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WINTER STORAGE
#1
lawn mower fanatic
lawn mower fanatic
I was just wondering what I should do with all my equipment over the winter. What I probably will do with my mowers is take them out once a week and run them. In bwtween that time, should I close the fuel shut-off valve and run the gas out of the carb??
With my handheld Echo equipment (blower & trimmer), what should I do? Should I take them out once a week and do the same thing?? Anything else??
Should I start everything like twice a week?
Thanks!
lmf
P.S. Yes I have read other threads with almost the same question, but I think my questions are a little different.
With my handheld Echo equipment (blower & trimmer), what should I do? Should I take them out once a week and do the same thing?? Anything else??
Should I start everything like twice a week?
Thanks!
lmf
P.S. Yes I have read other threads with almost the same question, but I think my questions are a little different.
#2
K
KennyV
K
KennyV
I have a couple older gasoline mowers... I do not do anything special for the off season, at spring I change oil and everything starts right up... I've never had the type of gasoline problems others have described...
so to answer your questions... shut off the fuel if it's convenient and run them when you need them... otherwise just let them rest till your back to running them regularly... try to use up all your mixed fuels, I use to burn that up year round, so never had any quantity just setting around aging...
I have had some fuel lines inside chainsaw fuel tanks fail... but I think that would have happened with age with OR without fuel in the tanks.... :smile:KennyV
so to answer your questions... shut off the fuel if it's convenient and run them when you need them... otherwise just let them rest till your back to running them regularly... try to use up all your mixed fuels, I use to burn that up year round, so never had any quantity just setting around aging...
I have had some fuel lines inside chainsaw fuel tanks fail... but I think that would have happened with age with OR without fuel in the tanks.... :smile:KennyV
#3
lawn mower fanatic
I have a lot of 2-cycle oil/gas mix in a container. Would it still be good when I need it in April?
lawn mower fanatic
I have a couple older gasoline mowers... I do not do anything special for the off season, at spring I change oil and everything starts right up... I've never had the type of gasoline problems others have described...
so to answer your questions... shut off the fuel if it's convenient and run them when you need them... otherwise just let them rest till your back to running them regularly... try to use up all your mixed fuels, I use to burn that up year round, so never had any quantity just setting around aging...
I have had some fuel lines inside chainsaw fuel tanks fail... but I think that would have happened with age with OR without fuel in the tanks.... :smile:KennyV
I have a lot of 2-cycle oil/gas mix in a container. Would it still be good when I need it in April?
#4
K
KennyV
Don't know for sure... I've usually used it all through winter, but it likely will still be okay... the other gasoline I have always is...:smile:KennyV
K
KennyV
I have a lot of 2-cycle oil/gas mix in a container. Would it still be good when I need it in April?
Don't know for sure... I've usually used it all through winter, but it likely will still be okay... the other gasoline I have always is...:smile:KennyV
#5
R
Rednekdaddy
R
Rednekdaddy
Use some type of fuel stabilizer in your stored fuel and you will most likely be fine. Be sure to also use the stabilized fuel in the tanks and lines carbs ect. If not you might end up with varnish in your stuff or if you got that ethanol mixed gasoline that will separate over time and you end up with water in your stuff, so please use some type of fuel stabilizer!
#6
P
possum
P
possum
Up until about 18 months ago I never ran anything out, never used fuel stabilizers, and kept two stroke mix all through the winter and used it up in the spring. I did not have many problems. But all of a sudden I had nothing but problems all fuel related. About that same time I discovered that many engine makers seem to consider anything carb related to be the fault of the gas you run and do not warranty their fuel systems very well and the newer they are the more picky they seem to be. I think it is going to be much worse over the next few years. So I became real religious about fuel stabilizers, fresh fuel, fuel containers, higher octane fuel, fuel without booze in it, and off season storage. i also began to talk to classic car owners, motorcycle folks, boaters, and neighbors. Some of the stuff they showed me was pretty amazing. A bottle of fuel stabilizer is pretty cheap. Honda engines are known to be expensive to repair. Many two stroke oils have stabilizers in the mix. If they were not a good idea then I do not think they would put them in the oil. Most engine makers want you to use a stabilizer. If it was me I would buy some fresh fuel at the end of the season add some stabilizer and run them awhile before I put them away. It just seems to me to be cheap insurance.
#7
M
mowerguy
M
mowerguy
look for the marine stabilizer. the blue versus the red. it is slightly more expensive but has ethanol treatment in it
#8
F
fastback
F
fastback
Winter storage is becoming a big problem. Up until now I have not worried about the fuel. I do not drain the system or run the fuel out of the carburetor. In my case, I have always felt that an additive is too costly. I have 13 different gasoline engines, I am retired and no side business so adding additives is a costly thing for me. However, parts are not cheap and it takes more time that I need to devote to clean carburetors etc. So this year I will be taking the plunge into fuel additives.
#9
lawn mower fanatic
lawn mower fanatic
My Echo oil mix to add to the gas for the 2-cycle oil says it has a stabilizer in it. Does that mean I do not need to do anything with it?
