Recent content by Rivets

Neighbor just asked me if I had ever heard of Blue DEF being used as a lawn fertilizer. Never heard of this,but I told him I would see if I could find any info on It. Little research says it is used that way, but the results are mixed. Has anyone heard on this or tried it? Time to educate...

Your welcome.

Maybe this manual will help you identify what each wire is for and where it goes. https://www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/FAQs/alternator_replacement.pdf

Many things come to mind when I see this problem. Is the engine running at top speed? Should be approximately 3400 RPMs. Are you cutting at a correct height? Should be removing no more than 1/3 of the grass height, on dry grass. Is the blade turning at top speed? Worn or loose belt will...

Amazon coils are a crapshoot, that’s why 90% of the techs on this site never recommend using them unless they are the very, very last resort.

Maybe this manual will help you out. I would start with double checking everything you have done so far. Don’t go looking at any other system until you are sure everything is correct with the ignition system...

I should have added, if you have not replaced the pump diaphragm now is the time.

You don’t want sealant between the carb and the tank. Just want to make sure the edges are completely sealed. Also, a new gasket on the carb is definitely needed. I’ve even seen people double up on that gasket.

I’ve seen this many times and the most common cause is a warped tank, not getting a good seal between the carb and tank. Before replacing the carb try this down on the farm fix. Clean the area where the carb mounts extremely well. Install the carb, careful not to over tighten the mounting...

According to the Ariens numbers 4 different engines were used on that unit. This is making it difficult for us to help, as we need to identify which one he has. Seems like the OP is just guessing, as even the numbers he’s posting don’t look like a possibility. Doober, also include the code...

It may look good, but could be compromised. At the $$$ of plugs I would be replacing it. Dollar wise many times mean penny stupid.

That Briggs number doesn’t come up. Ask your better half for one of their green dish scrubys. Soak it good and cover it good with some Comet or equivalent. Carefully scrub the area with the pad and the numbers should appear. Need model, type and code numbers. Ariens used different engines...

Look on the valve cover for Briggs numbers. Give us as many numbers as you can find, as Ive seen 50 year old Briggs which still have all their numbers. If that can’t be done give us the Ariens serial number

This service manual should help you out, depending on you electrical circuitry knowledge. https://www.toro.com/getpub/48881

My big fingers found the wrong number, should be 640351.

The number you provided is for a carburetor. Tecumseh used three different primer bulbs. Numbers 36045A, 340351, and 6320347A. Lookup each of these numbers and see which one matches your old one.

I’m not proud to say this but, it used to be 5% of the people working on small engines shouldn’t be allowed to handle a screwdriver. Today it seems to have grown to 25%. When I retired 18 years ago I expected my students to know how to deal with customers and when to know when they are over...

Provide us with the model and spec numbers for the engine. They will allow us to find the correct primer bulb.

More than likely the filter base is warped, not allowing the gaskets to seal. Best remedy is to replace the base.

If you have no spark when the kill wire is disconnected, you have a bad coil.

The drag link will need to be replaced. Two different links were used, 5/16” and 3/8”. Pages 24-25 of this manual will help you identify the proper part number to order. https://www.thepowerportal.com/ipls/ipl.htm?md=2690575~_IPLURL_LO.pdf

First, if you tried to clean the thermostat with carb cleaner, I’m willing to bet you destroyed it. The cleaner will ruin the wax. Second, the spring hooks into the same hole as the carb linkage.

I’m torn on which way to go when advis ing how to answer your question on which ratio to use. These old Tecumseh engines were mules and when taken care of run forever. The condition of the engine will have a lot to do with how to proceed. The oil in a 2-cycle ratio has two jobs. First, it is...

Did you test the coil with the kill wire disconnected?

You just tested it the way 95% of the techs on this sire do it.

If you have the coil is mounted correctly and gapped at 010” and the only thing connected to the coil is the spark plug you should have spark. No spark, I say you have a bad coil, even it is new. Hope you bought from a good dealer, as most will not warranty electrical parts once they walk out...

Post model and serial numbers from under the seat so we can check to see if you have the right belt.

Sounds like the belt is not routed properly. Maybe this manual will help. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1915115/Husqvarna-Rider-316t-S-Awd.html?page=81#manual

If you have no spark with the kill wire removed, check these there things. 1. Coil mounted upside down. 2. Wrong coil air gap, should be be .010” 3. Wrong coil, should be Tecumseh part number 36344A. if not one of these three, bad coil.

If the paint got into the generator, through the vents, it’s not going to last long.

Just to let you know, that engine is about the cheapest engine Briggs makes.

First, check to see that the unit is in neutral and the PTO is off. Second, check that the battery cable going to the solenoid is tight and the battery ground cable is tight on the chassis connection. Third, do you hear the solenoid click when you try to start the engine?

Not common, but not unusual.

I’m guessing that on that model the temperature control linkage is hung up or thermo choke control is bad.

