Z254 Front Wheel Bushing Replace or Upgrade?

[Always Learning]

One front wheel bushing on my Husqvarna Z254 54" Zero Turn mover is shot. First wheel problem, 10 years old, grease all zircs annually. Looking on Amazon, I can buy replacement bushings or they have a kit that replaces the bushings with bearings and a 304 SS shaft insert. I prefer bearings to bushings but would appreciate input from more experienced folks. Thanks

 

[mechanic mark]

Spare Parts - Z254 (Endurance)

shop.husqvarna.com

see wheels & tires.

 

[StarTech]

Please point me to the IPL that shows the front wheel bushings? I haven't found one showing them available separately.

 

[Always Learning]

Please point me to the IPL that shows the front wheel bushings? I haven't found one showing them available separately.

Haven't found that on a diagram either. That's one of the reasons I'm asking for advice. The Amazon reviews on the bearing kit say removing the worn bushings was the toughest part. Could be Husqvarna wants to sell the whole wheel assembly only. Amazon also has what they claim are the replacement bushings.
Pulled the bad wheel tonight. One bishing was shot and the other worn. Had to use the sawsall and Dremel to cut the bad one out. A 2 lb hammer, a punch, and patience knocked the second one out. Would've been easier with little heat and an arbor press. The shaft running inside the bushing has an open seam. Both the bushing and shaft are ferrous metal. Plenty of grease but no seal to keep dirt out of it. After seeing this and knowing it's a low rpm application I'm thinking the bearing upgrade is worth a shot.

 

[bertsmobile1]

IT is a highly flawed design from the start and both AYP & JD use it
It was just OK on the older models like the LX Deers that had narrower wheels and not this idiot pretend near zero turn steering set up .
There is simply too much load on the bushing , it needs EP bentonite gear grease , not Lithium as specified , but the lack of proper sealing causes the bentonite grease to go off .
The grease nipples rarely seal as they are drilled through the weld by a blind machinist and rarely have any more than 1 turn of thread which does not work with a tapered thread seal .
I have tried just about everything and the only thing that actually worked long term was to drill the end of the Axel for a grease nipple and diagonally cross drill the shaft but thi has to be done every season without fail .
The strait cross drilling ended breaking the axel at the cross drilling
The axel is only induction hardened so lucky to be 0.001" of hardness.
The bush is a powder pressing and is supposed to be partially self lubricating
Every aftermarket parts maker sells the bushes
OEM part numbers

• Ariens21546832
• AYP 532009040, 9040H
• Honda 91051-771-000
• Husqvarna 532009040, 532124959, 539112899, 583670401, 594944401
• John DeereGX10059, M123811
• MTD 135236
• Murray 491334MA
• Toro 114-1640

Now I have been told that this tapered rollers can be made to fit
Stens 230-610 bit you have to make up spacers to fit between the inner cones then shim the wheel so there is no side play
I have not tried it
These 2 full length rollers have worked reasonably well but again I had to make up spacers for different wheels
I use them when the old bushes have under cut the axels .

Stens 230-616​

Stens 230-693
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[StarTech]

Bert you are assuming it is rider type front wheels. This is a ZTR front wheel bushings which are usually different but not always. I do need to research these when the next time I get in one of these mowers to be sure but that probably be a while. Meanwhile the OP can measure the outer (mounting not the flange) and inner diameter of the bushings. From that then someone can suggest bearings that would fit.

Those bushings Bert is suggesting are for a 3/4" (.751" id bushing) spindle shaft and it for a wheel bore of 1.380". Bert what you suggest on cross drilling will be very problematic as drilling a 1/2" carriage bolt will take special care and then the spacer will also need to be cross drilled the precise position as the cross drill in the carriage. Then in order to add grease the holes must line up. Definitely not a easy done as has to done in the blind but possible.

 

[bkeller500]

You got 10 years out of the bushings......I'd really consider just doing bushings again.

 

[StarTech]

You got 10 years out of the bushings......I'd really consider just doing bushings again.

Sorta like me as I am needing ball joints after 65 yrs. Just natural wear and tear.

 

[Always Learning]

Just to close this out. Thanks for everyone's feedback. Bertsmobile1 called it perfectly. Pretty bad design, especially using the split 'rollpin' shaft.

I went with the bearing and SS shaft retrofit. Once I got it apart I found bushing and shaft wear on both wheels. Everything fit perfectly. Bearings are a bit weak for my taste at 1/4" width but I can spec out better ones if these fail. If there's issues down the road I'll admit I was wrong and let you know. Thanks again.