#10
djdicetn
djdicetn
For winter storage I wholeheartedly agree with the advice given by user possum. Being a boat owner(bought a 1999 Sprint Fish n' Ski with a 125 Merc outboard new and has been garage kept ever since the purchase), before 10% Ethanol gas was forced down our throats by the EPA I ran nothing but Premium grade gasoline in everything I owned that was gasoline-powered(car, truck, boat, lawn/small engine equipment). Never used any stabilizer and NEVER had any fuel-related problems with anything stored over the winter(I just disconnected fuel lines and ran the boat & other small engine equipment until they ran out of gas to empty the lines and carbs). But things have CHANGED with the Ethanol(including engine design to accomodate 10%). When I replaced my 1993 Lawn Chief lawn tractor(16hp B & S Vanguard-best 4cycle engine I've ever owned) with a 2006 Craftsman(Husqvarna) with a 24hp B & S Intek and put Premium(w/Ethanol) gas in it the thing would barely run, backfired, hesitated and generally ran ragged. I switched to Regular grade and it ran MUCH better. IMHO, that had to be a "design change" by B & S between 1993 & 2006 to "accomodate" Ethanol. And as pointed out by user possum, the Owner Manual for my new Gravely has in bold print on the front cover "any gasoline with a greater than 10% Ethanol mixture will VOID THE WARRANTY". If that doesn't tell you that Ethanol is for all intents & purposes "bad for gasoline combustion engines" I don't know what does!!! The manual also "recommends" the use of stabilizers in the gas. So I, like many others, have become sensitive to protecting all of my gasoline powered equipment. For my car & truck I still use premium grade 10% Ethanol gas(the non-ethanol is cost prohibitive) and treat every other tankful with Lucas Ethanol treatment(BTW, I just replaced the electric fuel pump in my wife's 2001 Lincoln LS costing about $550...."requires" Premium and basically designed by Jaguar "pre-Ethanol" at that time) and had not used the Ethanol treatment since 10% Ethanol gas became predominent. For my boat, lawn equipment and all small engine equipment(especially my brand new Gravely) I run NOTHING but Regular grade non-Ethanol gasoline even though it is a LOT more expensive that the 10% Ethanol gas(and as of right now is still readily available in my area of Middle Tennessee). I will continue to do that as long as it is available and if the EPA shuts down the few "mom & pop markets" that carry it and force them to sell 10% Ethanol I will begin the Lucal Ethanol treatment additive in every tankful in that equipment. Have I told you how much I hate the EPA for mandating Ethanol in gasoline???? If there was a Preidential candidate that had a platform that stated he/she would make the EPA stop forcing Ethanol on us they would get my vote I don't care what party they represented!!!!! Anyway, as it stands I agree with user Possum & others that fuel stabilizers(and possibly Ethanol treatment additives) are all we can do to protect our investments!!!Up until about 18 months ago I never ran anything out, never used fuel stabilizers, and kept two stroke mix all through the winter and used it up in the spring. I did not have many problems. But all of a sudden I had nothing but problems all fuel related. About that same time I discovered that many engine makers seem to consider anything carb related to be the fault of the gas you run and do not warranty their fuel systems very well and the newer they are the more picky they seem to be. I think it is going to be much worse over the next few years. So I became real religious about fuel stabilizers, fresh fuel, fuel containers, higher octane fuel, fuel without booze in it, and off season storage. i also began to talk to classic car owners, motorcycle folks, boaters, and neighbors. Some of the stuff they showed me was pretty amazing. A bottle of fuel stabilizer is pretty cheap. Honda engines are known to be expensive to repair. Many two stroke oils have stabilizers in the mix. If they were not a good idea then I do not think they would put them in the oil. Most engine makers want you to use a stabilizer. If it was me I would buy some fresh fuel at the end of the season add some stabilizer and run them awhile before I put them away. It just seems to me to be cheap insurance.
#11
midnite rider
Yes the stabilizer is porportioned for your gas mixture. No need to add more. :thumbsup:
midnite rider
My Echo oil mix to add to the gas for the 2-cycle oil says it has a stabilizer in it. Does that mean I do not need to do anything with it?
Yes the stabilizer is porportioned for your gas mixture. No need to add more. :thumbsup:
#12
lawn mower fanatic
Good! So I don't really need to worry about the handheld equip./2-cycle oil. I am not worried about the normal gas for my mowers because we can use that really quickly so I am not worried about storing it over winter.
lawn mower fanatic
Yes the stabilizer is porportioned for your gas mixture. No need to add more. :thumbsup:
Good! So I don't really need to worry about the handheld equip./2-cycle oil. I am not worried about the normal gas for my mowers because we can use that really quickly so I am not worried about storing it over winter.
#13
V
vettman
Don't blame the EPA for this, blame the Ethanol lobbyists and the spineless congressmen that gave in to them. JMHO
V
vettman
For winter storage I wholeheartedly agree with the advice given by user possum. Being a boat owner(bought a 1999 Sprint Fish n' Ski with a 125 Merc outboard new and has been garage kept ever since the purchase), before 10% Ethanol gas was forced down our throats by the EPA I ran nothing but Premium grade gasoline in everything I owned that was gasoline-powered(car, truck, boat, lawn/small engine equipment). Never used any stabilizer and NEVER had any fuel-related problems with anything stored over the winter(I just disconnected fuel lines and ran the boat & other small engine equipment until they ran out of gas to empty the lines and carbs). But things have CHANGED with the Ethanol(including engine design to accomodate 10%). When I replaced my 1993 Lawn Chief lawn tractor(16hp B & S Vanguard-best 4cycle engine I've ever owned) with a 2006 Craftsman(Husqvarna) with a 24hp B & S Intek and put Premium(w/Ethanol) gas in it the thing would barely run, backfired, hesitated and generally ran ragged. I switched to Regular grade and it ran MUCH better. IMHO, that had to be a "design change" by B & S between 1993 & 2006 to "accomodate" Ethanol. And as pointed out by user possum, the Owner Manual for my new Gravely has in bold print on the front cover "any gasoline with a greater than 10% Ethanol mixture will VOID THE WARRANTY". If that doesn't tell you that Ethanol is for all intents & purposes "bad for gasoline combustion engines" I don't know what does!!! The manual also "recommends" the use of stabilizers in the gas. So I, like many others, have become sensitive to protecting all of my gasoline powered equipment. For my car & truck I still use premium grade 10% Ethanol gas(the non-ethanol is cost prohibitive) and treat every other tankful with Lucas Ethanol treatment(BTW, I just replaced the electric fuel pump in my wife's 2001 Lincoln LS costing about $550...."requires" Premium and basically designed by Jaguar "pre-Ethanol" at that time) and had not used the Ethanol treatment since 10% Ethanol gas became predominent. For my boat, lawn equipment and all small engine equipment(especially my brand new Gravely) I run NOTHING but Regular grade non-Ethanol gasoline even though it is a LOT more expensive that the 10% Ethanol gas(and as of right now is still readily available in my area of Middle Tennessee). I will continue to do that as long as it is available and if the EPA shuts down the few "mom & pop markets" that carry it and force them to sell 10% Ethanol I will begin the Lucal Ethanol treatment additive in every tankful in that equipment. Have I told you how much I hate the EPA for mandating Ethanol in gasoline???? If there was a Preidential candidate that had a platform that stated he/she would make the EPA stop forcing Ethanol on us they would get my vote I don't care what party they represented!!!!! Anyway, as it stands I agree with user Possum & others that fuel stabilizers(and possibly Ethanol treatment additives) are all we can do to protect our investments!!!