Post all Model and serial numbers for the unit and engine so we have a better idea of what you are dealing with.

Push the throttle control cable to the choke position. If you follow the cable down to the engine you’ll find where it is clamped to a plate. Loosen this clamp and push the entire cable forward as far as possible and tighten the clamp. Choke should now be fully closed.

It goes according to bolt size. If you have a 5/16”-18, you will use a 5/16” HeliCoils. 1/4“-20 use 1/4” and 3/8”-16 use 3/8.

If you are worried about popping wheelies going up and down, in my opinion the slope is too extreme for either unit. Only way to really answer this question is to tell you to test both units on your slope first. This is one time where your gut will give you a better answer than any opinions on...

5 years ago I got rid of four gas cans and now I only have one. Mix a pouch of Opti-2 with one gallon of fuel and use it in all equipment, mine or customers. Never have had a problem since I switched over.

Star, I did repair the terminal. I always remove that spring terminal and use a crimp style with one modification. Take a piece on Ni-Chome wire, bend into a U at least 3/4” on both sides and push into the wire. Then crimp an auto style terminal over the top. Works great especially when you...

Joe, if you read post #1 you will see that I got the unit running. I was just making an observation about electricity which I have not see before. I don’t understand everything posted fully, but I did learn something new.

I understand what everyone is saying, it’s just confusing that in all my years of fixing engines I’ve never seen it before. Thank you all for educating this old fart.

SRWA, please start a new thread. When you do so include all-engine numbers which will make it easier to help you.

It was that style connector, but that doesn’t explain why I show current flow through the tester when one end is connected to the secondary wire and other end is in thin air, not touching anything.

I know I’m getting old and electrical problems can get very confusing, but in 50+ years I’ve never seen this before. I’ve got an Echo CS346 that I need to get running, I hooked my inline spark tester (neon light) up to check for spark; nothing. Ok, installed new plug; very faint. Pulled the...

Sounds like you have a coil with either has a hot short or hot open. Next time it happens check for spark at the plug. No spark bad coil.

If we’ve (the techs on this site) said it once we’ve said it a thousand times, TODAYS COILS CAN NOT BE TESTED USING A MULTI METER, You need special equipment to test them, due to Hall Effect triggers inside the coil. Easiest way for the DIY guts to test a coil is to disconnect the kill wire from...

Do a google search for “husqvarna r322t awd belt diagram”. Plenty of them out there.

Thank you for letting us know you’ve solved the problem. Most people find it takes to much work to do that.

I can’t see the your grass height so don’t know how much you are taking off when mowing . Should be no more than 1/3 of the grass height. Grass is 6”, height should be set at 4”. Two things I would try. First raise your cutting height to 3.5” or 4” and see if it makes a difference. Does it...

Please post the Tecumseh spec number, E-xxxxx. I’m coming up with a different carb number.

Six things will cause clumping under a deck. 1. Not running the engine at full speed while cutting. 2. Try to cut with the deck set too low. Should be cutting no more than 1/3 of the grass height. 3. Grass is too long, see #2. 4. Cutting grass wet. 5. Dull blades or worn blades which will...

Post all engine numbers, model, type and code and we should be able to find you an exact replacement.

Any ignition system which does not have points has a Hall Effect trigger embedded in the coil. You need a very, very $$$$ piece of equipment to test them. I know that everything you see on U-tube videos is the absolute truth, but this is the one time those idiots got it wrong.

I’m then at a loss. The only place where oil can enter the cylinder is with the fuel.

Checking coil with multi meter NO. Today’s coils cannot be tested with a multi meter. After you reassemble everything, make sure that you throttle control cable is completely closing the choke butterfly. Can’t count the hard starting problem is caused by a cable which is not completely...

Might want to try doing a google search for part number 1735573YP. Plenty out there. Unless you have a very good reason for not wanting to rebuild it, spindles are about as simple as it comes to rebuild.

Excessive oil coming out of the muffler indicates to me you are using the wrong fuel/oil ratio. Way too much oil. Stihl uses a 50/1 ratio, I use and recommend one pouch of Opti-2 oil to one gallon of fuel. Remove all fuel from the tank, mix a gallon of fuel to the proper ratio, install a new...

You may see if your local dealer has either of these parts. Tecumseh/Peerless part number 790075 or MTD part number 761-0202. I’ve found many times they are interchangeable.

Poor picture, can’t read the numbers.

I also think it may be a fuel problem, but disagree about a rich running condition. More like a lean running condition where the carb cannot supply enough fuel when the PTO is engaged. A good cleaning and rebuild may help you out.

That carb needs a lot of TLC. I’m guessing good cleaning and rebuild is needed. Including replacing the float needle and seat, plus resetting the float height. This site may be of some help. If you need to post back, make sure you include all Tecumseh model and spec numbers...

I always engage at full speed. That is just my opinion.

If the unit is sold out or the dealer did not put it on his spring order, it is common to charge freight, as this is an expense with costs him big $$$ to special order.