Where to find Walbro LMT 799728 Carb for 12.5 HP Engine?

[seagiant]

Hi,
Thanks, looks like that is my best bet, unless, I get more info, from say an actual Owner that can tell me more.

Seems it should work with the Linkage.

"Funny", that I can't find the EXACT info I need, but no one seems surprised!

Does not say much about B&S's, organization even with modern Computers help, these days???

 

[StarTech]

The current Briggs company is not our father's Briggs. And when Covid hit a lot things just got majorly screwed up. Even the Kohler Dealer site has a lot of missing info.

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Thanks, I can believe it...

A LOT of things screwed up these days, but...

Better not go there, maybe an actual Owner, of this Engine will chime in with an actual, LMT- number.

 

[Forest#2]

Here is a link to view parts for your engine.
Briggs and Stratton 288707-0170-01 Parts Diagram for Carburetor (jackssmallengines.com)

Look at the item 125 carb at this link and when you look towards the bottom of the page it will show several models Briggs series 28's and other makes of machines that used the Walbro LMT carb. at this link
Briggs and Stratton 799728 Carburetor - Jacks Small Engines

You will most likely end up getting a $15 Nikki carb so as to test the engine, since you have never seen the old L-head type engine run. (try not to throw good money into something bad)
(and you will find that one size does not fit all with the Nikki replacements)
What I'm indicating is internally inside the carb unless you buy two at a time and then you can play with enlarging the jets if the engine runs lean if both carbs are exactly the same. Take two carbs and make one. You might get lucky and get a good run first time with the Nikki, but I'm usually not that lucky when playing around with Nikki carb replacements.
In meantime you can keep a eye open for a 28 old model 28 series Briggs engine that has a Walbro carb. (The Walbro carbs are more user friendly for myself and my engines vs playing with the Nikki's)
Quite common for a Nikki carb on a 28 series Briggs engine to surge and hunt, especially when the engine is cold. Adding a restrictor plate will sometimes help reduce surging (and some Nikki replacements come with a restrictor plate gasket or adding little bit of choke, but yours has the choke plate on the throttle linkage a full open throttle.

As Star Tech relates calling the current Briggs place is a waste of time and effort. You can get better hands on info at this site for problems such as yours because been there, done that.

Here is a good reference link for small engine carb repairs. (all kinds of small engine carbs)
https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Thank you very much, I hope to stay away from the Nikki Carbs altogether by going with a used Walbro.

They do seem to be available, if looked for.

Nice link on the different Carbs, still amazed, I can't find exactly what model Carb this Engine had when it left Briggs?

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Saw this, using a Chinese Knock off!

 

[Forest#2]

Yep, wrestling with a Nikki. I've seen them Amazon carbs have about a 75% failure rate.
One nice thing is they can usually be returned free and a refund given.
I've took two or 3 and make one. If they have the adjustable idle jet I take a dremel and cur the plastic limiter off and slot the end so it can be adjusted past the limits. Try to pinch break the plastic limiter will usually break the jet off in the carb,
I keep a couple pf the good Walbros around so as I can use it as a test to make sure that the Nikki carb is actually the problem. Sometimes when installing a Nikki you might have to do a static governor re-adjustment.
The restrictor gasket I mentioned is the one in the video that the guy installed. The restrictor gasket is supplied with some of the Nikki's and it blocks part of the intake air supply slightly reducing the engine HP and enrichens the intake slightly.
I've also had to drill/ream the H emulsion tube jet.
A good Walbro lets you know that the Nikki carb is ACTUALLY what needs modded. (some of the Walbros have both a low and H jet as adjustable)
Put out a saved search on fleece bay and you might eventually find a Walbro.
You will get a email notice if one surfaces when using the saved search.

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
Thanks, made a call to a Shop in the next town...

Told the Owner I was looking for used B&S Engine Parts...

He said I could run by and look in the pile, so will see what I can find, I like that!

Might have found another good place to scrounge!

Rather buy a Walbro and rebuild it, than a new Nikki or Knock Off!

Also need a Starter and a few other things!

 

[Forest#2]

Keep a heads up when removing/installing a starter on those blocks.
The bolts are short and one can be easily stripped out because it's not a straight shot for a socket.
Those engine starters use a fiber Bendix gear. Make sure the teeth count is correct and do not use a steel gear or the flywheel ring will get chewed up.
Two used starters is a good thing for doing a re-build. A worn out upper bushing is not a good thing either.
DBelectric is a good source for good new replacement starters at a reasonable price if you start having starter issues. Buying used starters is in same category as buying used carbs, have to keep a heads up and allow for cost of re-building and may have to suck it up and suffer a complete loss of effort. I've got couple of them snappers. One has both electric and manual rope crank on a 12hp engine and it will start easily on rope crank after not being started for several months. (use of non-ethanol gas is a good thing when small engines are not used often and also the gas tank being plastic helps reduce rusting and trash to carb.) The manual rope crank system is the old style that has the crankshaft stub. The newer style manual plastic rope crank models are not any good. They break easy.

 

[StarTech]

This why you use the Torx bit on those screws. I think it is a T-30 if I remember correctly. And you need rotate the starter Bendix so one of the flats is inline with the screw head.

As the starter gear it has to match up with the flywheel. These old engines used one of two starter gears depending it the flywheel ring was steel or not. 16 Tooth nylon gear used on plastic and aluminum flywheel rings and a 14 steel gear on the steel flywheel ring gears. IPL show both are possible choices.