Don't blame the EPA for this, blame the Ethanol lobbyists and the spineless congressmen that gave in to them. JMHO
#14
L
lakedriver
L
lakedriver
With our gas getting worse, I use stabilizer to all my engines. I also put a storage oil in the cylinders. But a big thing I do is completely wash my units down and dry them. Mostly my mowers, as for wet grass sticks on top of the deck and causes premature rust. I also grease any and all grease fittings to make sure there is no moisture in them. I also make sure my battery has a full charge. I've worked hard to have the eguipment I have, so I don't mind going the extra mile to keep it in good order.
#15
Bomba
Bomba
Up until about 18 months ago I never ran anything out, never used fuel stabilizers, and kept two stroke mix all through the winter and used it up in the spring. I did not have many problems. But all of a sudden I had nothing but problems all fuel related. About that same time I discovered that many engine makers seem to consider anything carb related to be the fault of the gas you run and do not warranty their fuel systems very well and the newer they are the more picky they seem to be. I think it is going to be much worse over the next few years. So I became real religious about fuel stabilizers, fresh fuel, fuel containers, higher octane fuel, fuel without booze in it, and off season storage. i also began to talk to classic car owners, motorcycle folks, boaters, and neighbors. Some of the stuff they showed me was pretty amazing. A bottle of fuel stabilizer is pretty cheap. Honda engines are known to be expensive to repair. Many two stroke oils have stabilizers in the mix. If they were not a good idea then I do not think they would put them in the oil.
What is a good brand of fuel stabilizer to use?
#16
M
mcleod55
M
mcleod55
I use STA-BIL in all my lawn equipment. It will keep your gas fresh up to a year. You can get it at the big box stores or Wal Mart.
#17
L
lakedriver
L
lakedriver
I use STA-BIL also and it has worked very well for me. However, my neighbor uses Sea Foam and swears by it. I use Sea Foam in my car and truck and use it once in a while in other stuff. I think it more of a cleaner, but maybe I wrong.
#18
mowerman1999
mowerman1999
what i do for my equipment is for the mowers change the plug and air filter and put a bit of stabliser in the fuel and for my trimmer and leaf blower is just put some stabliser in them.
#19
D
danandbevsfarm
I worked as a lawn mower and chain saw mechanic for 4 years before retiring and the current thought on gasoline is this; store no gasoline for longer than 30 days UNLESS you use fuel stabilizer on 4 cycle gasoline and dispose of all 2 cycle gasoline after 30 days. The reasoning behind this is two-fold.
1. The alcohol gasoline additive is brutal on rubber components like fuel lines, carb diaphragms, gaskets, etc. And also fuel is hydroscopic, meaning it draws moisture from the air as well as the condensation that occurs in cold climates in a metal fuel tank or storage can that is vented to air.
2. 2 cycle fuel is particularly a problem because it turns to varnish over time. When old 2 cycle fuel is run in spring, if the engine runs at all, you find either a gelatinous material or a hard material within the carburetor, either at the inlet needle or the passageways within the carb which either restricts the flow or blocks the flow of fuel. That is one of the reasons a chainsaw, as an example, is hard to start in spring if fuel is left in the fuel system (the fresh gas has to dissolve the heavier gas first). Also, because of the small size of the piston/cylinder, ANY decomposition of the fuel will cause a drag or seizure of the piston to the cylinder. If you tore down the engine if you are an old 2 cycle-fuel user, you would find a brown/amber discoloration to the skirt of the piston and stuck rings . These deposits are the result of that little engine trying to burn "paint". Eventually the engine WILL seize if the bearings don't give out first. Imagine it this way, how long would you live if instead of water, you chose to drink muddy water; things would plug up without what you needed most-water. Your engine is the same way, it burns fuel, not paint. Burnt paint leaves a residue that gums up bearings, pistons, rings, etc.
Here's a pretty good way to prep/winterize your outdoor equipment if you want it to work FOR you in spring rather than AGAINST you.
HOW TO WINTERIZE YOUR TRACTOR OR LAWN MOWER
Mobile Sources, Winterizing Your Lawnmower | Region 5 | Air and Radiation Division | USEPA
I realize most of us don't trust the government for much but this last website is right on the mark, trust me!! (hah, hah) Dan
D
danandbevsfarm
I have a lot of 2-cycle oil/gas mix in a container. Would it still be good when I need it in April?
I worked as a lawn mower and chain saw mechanic for 4 years before retiring and the current thought on gasoline is this; store no gasoline for longer than 30 days UNLESS you use fuel stabilizer on 4 cycle gasoline and dispose of all 2 cycle gasoline after 30 days. The reasoning behind this is two-fold.
1. The alcohol gasoline additive is brutal on rubber components like fuel lines, carb diaphragms, gaskets, etc. And also fuel is hydroscopic, meaning it draws moisture from the air as well as the condensation that occurs in cold climates in a metal fuel tank or storage can that is vented to air.
2. 2 cycle fuel is particularly a problem because it turns to varnish over time. When old 2 cycle fuel is run in spring, if the engine runs at all, you find either a gelatinous material or a hard material within the carburetor, either at the inlet needle or the passageways within the carb which either restricts the flow or blocks the flow of fuel. That is one of the reasons a chainsaw, as an example, is hard to start in spring if fuel is left in the fuel system (the fresh gas has to dissolve the heavier gas first). Also, because of the small size of the piston/cylinder, ANY decomposition of the fuel will cause a drag or seizure of the piston to the cylinder. If you tore down the engine if you are an old 2 cycle-fuel user, you would find a brown/amber discoloration to the skirt of the piston and stuck rings . These deposits are the result of that little engine trying to burn "paint". Eventually the engine WILL seize if the bearings don't give out first. Imagine it this way, how long would you live if instead of water, you chose to drink muddy water; things would plug up without what you needed most-water. Your engine is the same way, it burns fuel, not paint. Burnt paint leaves a residue that gums up bearings, pistons, rings, etc.
