So, same thing today. Mower started and ran fine, but as soon as I stopped to empty the leaves out of the baskets, it wouldn't start. Yesterday I pulled a plug and had my wife turn it over, and I saw plenty of spark. So tonight I pulled the air filter off and dumped a little gas into the carb, but still nothing! So, I'm perplexed. Small engines are not rocket science; usually spark plus fuel equals at least some kind of run. Would a lack of compression lead to no firing at all?
Won't start when hot.
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Tinkerer200
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When installing the aftermarket coil, are you sure you installed it correctly? Plug leads exit coil on side opposite the spark plugs then lope under the coil and go back the other direction to plugs.
Walt Conner
lawngeorge
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yes, i connected the coil the way it is supposed to be,the left side of plug cable goes to the right sparkplug and vice versa. However i still havent check compression cold and hot i got home late from work i dint feel like messing with it.but tomorrow i cant wait to get my hands on it, believe me. This model is a 42a707 2653e1 it runs quite well and cut good Thats why i want to get it run right. I didn't mentioned that this machine doesn't cut off at all,you can go i guess for hours mowing, the most i've gone is about 1hour but as soon as i turn it off, game is over will not cranks till cool,in fact a friend of mine told me this ,that a few years back his brother had a similar machine to mine. the problem with that one was a sticking exaust valve when ever it got hot the valve stayed open thus causing the engine not to start, but it would still fire.i wonder if that what's wrong with mine.tinkerer any advice will be greatly appreciated.
thanks
lawngeorge
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sapman im in the same situation as you are im very perplexed, tomorrow im doing a compression check and according to the results, i might take the cylinder heads apart. Iwill post something tomorrow .take care
Carscw
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If the coil you got is a after market clone. Then it does not install the same. Try flipping it over.
These engine love to do this.
Why I do not know and have not found anyone that knows.
This problem is why I joined this group years ago.
These engine love to do this.
Why I do not know and have not found anyone that knows.
This problem is why I joined this group years ago.
lawngeorge
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uuhhh, I will try this today....if it doesnt starts the engine ,ill return it .the old coil works fine when cold. Thanks carscw
Tinkerer200
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As for cracked head or stuck valve, note that these engines will start and run quit happily on one cylinder. The examples I have found of this have been because gas leaked into cylinders after shutting down resulting in flooding which is the reason for shutting the gas off a few seconds before stopping the engine OR a failing coil "Heat Soaking" when engine is turned off.
Walt Conner
Walt Conner
Is there a way to test the coil before replacing it? Is it as simple as checking for spark? I would think that a lack of compression problem would result in poor performance, but when it is running, it seems to have plenty of power. It does go through some oil. The plug color looks good; not oily or wet.
RoperGuy
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Shot In the dark but remove your air filter and manually choke with your hand. By the sounds, spark isent your issue, other wise you would smell fuel on the plugs after removing. Should check your compression, even roll over by hand if you have to, before start and and after hot.
EngineMan
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There should be a fuel SOLENOID fitted if so check it.
Begin troubleshooting the solenoid by checking for battery voltage at the spade connector (with the key switch in the “start” as well as the “run” position). The next check is to listen at the bowl of the carburetor for a distinct click when the ignition switch is turned to the on position. If a distinct click is not heard, remove the solenoid for further testing.
To test the solenoid itself, attach one pole of a 9 volt transistor radio battery to the spade terminal and the other pole to the solenoid case or black ground wire
if so equipped. A sharp distinct movement of the plunger should be seen.
A poor solenoid ground connection or dirty/stale fuel are common causes of anti-afterfire solenoid problems.
Begin troubleshooting the solenoid by checking for battery voltage at the spade connector (with the key switch in the “start” as well as the “run” position). The next check is to listen at the bowl of the carburetor for a distinct click when the ignition switch is turned to the on position. If a distinct click is not heard, remove the solenoid for further testing.
To test the solenoid itself, attach one pole of a 9 volt transistor radio battery to the spade terminal and the other pole to the solenoid case or black ground wire
if so equipped. A sharp distinct movement of the plunger should be seen.
A poor solenoid ground connection or dirty/stale fuel are common causes of anti-afterfire solenoid problems.