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Worn axles

#1

B

bartles

I am working on a Snapper Model: YZ13331BE(Snapper Crusier) with Eaton X778-011 Transaxles

The axle shafts(1" OD) and wheels are both worn...about .002-.003 of "wobble". The keyways, according to the Snapper parts book
are 6mm square. The keyways are worn also. It appears the keys are shorter than what could be put in the allowable length. A new key fits tightly on the very ends of the axle keyway but the middle of the keyway is worn. The axle/wheel arrangement is probably typical...hand pressed wheels onto the axles with a washer and an E-clip.

The obvious concern is, unless something is done to tighten up the fit, the key will continue to wear on the axle shaft and the wheel bore and would eventually shear. Eaton no
longer offers product support for these units. The easy fix, replacing the axles and the wheels, is not an option...probably would be expensive anyway.

I'd appreciate suggestions of how best to reduce the free play between the axles and the wheel bores.


#2

M

mechanic mark

Clean axle shafts thoroughly & apply a liberal amount of Antiseize Compound covering axle shafts. Antiseize prevents friction & wheels being seized to axles. I would use washers on the axles to shorten up free-play.


#3

7394

7394

On a Peerless 6 speed I had long ago it was the aluminim housing wearing & not the steel axles.. Just my .02


#4

B

bartles

mechanic mark said:
Clean axle shafts thoroughly & apply a liberal amount of Antiseize Compound covering axle shafts. Antiseize prevents friction & wheels being seized to axles. I would use washers on the axles to shorten up free-play.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply. The "slack" I'm talking about has happened because the shaft, keyway, and wheel bore all have wear that causes the tire/wheel to have a little wobble. Using washers on the axle will take up the "in and out" movement of the wheel. I'm trying to come up with a solution to the worn surfaces of the axle and the bore of the wheel.

If you have more suggestions please let me know. I appreciate you help!!!

PS: Love that "Never Seize"


#5

M

mechanic mark

Is there enough room to install a bushing after you take measurements with a caliper?


#6

B

bartles

mechanic mark said:
Is there enough room to install a bushing after you take measurements with a caliper?
Click to expand...
The keyway in the shaft and the wheel is a problem. I could bore out the wheel to fit a bushing but I don't have a shaper or broaches to machine an internal keyway. I think I'm left with using very thin shim stock to tighten up the clearance opposite the keyway between the wheel bore and the axle shaft.

Another "redneck" approach is to "tack" weld in a few spots on the axle and file those down until the wheel is tighter on the shaft.
Keeping the axle shaft cool after each weld is going to be tricky to prevent damaging the seal in the axle housing.

I appreciate your interest so if you can think of a fix please let me know.

bartles


#7

M

mechanic mark

Would new key stock be a tight fit in axle keyway?
Can you install a bushing to fit inside wheel hub? Is there enough room in wheel hub to drill tap & install a long set screw over setscrew?


#8

B

bartles

mechanic mark said:
Would new key stock be a tight fit in axle keyway?
Click to expand...
I got some new keystock and it does fit tight at each end of the axle. The major wear to the axle shaft and the wheel bore
is in the middle of both. I put in a new piece cut as long as possible and the fit up is good. Excessive wear to the axle and the wheel bore has still caused slack between the two.


#9

B

bertsmobile1

Key steel comes in a variety of sizes & shapes.
You can get a rectangular section and file out the sides of both slots with a rat rail file or a safe edge file
Or just get a bigger section & file all 3 sides in each slot .
Remember that the wheel is not a timing slot so if you take different amounts from either side it won't matter


#10

B

bartles

bertsmobile1 said:
Key steel comes in a variety of sizes & shapes.
You can get a rectangular section and file out the sides of both slots with a rat rail file or a safe edge file
Or just get a bigger section & file all 3 sides in each slot .
Remember that the wheel is not a timing slot so if you take different amounts from either side it won't matter
Click to expand...
Many thanks for the advice. That's a good plan and probably the only way to tighten up the slack between the axle n wheel bore.

Appreciate your reply and skills,

bartles


#11

B

bertsmobile1

And no need to be exact with the slot sizes, just so long as both are the same as you can take the key down to fit the slot on an oil stone .
If the front & back of the slot are in good condition & a tight fit then the can clean ( and I mean really clean ) the slots then use Devcon Steel Putty to fill in the wallowed out section.
No other putty will do the job so forget about JB weld which most Americans seem to think will fix anything & everything ( it doesent) .
Only Devcon will stay there & not crumble under load.
Cut a new key that is full length
When you install the wheel use thick steel washers either side of the wheel and then some thing like nylon to take up the slack .
The wheel needs about .010"-.020" end float or you will get excessive wear inside the tranny


#12

B

bartles

Sorry to reply so late. What? JB Weld is not the king?😁 Sounds like a repair path to take for sure. I have not gotten out
to look for Devcon but I'll so that asap...Thanks again!!

bartles


#13

B

bertsmobile1

JB weld is rather like the WD 40 of the epoxy world.
Devcon is a product designed in Australia ( so it must be better 👿 ) to rebuild the shafts of underground mining equipment that can just not be taken apart in situ . Original use was to build up the region that seals run against .
Comes in 2 types, steel & aluminium and both will do everything on the label easily.
Down side is it comes in big packs and does not keep very well once opened
Up side is it is very very hard once gone off so will not compress like most other epoxies will and is abraison resistant unlike all other epoxies.
Like everything that actually works, it is not cheap so you will not find it at Walmaer. Lowes, Harbour Freight or Amazon.
Down here it is available through engineering supply shops and some automotive repair suppliers .
We have repaired cast iron motorcycle heads with it , many of which are better than 20 years old and in particular the exhaust opening where there is no clamping system and the push fit exhaust pipes wear the holes oval .
There is a POR 15 putty that is a little less expensive that I used to use to repair the Kohler Kracks with before I found a welding technique that worked and of course the POR 15 is a US invention based on their furane resin paints that bullets bounce off.
The down side of the POR 15 product ( all of them ) is the detailed surface prep that must be followed to the letter

And before you ask JB weld will crumble & fall out as several axels that have come in for repair attested to .


#14

B

bartles

bertsmobile1 said:
JB weld is rather like the WD 40 of the epoxy world.
Devcon is a product designed in Australia ( so it must be better 👿 ) to rebuild the shafts of underground mining equipment that can just not be taken apart in situ . Original use was to build up the region that seals run against .
Comes in 2 types, steel & aluminium and both will do everything on the label easily.
Down side is it comes in big packs and does not keep very well once opened
Up side is it is very very hard once gone off so will not compress like most other epoxies will and is abraison resistant unlike all other epoxies.
Like everything that actually works, it is not cheap so you will not find it at Walmaer. Lowes, Harbour Freight or Amazon.
Down here it is available through engineering supply shops and some automotive repair suppliers .
We have repaired cast iron motorcycle heads with it , many of which are better than 20 years old and in particular the exhaust opening where there is no clamping system and the push fit exhaust pipes wear the holes oval .
There is a POR 15 putty that is a little less expensive that I used to use to repair the Kohler Kracks with before I found a welding technique that worked and of course the POR 15 is a US invention based on their furane resin paints that bullets bounce off.
The down side of the POR 15 product ( all of them ) is the detailed surface prep that must be followed to the letter

And before you ask JB weld will crumble & fall out as several axels that have come in for repair attested to .
Click to expand...
Thanks! I've used POR 15 to seal a badly rusted motorcycle fuel tank. It worked very well.

I appreciate you help!

bartles


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