Here's a pretty good way to prep/winterize your outdoor equipment if you want it to work FOR you in spring rather than AGAINST you.
HOW TO WINTERIZE YOUR TRACTOR OR LAWN MOWER
Mobile Sources, Winterizing Your Lawnmower | Region 5 | Air and Radiation Division | USEPA
I realize most of us don't trust the government for much but this last website is right on the mark, trust me!! (hah, hah) Dan
#20
M
mcleod55
Sea Foam | Tech Info - Gas Engines
Gosh I hope I posted that link right.:confused2:
M
mcleod55
I found this link about Sea FoamI use STA-BIL also and it has worked very well for me. However, my neighbor uses Sea Foam and swears by it. I use Sea Foam in my car and truck and use it once in a while in other stuff. I think it more of a cleaner, but maybe I wrong.
Sea Foam | Tech Info - Gas Engines
Gosh I hope I posted that link right.:confused2:
#21
jakewells
jakewells
A local marathon gas station sells recreational fuel contains no ethanol and it is 90 octane cost is 20 cents more than 87 corn gas but the benefit of no fuel system problems are worth it.
I'm been using it for 2 yrs and NEVER had to use stabil in my machines i just turn off the fuel and run my equipment till it runs out in the carburetor.
as for other things i change the oil,filters,sparkplugs and sharpen the blades then i spray fogging oil in the cylinder then clean the decks and spray oil on them then a plastic sheet gets wrapped up on them in my garage.
I'm been using it for 2 yrs and NEVER had to use stabil in my machines i just turn off the fuel and run my equipment till it runs out in the carburetor.
as for other things i change the oil,filters,sparkplugs and sharpen the blades then i spray fogging oil in the cylinder then clean the decks and spray oil on them then a plastic sheet gets wrapped up on them in my garage.
#22
lawn mower fanatic
lawn mower fanatic
Since November I have been taking my mowers out if I haven't used them in awhile to run them. I do it once a week. Now I decided to turn the gas valve off, run the gas out of the carb, and store the mower, keeping the gas that is in the tank. I will try to run the mower maybe once a month, but I was wondering if this is OK for the mower. Or would it just be a better idea to run it once a week without running the gas out of the carb?
#23
Parkmower
Drain the tank and run it out of gas. The gas in the tank will go bad no matter if you run it once a week or not unless you stabilized it.
Parkmower
lawn mower fanatic said:Since November I have been taking my mowers out if I haven't used them in awhile to run them. I do it once a week. Now I decided to turn the gas valve off, run the gas out of the carb, and store the mower, keeping the gas that is in the tank. I will try to run the mower maybe once a month, but I was wondering if this is OK for the mower. Or would it just be a better idea to run it once a week without running the gas out of the carb?
Drain the tank and run it out of gas. The gas in the tank will go bad no matter if you run it once a week or not unless you stabilized it.
#24
lawn mower fanatic
So it will be OK to let it sit over the winter with nothing in the tank? Just making sure.
lawn mower fanatic
Drain the tank and run it out of gas. The gas in the tank will go bad no matter if you run it once a week or not unless you stabilized it.
So it will be OK to let it sit over the winter with nothing in the tank? Just making sure.
#26
P
possum
P
possum
You are making it far harder than it is. And alot more complicated. If the carb is already empty then what in the world are you worried about the gas tank being empty? What differnce will it make to drain the gas out now and draining it out come spring? Drain the darn gas from the tank and burn it in a car, snowblower, something this winter. Just get it out of the tanks and get rid of it. Run your engines dry, put a squirt of oil in the spark plug hole give it a couple pulls and park them. Now forget about them until its time to get ready to mow. Like my Dad always said about cows. Prepare them for spring, turn them out, make sure they are there and leave them be. Same with the lawn stuff, prepare them for winter storage and leave them be. Go blow snow, rake yards, drink coffee, trim trees, visit on the internet, look at new equipment, argue about Honda versus Toro, MTD versus Poulan, Chinese engines versus Briggs and Stratton, and HDEO versus PCMO. If you keep up all your worry you will die far to soon and we will all miss you. Most of my friends died this summer, all of them were very worried about the coming election. None of them got to vote. One of them was worried about his girlfriend and she has already found another fellow. One of them was worried about his van and his worst enemy now owns it. One of them was worried about the state of disrepair of the cemetery and he now is buried in it. I hope you get snow for Christmass. We are supposed to get some tonight.
#27
lawn mower fanatic
OK thanks for the info. Yeah, I heard about the storm out west. We are supposed to get rain/snow on Christmas, so pretty much a mess! But they will change there minds a couple times from now to then so hopefully they change it to snow! :licking:
lawn mower fanatic
You are making it far harder than it is. And alot more complicated. If the carb is already empty then what in the world are you worried about the gas tank being empty? What differnce will it make to drain the gas out now and draining it out come spring? Drain the darn gas from the tank and burn it in a car, snowblower, something this winter. Just get it out of the tanks and get rid of it. Run your engines dry, put a squirt of oil in the spark plug hole give it a couple pulls and park them. Now forget about them until its time to get ready to mow. Like my Dad always said about cows. Prepare them for spring, turn them out, make sure they are there and leave them be. Same with the lawn stuff, prepare them for winter storage and leave them be. Go blow snow, rake yards, drink coffee, trim trees, visit on the internet, look at new equipment, argue about Honda versus Toro, MTD versus Poulan, Chinese engines versus Briggs and Stratton, and HDEO versus PCMO. If you keep up all your worry you will die far to soon and we will all miss you. Most of my friends died this summer, all of them were very worried about the coming election. None of them got to vote. One of them was worried about his girlfriend and she has already found another fellow. One of them was worried about his van and his worst enemy now owns it. One of them was worried about the state of disrepair of the cemetery and he now is buried in it. I hope you get snow for Christmass. We are supposed to get some tonight.
OK thanks for the info. Yeah, I heard about the storm out west. We are supposed to get rain/snow on Christmas, so pretty much a mess! But they will change there minds a couple times from now to then so hopefully they change it to snow! :licking:
#28
Ric
I'm glad I don't have to worry about all this winter storage crap.
