY guy replace a flywheel with magnets in a different location. You still get spark, but at the wrong time.

Any time I change points I always spray with brake cleaner, then blow them off with air before installing the cover. That way I know everything is clean and dry.

Replaced too many of them. The cause was not dirt or sand. Cause was wrong size gears and axle alignment.

Look under the seat for the model and serial numbers. You have to lift up the seat.

Star, do the units with 42”, 46”, and 50” decks all use the same tranny?. I don’t like wasting my time looking up each model to answer this question, as my crystal ball is out of order. If the OP wants help he can supply us with numbers. This will also tell us if he is smart enough to open a...

Post the model and serial numbers for your unit. We hate it when we have to guess which one of the hundred different models branded as Cub Cadet. Will tell you that on 99% of the models you have to remove the transmission and open it up to replace an axle.

The drive wheels on a Toro are different than those on other mowers. They use a different size drive gear, less teeth, smaller gear size. Because of that the gear on the wheels are larger. Because of this the alignment between the drive gear and wheel gear has a closer tolerance. Toro’s...

Front wheel drive systems on the Toro 20377 are junk. You are lucky to get 2 years out of the drive wheels becausee t they have plastic gears, and against a metal drive gear. Depending on how much it is used I’ve seen them go out in 6 months This is the main reason I recommend keeping the...

The needle and seat kit you are using contains a new needle, why aren’t you installing the new needle? Are you installing the seat with the ridges toward the carb body? I’ve found that it is better to test for leaks with the carb in the operating position, with fuel applying pressure on the...

Slomo, look closely and you’ll see that the plastic case is gone. Your suggestion will only work once the insulated case is replaced.

That terminal connection should have a plastic cover around it so it doesn’t short out when inserted into the square hole. The plastic cover, which is gone, holds the connector in the square hole. You can see black parts of it in your third picture. You can make your own connector, or...

Might be worth dropping a dime to this company. https://www.yarmandstore.com/oempartfinder?aribrand=MTD&arian&_gl=1*dp4m6e*_gcl_au*MTUxNTA2NjM0OS4xNzc5MzIxMzY3*_ga*NDgzODAwMjc4LjE3NzkzMjEzNjc.*_ga_ELRRHHB45S*czE3NzkzMjEzNjckbzEkZzAkdDE3NzkzMjEzNzUkajUyJGwwJGg0Njk1NjI3NDY.

We used Simple Green for years and never had a problem.

That’s because those tractors were built for Toro for a couple of years before Toro decided to get out of the tractor line. In my opinion they were pieces of junk. Was working at a Toro dealership and we stoppped selling selling them. Think their experiment lasted five years. Warranty work...

toro part number 190-180-190

Yes, that is the easiest way to accomplish your task.

I can’t believe I’m ssaying this as a Toro guy, but looking at the two models, I would keep the Honda.

With the Briggs you replace both the needle and seat, which should get you very close to getting the float level. In my years I’ve figured out a way to adjust plastic floats, but I’m not going to post for all to see, as many DIY guys will not do it right and end up buying a new float.

Float needle is stuck open. Time to clean and rebuild the carb with a knew float needle and seat. Here’s a procedure I taught my students. Needle and seat replacement. Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets...

Try this. https://techcomm.rehlko.com/techcomm/pdf/32_690_03_EN.pdf

You need to find the source of the leak first. First thing I would do is to pressure wash the entire unit and make everything is clean and very dry. Second I would run the unit looking for oil leaking out. From your pics it could be anywhere, from top ( lhead or valve cover gaskets) to bottom...

That’s why I always say start with the simple things first. A couple of years experience have taught me to that. A no charge fix instead of an $$$$ inexperienced tech looking in the wrong direction. Glad you found the solution.

When you cleaned the carb, did you replace the float needle and seat? You must also reset the float level. I’ve attached a procedure I taught my students to follow when doing carb service. Hope this helps. When you cleaned the carb, did you replace the float needle and seat? You must also...

