Wild cat issues

bertsmobile1

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The ignition is self powering but the motor requires power to hold the fuel shut off solenoid open.
If it has a powered electronic speed control that will require some electricity as well.
However the biggest power gobbler is the electric PTO which eats up 1/2 or more of the alternator output, if everything is working properly.
Because power takes the easiest path, if there is a short it will all go through the short.
 

Williams1020

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The ignition is self powering but the motor requires power to hold the fuel shut off solenoid open.
If it has a powered electronic speed control that will require some electricity as well.
However the biggest power gobbler is the electric PTO which eats up 1/2 or more of the alternator output, if everything is working properly.
Because power takes the easiest path, if there is a short it will all go through the short.

Everything is not working properly.
The pto wont engage at low rpm.
I try to engage the pto at low rpm to keep stress off the belts.
When i activate the switch, the pto wont engage till i increase throttle to half power.
 

BlazNT

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You should not engage PTO below at least 1/2 throttle. I use 3/4 and higher throttle. Have you read the owners manual? it will tell you what your PTO is designed to do.
 

bertsmobile1

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Everything is not working properly.
The pto wont engage at low rpm.
I try to engage the pto at low rpm to keep stress off the belts.
When i activate the switch, the pto wont engage till i increase throttle to half power.

Because the voltage from the battery is too low and the alternator is not putting out full volts ay !/2 speed as per the previous answer
 

Williams1020

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So i checked the volts from my new battery with engine off (showing 11.43).
Then i checked it again with mower running at full throttle and its showing same volts or it will fluctuate from 11 ish to 13 something.
Seems its charging none or a bad connection and only charging some of the time.
 

577jersey

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So i checked the volts from my new battery with engine off (showing 11.43).
Then i checked it again with mower running at full throttle and its showing same volts or it will fluctuate from 11 ish to 13 something.
Seems its charging none or a bad connection and only charging some of the time.
Try running about 1/2 throttle and see what it does...I’ve noticed a good stator will charge close to 15v most of the time..1/4 to half throttle.
 

Mad Mackie

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All Scag machines have a model number and a serial/vin number.
Providing this information allows us to find your specific machine manuals on the Scag website and better diagnose the problems with your specific machine.
New batteries always need to be charged prior to use.
Charging system basics:
The stator on the engine and under the flywheel puts out AC at around 30 volts with the engine running. This is the input to regulator/rectifier.
As part of the AC is the wrong polarity, the regulator/rectifier blocks the wrong polarity and allows the correct polarity of the AC to pass thru, this is the function of the rectifier.
The correct polarity electricity passes thru and gets regulated to the DC voltage range determined by the regulator portion.
The R/R output, which now is pulsating DC, passes thru terminals in the machine to engine harness connector, then to the 20 AMP fuse in the yellow wiring.
From the fuse, it goes to the power in terminal on the back of the key switch.
When the key switch is in the on position and the engine running, the charging system output passes thru two contacts internal in the key switch, back out the machine electrical harness, thru the 20 AMP fuse in the red wire, to the positive battery cable connection on the engine start solenoid and finally to the positive terminal on the battery.
The ground portion of the electrical system from the battery is connected to one of the engine mounting bolts as ground.
Items to quickly check:
Both fuses and the holders that they mount into.
Engine electrical connector to the machine electrical harness.
The electrical connector on the rear of the key switch.
The terminals that are on the grounding wires connecting to the engine mounting bolt.
From here a multimeter will be needed to further check the rest of the related electrical components/switches/connectors.
 

577jersey

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 3, 2016
Threads
14
Messages
436
All Scag machines have a model number and a serial/vin number.
Providing this information allows us to find your specific machine manuals on the Scag website and better diagnose the problems with your specific machine.
New batteries always need to be charged prior to use.
Charging system basics:
The stator on the engine and under the flywheel puts out AC at around 30 volts with the engine running. This is the input to regulator/rectifier.
As part of the AC is the wrong polarity, the regulator/rectifier blocks the wrong polarity and allows the correct polarity of the AC to pass thru, this is the function of the rectifier.
The correct polarity electricity passes thru and gets regulated to the DC voltage range determined by the regulator portion.
The R/R output, which now is pulsating DC, passes thru terminals in the machine to engine harness connector, then to the 20 AMP fuse in the yellow wiring.
From the fuse, it goes to the power in terminal on the back of the key switch.
When the key switch is in the on position and the engine running, the charging system output passes thru two contacts internal in the key switch, back out the machine electrical harness, thru the 20 AMP fuse in the red wire, to the positive battery cable connection on the engine start solenoid and finally to the positive terminal on the battery.
The ground portion of the electrical system from the battery is connected to one of the engine mounting bolts as ground.
Items to quickly check:
Both fuses and the holders that they mount into.
Engine electrical connector to the machine electrical harness.
The electrical connector on the rear of the key switch.
The terminals that are on the grounding wires connecting to the engine mounting bolt.
From here a multimeter will be needed to further check the rest of the related electrical components/switches/connectors.
Great post,,yeah I forgot the stator creates AC volts that feeds the rectifier then the rectifier converts it into DC...so to check the stator you need to find a wire schematic and see what wire feeds the rectifier AC and how much it should be.
 

Williams1020

Member
Joined
Jun 10, 2016
Threads
4
Messages
23
All Scag machines have a model number and a serial/vin number.
Providing this information allows us to find your specific machine manuals on the Scag website and better diagnose the problems with your specific machine.
New batteries always need to be charged prior to use.
Charging system basics:
The stator on the engine and under the flywheel puts out AC at around 30 volts with the engine running. This is the input to regulator/rectifier.
As part of the AC is the wrong polarity, the regulator/rectifier blocks the wrong polarity and allows the correct polarity of the AC to pass thru, this is the function of the rectifier.
The correct polarity electricity passes thru and gets regulated to the DC voltage range determined by the regulator portion.
The R/R output, which now is pulsating DC, passes thru terminals in the machine to engine harness connector, then to the 20 AMP fuse in the yellow wiring.
From the fuse, it goes to the power in terminal on the back of the key switch.
When the key switch is in the on position and the engine running, the charging system output passes thru two contacts internal in the key switch, back out the machine electrical harness, thru the 20 AMP fuse in the red wire, to the positive battery cable connection on the engine start solenoid and finally to the positive terminal on the battery.
The ground portion of the electrical system from the battery is connected to one of the engine mounting bolts as ground.
Items to quickly check:
Both fuses and the holders that they mount into.
Engine electrical connector to the machine electrical harness.
The electrical connector on the rear of the key switch.
The terminals that are on the grounding wires connecting to the engine mounting bolt.
From here a multimeter will be needed to further check the rest of the related electrical components/switches/connectors.

Tell me you are a beautiful girl about 27 yrs old with no kids and earn around 60 grand a yr lol?
Seriously! Thanks for the excellent post.
There is a tag on the deck that has model and serial number.
Model: smwc-61v
Serial: b6101767

And then there is another tag on the inside of the frame.
Model: stwc61v-26ka-lc
Serial: b5600717
 
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