Ric
OK thanks for the info. Yeah, I heard about the storm out west. We are supposed to get rain/snow on Christmas, so pretty much a mess! But they will change there minds a couple times from now to then so hopefully they change it to snow! :licking:
I'm glad I don't have to worry about all this winter storage crap.
#29
MowerMike
I just close the fuel petcock and run the engine until it stops. I then unscrew the drain plug in the carb float bowl to remove any remaining gas. I also add fuel stabilizer to my gas can when I buy it. I store my mower and other gas powered tools in my garage, which never gets below freezing and is dry.
MowerMike
Since November I have been taking my mowers out if I haven't used them in awhile to run them. I do it once a week. Now I decided to turn the gas valve off, run the gas out of the carb, and store the mower, keeping the gas that is in the tank. I will try to run the mower maybe once a month, but I was wondering if this is OK for the mower. Or would it just be a better idea to run it once a week without running the gas out of the carb?
I just close the fuel petcock and run the engine until it stops. I then unscrew the drain plug in the carb float bowl to remove any remaining gas. I also add fuel stabilizer to my gas can when I buy it. I store my mower and other gas powered tools in my garage, which never gets below freezing and is dry.
#30
lawn mower fanatic
lawn mower fanatic
I don't feel like doing a lot with it, so will it be OK just running it until it stops? And then just putting it away? I will get it serviced in February.
#31
lawn mower fanatic
Yeah, lucky!
lawn mower fanatic
I'm glad I don't have to worry about all this winter storage crap.
Yeah, lucky!
#32
lawn mower fanatic
lawn mower fanatic
I started to run the mower out of gas and almost finished but then it started to sleet. Great timing. :frown: :confused3:
Great timing. :frown: :confused3:
#33
metz12
metz12
it depends where you leave your 2cycle stuff. if its in like a garage where it doesnt get to cold you just run the fuel out of the thing so the gas doesnt eat and crust up the lines. sometimes butting a bag around the engine to keep out some of the moisture is a good method. but running your mowers like once a week isnt a bad idea.
#34
lawn mower fanatic
See I was thinking that it was a better idea to just run the gas out of the MOWERS because the gas will go bad (even if you run it once a week), and that is my most important equipment. For my 2-cycle stuff I was just going to run it once a week.
lawn mower fanatic
it depends where you leave your 2cycle stuff. if its in like a garage where it doesnt get to cold you just run the fuel out of the thing so the gas doesnt eat and crust up the lines. sometimes butting a bag around the engine to keep out some of the moisture is a good method. but running your mowers like once a week isnt a bad idea.
See I was thinking that it was a better idea to just run the gas out of the MOWERS because the gas will go bad (even if you run it once a week), and that is my most important equipment. For my 2-cycle stuff I was just going to run it once a week.
#35
Ric
There's nothing wrong with running your mowers weekly. If you run them weekly just leave enough gas in the tank to do so for a month. The other thing I have too ask is why do you think gas only last for a certain period of time. As far as your 2 cycle stuff I really wouldn't worry about those, the oils like Echo and Stihl and Homelite and most, all have fuel stabilizers in there oil.
Ric
See I was thinking that it was a better idea to just run the gas out of the MOWERS because the gas will go bad (even if you run it once a week), and that is my most important equipment. For my 2-cycle stuff I was just going to run it once a week.
There's nothing wrong with running your mowers weekly. If you run them weekly just leave enough gas in the tank to do so for a month. The other thing I have too ask is why do you think gas only last for a certain period of time. As far as your 2 cycle stuff I really wouldn't worry about those, the oils like Echo and Stihl and Homelite and most, all have fuel stabilizers in there oil.
#36
lawn mower fanatic
Because everyone has been saying gas goes bad after 30 days. For example:
But that is what I might do, just put a little gas in so I will use it up within a month.
lawn mower fanatic
There's nothing wrong with running your mowers weekly. If you run them weekly just leave enough gas in the tank to do so for a month. The other thing I have too ask is why do you think gas only last for a certain period of time. As far as your 2 cycle stuff I really wouldn't worry about those, the oils like Echo and Stihl and Homelite and most, all have fuel stabilizers in there oil.
Because everyone has been saying gas goes bad after 30 days. For example:
store no gasoline for longer than 30 days UNLESS you use fuel stabilizer on 4 cycle gasoline
But that is what I might do, just put a little gas in so I will use it up within a month.
#37
MowerMike
The problem is that little bit that remains in the carb float bowl can still be in contact with the jet and clog it up. It's very easy to just quickly remove the drain plug and then screw it back in, and you can catch the little bit of gas in a small bowl and toss it outside where it will quickly evaporate.
MowerMike
I don't feel like doing a lot with it, so will it be OK just running it until it stops? And then just putting it away? I will get it serviced in February.
The problem is that little bit that remains in the carb float bowl can still be in contact with the jet and clog it up. It's very easy to just quickly remove the drain plug and then screw it back in, and you can catch the little bit of gas in a small bowl and toss it outside where it will quickly evaporate.
#38
lawn mower fanatic
What I think I will do is just put a little bit of gas in the mower and run it weekly. That way the mower will be running fairly often but the gas will not have time to go bad. But thanks for the suggestion.
lawn mower fanatic
The problem is that little bit that remains in the carb float bowl can still be in contact with the jet and clog it up. It's very easy to just quickly remove the drain plug and then screw it back in, and you can catch the little bit of gas in a small bowl and toss it outside where it will quickly evaporate.
What I think I will do is just put a little bit of gas in the mower and run it weekly. That way the mower will be running fairly often but the gas will not have time to go bad. But thanks for the suggestion.
#39
Ric
Ric
Gasoline does not "break down" in a human lifetime.
You may notice issues if you have a tank full of gas purchased in winter and you start your engine up in the summer, or vice versa, as oil companies modify their formulations for a consant viscosity at seasonal temperatures.
The most volatile parts of the gasoline may evaporate over a period of months, increasing the "gumminess" of the tank contents, but this isn't likely to cause issues you'd notice unless you feed your engine a steady diet of old gasoline.
