Where to find Walbro LMT 799728 Carb for 12.5 HP Engine?

seagiant

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  • / Where to find Walbro LMT 799728 Carb for 12.5 HP Engine?
Hi,
To be honest this whole project is probably not needed, but as I get older, electric start would be a good thing and...

The Engine on the Snapper now is a 9HP and the 12.5 would be welcome.

I would have to add a Battery and Solenoid, along with a new Switch but no problem.

Thanks, for all the info, Gentlemen!!!

SNAP-4.jpg
 

HomeyHal

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  • / Where to find Walbro LMT 799728 Carb for 12.5 HP Engine?
I just put an older 281707 on a Snapper. It came with a one piece flo-jet. According to my outdated engine decoder, yours could have used that as well. You might consider sticking one of those on until you find the Walbro that originally came on on your newer engine.
 

seagiant

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  • / Where to find Walbro LMT 799728 Carb for 12.5 HP Engine?
Hi,
Thanks, that Flo-Jet (2 piece) is what I have on my 9HP Power Built!

I think I can find a Walbro.
 

kluttzy

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  • / Where to find Walbro LMT 799728 Carb for 12.5 HP Engine?
Years ago I replaced an 8 or 9 hp engine on a Snapper 30 inch cut, single blade mower with a 12 hp. It would not stall. When cutting thick, tough grass the mower would pull to the right (or left, can't remember which). I believe if the blade had stopped, the mower would have started spinning, with me on it.
 

ba63

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  • / Where to find Walbro LMT 799728 Carb for 12.5 HP Engine?
I really don’t get all the fuss about running down OEM parts? In my experience, Nikki carbs are typically throw aways when they fail (definitely after they have sat unused with gas in them for a long time) and even a Walbro will eventually wear out. For all the time spent here, just plugging in the model number from the engine into the “interweb” will yield some exploded views of the engine and part/make-model numbers of which can be easil and quickly cross referenced. Yes, people hate the Chinesium carbs, but I just buy them Amazon Prime. I have found that if they are bad, they are almost always bad right out of the box. If I get a bad one, I just send it back and order another one, I think I have probably bought 10 of them this way over the years and I only had to send back two; in both of those cases, the second carbs were good to go. I have found that, as long as I drain the fuel before storing them for the winter, I get perfectly good service from them for at least long enough that I feel like I have “gotten my money’s worth out of them”, which for me is 3-5 years or longer. If they fail after that, I shrug my shoulders and order another one off AP. I guess I am just the type of personality that can’t stand calling around talking to people, getting no or bad information from them, or hitting dead ends when they don’t know how or don’t want to be bothered to help. I just want to find the cheapest part as quickly as possible and move on with the project! I also know from other past projects that even going to “legitimate“ parts sources can still yield you Chinese aftermarket parts anyway when OEMs discontinue parts for older machines and parts suppliers fall back on secondary sources. I once ordered a shift knob from a Jeep dealer. When it arrived, it was a HELP! branded part, like you get at the chain auto parts stores.
 

catman606

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  • / Where to find Walbro LMT 799728 Carb for 12.5 HP Engine?
I really don’t get all the fuss about running down OEM parts? In my experience, Nikki carbs are typically throw aways when they fail (definitely after they have sat unused with gas in them for a long time) and even a Walbro will eventually wear out. For all the time spent here, just plugging in the model number from the engine into the “interweb” will yield some exploded views of the engine and part/make-model numbers of which can be easil and quickly cross referenced. Yes, people hate the Chinesium carbs, but I just buy them Amazon Prime. I have found that if they are bad, they are almost always bad right out of the box. If I get a bad one, I just send it back and order another one, I think I have probably bought 10 of them this way over the years and I only had to send back two; in both of those cases, the second carbs were good to go. I have found that, as long as I drain the fuel before storing them for the winter, I get perfectly good service from them for at least long enough that I feel like I have “gotten my money’s worth out of them”, which for me is 3-5 years or longer. If they fail after that, I shrug my shoulders and order another one off AP. I guess I am just the type of personality that can’t stand calling around talking to people, getting no or bad information from them, or hitting dead ends when they don’t know how or don’t want to be bothered to help. I just want to find the cheapest part as quickly as possible and move on with the project! I also know from other past projects that even going to “legitimate“ parts sources can still yield you Chinese aftermarket parts anyway when OEMs discontinue parts for older machines and parts suppliers fall back on secondary sources. I once ordered a shift knob from a Jeep dealer. When it arrived, it was a HELP! branded part, like you get at the chain auto parts stores.
These are pretty much my thoughts too. I've ordered several carbs off of Amazon and I've gotten good service from all of them. The only thing that upsets me is when a part is listed as OEM and you receive it in a plastic bag. I recently ordered a gas filter for my generator from Amazon, ad said OEM Briggs & Stratton, when I got it...in a plastic bag. I was still going to use it, but I stopped at Ace Hardware to pick up a couple of the little tension spring clamps and hanging right next to the clamps was a real Briggs filter like the one I ordered and it was $3.00 cheaper. That done it, I returned the fake to Amazon. I'll order again though, I love Amazon.
 