Don’t go after the flywheel key until you check the easier external parts. I suspect the governor setup has changed, reducing rpm speed. Please post a couple of pics of the carb a governor linkage.

I suggest that you start by reading the section on carburation, section 3 in the manual I attached. Look carefully at the part which talks about how to preload the diaphragm while assembling. Second, yyou should check the levelness of the tank where the carb is mounted. If it is warped the...

Try this. www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/Engine_Carburator/81644210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

I don’t see where anyone posted about a fuel issue. All I see is two replies asking for numbers. I guess typing a new thread is easier than giving us model and serial numbers for the unit and engine..

Rev, 7 psi is the standard used by experienced techs for the last 50 years. 1-1.5 psi will result in carb leaking, especially on rough terrain

Why are you posting the same thread that you posted yesterday? This will not help you in any way. What you need to do is provide the information requested in the other thread. Posting identical threads is frowned upon and doesn’t make you look like you can handle the problem.

Please post the model and serial numbers for boTh the engine and unit so we have an idea of what yet ou are working on. What out those numbers we are only guessing what you need.

About 10 years ago I had this same problem and found that the oil return ports into the crankcase, behind the seals, were plugged. This would allow oil pressure to build up, blowing out the seal. Luckily I was doing this repair at home so I didn’t have to charge shop rate for 10-12 hours or...

With your serial number your unit is either a 2003 or 2013 model. If your model number ends in 2 or 3 your unit will probably have a Honda engine. If it ends with a 4 it will probably have a Lomcin engine. Here is a service manual for the Loncin engine. https://www.toro.com/getpub/70678...

You are missed thhe last number in the madel. I’m assuming you have a Honda engine so there are two things I would check. First check to see if the choke is fully closed at start up. If it is closing fully I would be cleaning and rebuilding the carb, making sure the the float level is set...

Please post your units model and serial numbers so we have an idea of what engine you have. That way we can advise you on how to proceed without guessing.

Do a google search like this and you’ll find what you need. “Tecumseh part number 790007” “Tecumseh part number 790025”

Please post the model, type and code numbers from the engine. That way we will know the exact engine you are dealing with.

Use this procedure to pinpoint the cause of your problem, then report back your results. If you don’t have a multimeter or unsure about how to diagnose electrical problems you’ll have to take the unit into a shop. Electrical problems can be very easy or very difficult, depending on four...

This owners manual has the instructions you are looking for. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/153411/Allis-Chalmers-910-6-Speed.html?page=28#manual

Don’t go to a paint store to find a color match. Go to an auto body shop, as their employees know how to match colors better than paint stores, plus their paint will be of a better quality. You will get what you pay for, as it may be more expensive.

Reported this spam post that only guys like slomo would like.

Really, you come here looking for help and then try to berate us. Our ESP and Crystal Balls have been down since COVID so we must rely on engine numbers to properly help people out. Even DIY guys like you should understand that. I’m finding very little information on the engine with the...

We need engine numbers!!! If you cannot look closely for engine numbers you’re not capable in adjusting the carb properly. I don’t care who branded the engine or what series it is, we need to know the exact engine model.

This web site should supply you with part numbers. https://www.partstree.com/models/ts-342-960410386-00-husqvarna-42-garden-tractor-2015-03/

Was this tranny on a Murray tractor? Looks to me like a 900 series tranny which very little information is available. Glad to hear you solved the problem, as it would take someone who still has the microfiche to get an IPL for you.

This one is going to be very difficult to help you out. First this mower was only manufactured for one year 1983 and uses a BLADE OVERRIDE SYSTEM (BOS). I am unable to find any diagrams for this system. If I had the unit in front of me I could probably figure it out, but that is not possible...

I agree with Doc, if the belt was over 3 years ago I would start solving the problem by replacing it.

Can you post a picture of the part you were replacing and of the springs.

You are looking at the governor tension spring. One end attaches to the same hole as the governor link to governor arm. The other end attaches to the throttle lever in the same hole as the governor link. This manual may be of some help...