If the tank is not full, you may get water condensing in the tank at and getting trapped under the gasoline. Since the fuel line draws from the bottom of the tank, this may result in water in your fuel line, which will present a problem.
If that's the case add one of those ethanol gas additives to the tank, as it will allow the water to form a solution with the gas in your tank and you'll be able to get the water out of your tank, after which the gas, no matter how old, will run your engine acceptably well until you can fill up with some fresh or new gas.
Other problems if you drain everything are things (like gasket shrinkage, battery charge, or fluid-levels dropping due to small leaks) are probably going to be bigger concerns for your mower than gas.
I always fill everything to the very top and I never drain a carb because you can never get all the gas out and what's left will lacquer and screw everything up.
You may notice issues if you have a tank full of gas purchased in winter and you start your engine up in the summer, or vice versa, as oil companies modify their formulations for a consant viscosity at seasonal temperatures.
The most volatile parts of the gasoline may evaporate over a period of months, increasing the "gumminess" of the tank contents, but this isn't likely to cause issues you'd notice unless you feed your engine a steady diet of old gasoline.
If the tank is not full, you may get water condensing in the tank at and getting trapped under the gasoline. Since the fuel line draws from the bottom of the tank, this may result in water in your fuel line, which will present a problem.
If that's the case add one of those ethanol gas additives to the tank, as it will allow the water to form a solution with the gas in your tank and you'll be able to get the water out of your tank, after which the gas, no matter how old, will run your engine acceptably well until you can fill up with some fresh or new gas.
Other problems if you drain everything are things (like gasket shrinkage, battery charge, or fluid-levels dropping due to small leaks) are probably going to be bigger concerns for your mower than gas.
I always fill everything to the very top and I never drain a carb because you can never get all the gas out and what's left will lacquer and screw everything up.
#40
lawn mower fanatic
lawn mower fanatic
OK thanks for the info. I will put more gas in my mower tomorrow.
Thanks! :smile:
Thanks! :smile:
#41
metz12
metz12
well your weed wackers wont need to be ran over the winter so drain the gas out, so the fuel lines dont get gunked up, but wont you use your blower for blowing light snow? you wont need to do that since youll be running that every once in a while.
#42
lawn mower fanatic
Yes, I will use my blower for light snow. My main concern is my mowers because without them I can't do anything. My older weedwacker has lasted 25 years without draining out the gas, so I won't worry about that!
lawn mower fanatic
well your weed wackers wont need to be ran over the winter so drain the gas out, so the fuel lines dont get gunked up, but wont you use your blower for blowing light snow? you wont need to do that since youll be running that every once in a while.
Yes, I will use my blower for light snow. My main concern is my mowers because without them I can't do anything. My older weedwacker has lasted 25 years without draining out the gas, so I won't worry about that!
#43
Ric
Do you use echo oil for mixing your 50:to1 mix. If so it has fuel stabilizers in it so your 2 stroke stuff shouldn't be a problem, you shouldn't have to drain them but I'd still run them once in a while. If you're not comfortable with what I'm saying don't do it. You do what you think is right. You can always go with the sta-bil that everyone talks about.
Ric
Yes, I will use my blower for light snow. My main concern is my mowers because without them I can't do anything. My older weedwacker has lasted 25 years without draining out the gas, so I won't worry about that!
Do you use echo oil for mixing your 50:to1 mix. If so it has fuel stabilizers in it so your 2 stroke stuff shouldn't be a problem, you shouldn't have to drain them but I'd still run them once in a while. If you're not comfortable with what I'm saying don't do it. You do what you think is right. You can always go with the sta-bil that everyone talks about.
#44
lawn mower fanatic
Yes I use the Echo Power Blend oil w/ the built-in stabilizer for my 2-cycle equipment.
To sum it up (since I have changed my mind a lot) I think I'm going to run everything weekly, keep the gas in my 2-cycle equipment since it has the stabilizers, and only keep enough gas in my mowers so the gas does not get too old.
Thanks everyone for your help! :smile:
lawn mower fanatic
Do you use echo oil for mixing your 50:to1 mix. If so it has fuel stabilizers in it so your 2 stroke stuff shouldn't be a problem, you shouldn't have to drain them but I'd still run them once in a while. If you're not comfortable with what I'm saying don't do it. You do what you think is right. You can always go with the sta-bil that everyone talks about.
Yes I use the Echo Power Blend oil w/ the built-in stabilizer for my 2-cycle equipment.
To sum it up (since I have changed my mind a lot) I think I'm going to run everything weekly, keep the gas in my 2-cycle equipment since it has the stabilizers, and only keep enough gas in my mowers so the gas does not get too old.
Thanks everyone for your help! :smile:
#45
H
hcooper
If the gas is reasonably fresh (not over a few months old) and is in a gas can, it won't hurt to add some STA-BIL to the gas, according the the mix ratio on the bottle. I've done this for many years and have had no trouble. Also, if you have a few gallons of mixed fuel and want to use it up, just dump it in your pick-up's gas tank before you go and fill it up. Won't hurt a thing.
H
hcooper
My Echo oil mix to add to the gas for the 2-cycle oil says it has a stabilizer in it. Does that mean I do not need to do anything with it?
If the gas is reasonably fresh (not over a few months old) and is in a gas can, it won't hurt to add some STA-BIL to the gas, according the the mix ratio on the bottle. I've done this for many years and have had no trouble. Also, if you have a few gallons of mixed fuel and want to use it up, just dump it in your pick-up's gas tank before you go and fill it up. Won't hurt a thing.
#46
H
hcooper
Try what I've done for years with 2-cycle and 4-cycle engines: Empty the gas tank, but leave a few ounces in it. Splash a little STA-BIL in there. Run the engine to get it warm, then shut off the tank-to-carb gas valve (if there is one). It should run for a time with the gas left in the carb. While it's doing that, throttle the engine up & spritz some WD-40 or CRC in the air intake until it smokes really good, then really shoot the stuff in to cause the engine to quit. Empty what's left in the gas tank, and you should be OK. If you can't drain the carb, the STA-BIL in the gas should keep what fuel is in there OK.