StarTech

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  • / Where to find Walbro LMT 799728 Carb for 12.5 HP Engine?
I don't why it seems everyone is down on the Nikki carbs. To me they are one of the easiest carbs to clean and repair.

But yes many off the wall vendors will sub after market parts for OEM parts and try to get away with in. I caught one a couple years ago sell supposedly OEM Cub Cadet spindles and when they arrived they were the same Rotary spindles that were defective. I just mark them as a bad vendor and have never ordered from after I got my money back. What worst they charged the same as the OEM I later brought from the Cub Cadet Distributor.

Now there are both good and bad vendors on Amazon so it does pays to do your research. Just you have to do for eBay vendors. Just recently I had a need for a particular part and eBay claimed he had them in stock in Florida when in fact he didn't but dropped shipped them out of NC. He got a bad review for missing the delivery time and he was pissed that I messed up his perfect record. So what he dropped to 99.6% vs 100%, I told the truth and would not lie just to please him. He threaten me with eBay so when they contacted me I told the same story and he almost got suspended.
 

TobyU

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  • / Where to find Walbro LMT 799728 Carb for 12.5 HP Engine?
Yep, wrestling with a Nikki. I've seen them Amazon carbs have about a 75% failure rate.
One nice thing is they can usually be returned free and a refund given.
I've took two or 3 and make one. If they have the adjustable idle jet I take a dremel and cur the plastic limiter off and slot the end so it can be adjusted past the limits. Try to pinch break the plastic limiter will usually break the jet off in the carb,
I keep a couple pf the good Walbros around so as I can use it as a test to make sure that the Nikki carb is actually the problem. Sometimes when installing a Nikki you might have to do a static governor re-adjustment.
The restrictor gasket I mentioned is the one in the video that the guy installed. The restrictor gasket is supplied with some of the Nikki's and it blocks part of the intake air supply slightly reducing the engine HP and enrichens the intake slightly.
I've also had to drill/ream the H emulsion tube jet.
A good Walbro lets you know that the Nikki carb is ACTUALLY what needs modded. (some of the Walbros have both a low and H jet as adjustable)
Put out a saved search on fleece bay and you might eventually find a Walbro.
You will get a email notice if one surfaces when using the saved search.
What do you mean when you say the aftermarket carbs typically have about a 75% failure rate?
 

TobyU

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  • / Where to find Walbro LMT 799728 Carb for 12.5 HP Engine?
I don't why it seems everyone is down on the Nikki carbs. To me they are one of the easiest carbs to clean and repair.

But yes many off the wall vendors will sub after market parts for OEM parts and try to get away with in. I caught one a couple years ago sell supposedly OEM Cub Cadet spindles and when they arrived they were the same Rotary spindles that were defective. I just mark them as a bad vendor and have never ordered from after I got my money back. What worst they charged the same as the OEM I later brought from the Cub Cadet Distributor.

Now there are both good and bad vendors on Amazon so it does pays to do your research. Just you have to do for eBay vendors. Just recently I had a need for a particular part and eBay claimed he had them in stock in Florida when in fact he didn't but dropped shipped them out of NC. He got a bad review for missing the delivery time and he was pissed that I messed up his perfect record. So what he dropped to 99.6% vs 100%, I told the truth and would not lie just to please him. He threaten me with eBay so when they contacted me I told the same story and he almost got suspended.
Well, for a good number of years many Briggs engines came with either a Nikki or a Walbro.
I far prefer the walbro. I find it to be a simpler carb.
It's also easier to get individual parts for as Briggs didn't always have the needle valve or the plastic internal assembly for the Nikki but you could always walk into almost any lawn mower shop and pick up a brass seat and an inlet needle for only about 3 to $4 each.
I find a lot of people prefer the nikki(s) because there's no seat to remove as a lot of people don't know how, don't want to, or feel uncomfortable removing and replacing the seat but I have had far fewer walbro style carbs leak than Nikki(s) so this is another reason I prefer the walbro.
The gasket on top is also kind of an abomination.
There is no reason they had to make that plastic top assembly and the gasket so convoluted and nuts looking - but they did.
I have to stop both types of the Nikki gaskets because you never know after you remove a ball if the gasket will be able to go back into place or not because it often swells up.

This happens far less frequently on a walbro style and many other close enough gaskets will work but not the case on a Nikki.
 
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