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I purchased a Craftsman lawn tractor (model: 917.28724) and am disappointed. The accessory anchor-point ("hole") on the back of the tractor has completely ripped through and I am no longer able to attach any accessories. It is unbelievable that Craftsman would use metal that is so 'soft' that the weight of my leaf-sweeper (again, Craftsman brand) would cause the metal anchor hole to tear. Just no acceptable -- would recommend NEVER purchasing a Craftsman lawn tractor.

--Anyone seen/experienced this before with any other lawn tractor brand?

I seen it on MTD's and Murrays. Thats a first I seen it on a Sears/Craftsman.

You can make a repair yourself inexpensively by beefing up hitch area. Two pieces of flat steel 1/8" thick, 1/2" wide, and 3" long, along with 2, 1/4" bolts, 2 nuts, 4 flat washers, and 2 lock washers. Drill 1/4" holes 1/2" from end of both pieces of steel and place one topside the other underside after drilling holes through either side of hitch. Install bolts, flat washers, lock washers, nuts, tighten up and your good to go.

I have attachment for that hole. Its piece of steel with hitch ball on. Then bolt that steel with hitch ball on mower where that hole is.

You should see if they will repair it for you if the mower isn't very old. I would think it is a defect in the metal unless you were misusing it. Other then that it should be very repairable for a welding shop.

I have never seen this on a craftsman.
I would call sears they are good about fixing things like this

i always beef them up if there is any slop at all it will brake ....i beef it up a little

Stop by a place with a welder. Weld a thick washer on the plate. Ready to go. Now go buy the hitchplate davbell is talking about along with a lawntractor ball. Or just bolt the hitchplate and use the second hole for your implement. Lot of guys just make a plate from the middle portion of an old lawnmower blade. That way one hole is there and you only have to drill or blow the second one. I have seen full sized farm tractors with the same thing after enough hours of hard steel pins banging back and forth wearing the hole bigger and bigger.

As the guys point out , an easy fix, but surprising failure to me . My DYT 4000 never a problem with similar looking setup. Is it possible somehow your tongue acted as a battering ram on the outside radius of the formed flange area. For instance , repeated push forces by attachment delivered "blows" to the sheet metal instead of to the hitch pin? This could have work hardened the area and ruined the ductility . Just an idea.

A pretty common issue with any machine used to tow with. Curious as to what kind of hitch pin you used to start with. It can happen with any kind of mower. Get a washer welded on it or bolt a piece of flat metal over it with a hole in it...... It will be ok.

I pull my 5x8 utility trailer around with mine, and never have had any trouble. It might have been a defect I would call sears and tell them they need to replace it. They use the same draw bar hitch on cub cadet, bolens, john deere, husqvarna, ariens, etc.

Some easy fixes.
Drill holes and bolt it on.




I like these.

midnite rider said:

Some easy fixes.

Drill holes and bolt it on.

I like these.

Click to expand...

Great suggestions midnite rider. It can always be fixed, and most of the time better than it was before.