H
hcooper
Do you use echo oil for mixing your 50:to1 mix. If so it has fuel stabilizers in it so your 2 stroke stuff shouldn't be a problem, you shouldn't have to drain them but I'd still run them once in a while. If you're not comfortable with what I'm saying don't do it. You do what you think is right. You can always go with the sta-bil that everyone talks about.
Try what I've done for years with 2-cycle and 4-cycle engines: Empty the gas tank, but leave a few ounces in it. Splash a little STA-BIL in there. Run the engine to get it warm, then shut off the tank-to-carb gas valve (if there is one). It should run for a time with the gas left in the carb. While it's doing that, throttle the engine up & spritz some WD-40 or CRC in the air intake until it smokes really good, then really shoot the stuff in to cause the engine to quit. Empty what's left in the gas tank, and you should be OK. If you can't drain the carb, the STA-BIL in the gas should keep what fuel is in there OK.
#47
P
phcaan
P
phcaan
Up until about 18 months ago I never ran anything out, never used fuel stabilizers, and kept two stroke mix all through the winter and used it up in the spring. I did not have many problems. But all of a sudden I had nothing but problems all fuel related. About that same time I discovered that many engine makers seem to consider anything carb related to be the fault of the gas you run and do not warranty their fuel systems very well and the newer they are the more picky they seem to be. I think it is going to be much worse over the next few years. So I became real religious about fuel stabilizers, fresh fuel, fuel containers, higher octane fuel, fuel without booze in it, and off season storage. i also began to talk to classic car owners, motorcycle folks, boaters, and neighbors. Some of the stuff they showed me was pretty amazing. A bottle of fuel stabilizer is pretty cheap. Honda engines are known to be expensive to repair. Many two stroke oils have stabilizers in the mix. If they were not a good idea then I do not think they would put them in the oil.
What is a good brand of fuel stabilizer to use?
I have been using SeaFoam for a couple of years in everything, trimmers, chainsaws, lawnmower and everything else. Every Spring it all fires up first try and runs all summer just fine. SeaFoam 1oz per gallon of gas.
#48
M
mowerdoc
M
mowerdoc
As a small engine mechanic I'm pretty familiar with the fuel problems we've been having the last few years. For winter storage I use Sta-bil fuel stabilizer in everything. Add it to the tank and run the machine long enough to completely circulate it through the carburetor. I don't have any starting problems in the spring. I also add it to my fuel cotainers, again no problems.
#49
Lawnboy18
How much should be added to the tank? I have some, but it states for 3 liters and something like 75 liters and I am not sure how much gas I have in my mower's tank. Do I just poor a shot and mix it with a stick and let the machine run for a while?
Lawnboy18
As a small engine mechanic I'm pretty familiar with the fuel problems we've been having the last few years. For winter storage I use Sta-bil fuel stabilizer in everything. Add it to the tank and run the machine long enough to completely circulate it through the carburetor. I don't have any starting problems in the spring. I also add it to my fuel cotainers, again no problems.
How much should be added to the tank? I have some, but it states for 3 liters and something like 75 liters and I am not sure how much gas I have in my mower's tank. Do I just poor a shot and mix it with a stick and let the machine run for a while?
#50
I
itguy08
Not sure on that as I add it to my gas cans when I buy gas. I think I use 2oz to 5 gallons of the red Sta Bil. You could look at the specs for your gas tank and approximate it from there. However I will say the previous owners of out house left us a bottle of "Honda" stabilizer that said it was made by Sta Bil. I've been dumping it in a huge shot at a time to the push mower and it doesn't seem to care. I don't know if you can add too much.
I
itguy08
How much should be added to the tank? I have some, but it states for 3 liters and something like 75 liters and I am not sure how much gas I have in my mower's tank. Do I just poor a shot and mix it with a stick and let the machine run for a while?
Not sure on that as I add it to my gas cans when I buy gas. I think I use 2oz to 5 gallons of the red Sta Bil. You could look at the specs for your gas tank and approximate it from there. However I will say the previous owners of out house left us a bottle of "Honda" stabilizer that said it was made by Sta Bil. I've been dumping it in a huge shot at a time to the push mower and it doesn't seem to care. I don't know if you can add too much.
#51
H
Hustling
Best advice yet, add the stabile and drive around a minute and run for 5 minutes shut it off and forget it till spring. Start it once a month for a few minutes if it makes you happy. Some of the new motors seem to be more sensitive to old gas. I had a craftsman snow blower that did not get run enough and pretty much didn't want to start and run when I needed it to. On the other hand I have an old 70's Wheelhorse Horse rototiller and I think I could put terpantine in the tank and run it.
H
Hustling
As a small engine mechanic I'm pretty familiar with the fuel problems we've been having the last few years. For winter storage I use Sta-bil fuel stabilizer in everything. Add it to the tank and run the machine long enough to completely circulate it through the carburetor. I don't have any starting problems in the spring. I also add it to my fuel cotainers, again no problems.
Best advice yet, add the stabile and drive around a minute and run for 5 minutes shut it off and forget it till spring. Start it once a month for a few minutes if it makes you happy. Some of the new motors seem to be more sensitive to old gas. I had a craftsman snow blower that did not get run enough and pretty much didn't want to start and run when I needed it to. On the other hand I have an old 70's Wheelhorse Horse rototiller and I think I could put terpantine in the tank and run it.
#52
Lawnboy18
Yea, that is my main concern. If too much can harm. Thanks for the help!
Lawnboy18
Not sure on that as I add it to my gas cans when I buy gas. I think I use 2oz to 5 gallons of the red Sta Bil. You could look at the specs for your gas tank and approximate it from there. However I will say the previous owners of out house left us a bottle of "Honda" stabilizer that said it was made by Sta Bil. I've been dumping it in a huge shot at a time to the push mower and it doesn't seem to care. I don't know if you can add too much.
Yea, that is my main concern. If too much can harm. Thanks for the help!
#53
I
itguy08
No problem. The only thing I can say is before I got the rider, I was burning through a tank of gas per cut in the push mower so it was going in and out pretty quick. Didn't seem to bother it at all and I had to clean the carb (debris got in as I had no filter on it) a couple weeks ago and the carb was clean as a whistle other than some debris at the bottom.
I
itguy08
Yea, that is my main concern. If too much can harm. Thanks for the help!
No problem. The only thing I can say is before I got the rider, I was burning through a tank of gas per cut in the push mower so it was going in and out pretty quick. Didn't seem to bother it at all and I had to clean the carb (debris got in as I had no filter on it) a couple weeks ago and the carb was clean as a whistle other than some debris at the bottom.
#54
bobthewoodbutcher
bobthewoodbutcher
This is my first year for electric start. What about the battery? I plan to remove it and store it on a shelf in the basement. How often do you top off the charge?
I have a portable "jump starter" that I have kept keep in the unheated garage or trunk of the car and it has never failed me after 7-8 years. I top off the charge on that about once a month. I know the clock is ticking and batteries do not last forever.
As far as gas goes, I always run the tank dry and use it in the snow blower. It is basically fresh gas year around. The generator uses 92+ so I do use stabilizer in that tank and I do not store more that what is in the tank.
I have had no problems with gas...so far...knock on wood ...etc.
I no longer have any oil/mix engines
Ps: Do you put your riders on blocks over the winter? Mine will be stored outdoors under a fitted cover.
I have a portable "jump starter" that I have kept keep in the unheated garage or trunk of the car and it has never failed me after 7-8 years. I top off the charge on that about once a month. I know the clock is ticking and batteries do not last forever.
As far as gas goes, I always run the tank dry and use it in the snow blower. It is basically fresh gas year around. The generator uses 92+ so I do use stabilizer in that tank and I do not store more that what is in the tank.
I have had no problems with gas...so far...knock on wood ...etc.
I no longer have any oil/mix engines
Ps: Do you put your riders on blocks over the winter? Mine will be stored outdoors under a fitted cover.
#55
exotion
I keep all spare batteries on trickle chargers with auto shut off all winter can get them cheap at harbor freight takes nearly no electricity, blocks seem like over kill, and make sure your cover is vented
exotion
This is my first year for electric start. What about the battery? I plan to remove it and store it on a shelf in the basement. How often do you top off the charge?
I have a portable "jump starter" that I have kept keep in the unheated garage or trunk of the car and it has never failed me after 7-8 years. I top off the charge on that about once a month. I know the clock is ticking and batteries do not last forever.
As far as gas goes, I always run the tank dry and use it in the snow blower. It is basically fresh gas year around. The generator uses 92+ so I do use stabilizer in that tank and I do not store more that what is in the tank.
I have had no problems with gas...so far...knock on wood ...etc.
I no longer have any oil/mix engines
Ps: Do you put your riders on blocks over the winter? Mine will be stored outdoors under a fitted cover.
I keep all spare batteries on trickle chargers with auto shut off all winter can get them cheap at harbor freight takes nearly no electricity, blocks seem like over kill, and make sure your cover is vented
#56
R
RaulMcCai
R
RaulMcCai
Varnishing. That's it as it regards fuel and storage winter or otherwise.
An anecdote:
I bought a 1990 Toyota pickup 4 cylinder brand new in 1990
Drove it as my main vehicle for years.
In 94 I Got a Bmmr and that became my regular transport
In 2003 The truck Which had been used the lumber yard truck and as a yard machine/glorified wheelbarrow had a carburetor failure.
I own a lot of acres with older trees to deal with so use was not too irregular.
I bought a used carb and hired a local mechanic to install it.
He told me that the old carb was so varnished up that there was no hope for it at all and tossing it was all there was for it.
Gasoline Varnish happens
Do with that what you will.
An anecdote:
I bought a 1990 Toyota pickup 4 cylinder brand new in 1990
Drove it as my main vehicle for years.
In 94 I Got a Bmmr and that became my regular transport
In 2003 The truck Which had been used the lumber yard truck and as a yard machine/glorified wheelbarrow had a carburetor failure.
I own a lot of acres with older trees to deal with so use was not too irregular.
I bought a used carb and hired a local mechanic to install it.
He told me that the old carb was so varnished up that there was no hope for it at all and tossing it was all there was for it.
Gasoline Varnish happens
Do with that what you will.
#57
cpurvis
I believe your mechanic gave you bad advice.
cpurvis
Varnishing.
He told me that the old carb was so varnished up that there was no hope for it at all and tossing it was all there was for it.
I believe your mechanic gave you bad advice.
#58
F
fordman55
F
fordman55
i allways use the "high test" "ethanol free" gas in all my equipment, classic cars and small engines. it doesnt ruin carburators and will be good in spring to start easy and not have problems. either that or i used to use "startron" gas additive to eliminate the ethanol problems.n as far as 2cycle goes , i buy the pre mixed ethanol free gas at home depot , or tractor supply.
#59
B
broo
B
broo
The only way for me to get ethanol free fuel it to get Shell 91 octane.
To that I always add Sta-bil, whether it's the last tank of the season or not. This way, the fuel is always treated. I don't go through that much fuel per season so it's a cheap insurance.
To that I always add Sta-bil, whether it's the last tank of the season or not. This way, the fuel is always treated. I don't go through that much fuel per season so it's a cheap insurance.
#60
P
patrick_g
P
patrick_g
STABIL, STABIL, STABIL Use STABIL to treat fuel to be stored for very long, especially over a whole winter. If properly winterized for storage, running every few weeks or once a month is unneeded. Some folks remove the spark-plug(s) and put in some oil then crank the engine to spread the lube. They swear by the process. I don't do it and get good results.
Concerned for battery? How cold are your winters? Get a battery maintainer (not for charging dead batteries, used for maintaining the charge of a battery.) You live where winter temps are way below zero? Remove it and take it indoors A N D use a battery maintainer. Harbor Freight has them on sale for a few bucks every so often. I have several and never a failure. A couple more expensive American brands failed but not the HF units.
Concerned for battery? How cold are your winters? Get a battery maintainer (not for charging dead batteries, used for maintaining the charge of a battery.) You live where winter temps are way below zero? Remove it and take it indoors A N D use a battery maintainer. Harbor Freight has them on sale for a few bucks every so often. I have several and never a failure. A couple more expensive American brands failed but not the HF units.