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Where to find Walbro LMT 799728 Carb for 12.5 HP Engine?

#1

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Was gifted a 1997 Model 28 12.5 HP Power Built Engine with an iron sleeve.

Thinking of rebuilding it for my Snapper which has a 9 HP on it now.

The 12.5 came without the original carb though.

Wondering where to find a real Walbro or if it is even possible???


#2

StarTech

StarTech

You need to be looking in the mower engine bone yards for a rebuild-able one.

It appears that the great financial investors that current pulls Briggs strings have decided that the carburetor is no longer available from them since it a low volume item.

This is the way the industry is currently tending with OEM no longer supplying parts for many of the older engines. Even some of the new engines now are having parts availability issues. Just recently I had a less than two year Briggs engine that I could not even get an ignition coil for. Then there companies like Lincon that simply don't provide any parts for their engines.


#3

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

StarTech said:
You need to be looking in the mower engine bone yards for a rebuild-able one.

It appears that the great financial investors that current pulls Briggs strings have decided that the carburetor is no longer available from them since it a low volume item.

This is the way the industry is currently tending with OEM no longer supplying parts for many of the older engines. Even some of the new engines now are having parts availability issues. Just recently I had a less than two year Briggs engine that I could not even get an ignition coil for. Then there companies like Lincon that simply don't provide any parts for their engines.
Click to expand...
Check EBay for used Walbro carburetor. If you cannot find OEM carburetor and need one, buy an aftermarket carburetor. I have had really good results with them. Price will be roughly 25% for aftermarket versus new OEM.


#4

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Thanks, I'm going to call Briggs and find out the exact model Carb I need and the exact Starter.

Both were missing on this Engine.

It is electric start only.


#5

StarTech

StarTech

Well if you had only posted the model and type numbers most of us Briggs dealers could had look up the parts. Beside most vendor tat have parts lokk up would be able using those numbers.


#6

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Well, just got off the phone with Briggs and all they could give me for an ID number was the new number which is for a Nikki Carb?

I know the Walbro was a LMT but not what the exact number was.

All info on this engine is, Model 288707 Type 0170-01 Code 970307ZB

Thanks everyone!!!


#7

StarTech

StarTech

The 799728 is correct number per the IPL but they might giving the part number for the replacement carburetor on the replacement 219907-3026 engine. Which is PN 593432 but that would be jetted on the extra lean side for that 1997 engine you have. It will fit but would need to rejetted to work correctly on 28 cu in as it is for a 21 cu in engine.


#8

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Thank you very much, if anyone has info on the original Walbro LMT Model number...

I would be happy to learn it, sort of surprised it is this hard to find what Carb came on this Engine in 1997????


#9

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Well, made some phone calls and came up with 498027 which is the old replaced Carb Part Number.

That led me to a Walbro LMT 5-4993???

Not completely sure, but all I can come up with?


#10

StarTech

StarTech

LMT 5-4993 is the core carburetor before all the mods the Briggs does to it for a particular application. Several dozen main nozzles and idle jets along different linkage setups.


#11

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Thanks, looks like that is my best bet, unless, I get more info, from say an actual Owner that can tell me more.

Seems it should work with the Linkage.

"Funny", that I can't find the EXACT info I need, but no one seems surprised!

Does not say much about B&S's, organization even with modern Computers help, these days???


#12

StarTech

StarTech

The current Briggs company is not our father's Briggs. And when Covid hit a lot things just got majorly screwed up. Even the Kohler Dealer site has a lot of missing info.


#13

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Thanks, I can believe it...

A LOT of things screwed up these days, but...

Better not go there, maybe an actual Owner, of this Engine will chime in with an actual, LMT- number.


#14

F

Forest#2

Here is a link to view parts for your engine.
Briggs and Stratton 288707-0170-01 Parts Diagram for Carburetor (jackssmallengines.com)

Look at the item 125 carb at this link and when you look towards the bottom of the page it will show several models Briggs series 28's and other makes of machines that used the Walbro LMT carb. at this link
Briggs and Stratton 799728 Carburetor - Jacks Small Engines

You will most likely end up getting a $15 Nikki carb so as to test the engine, since you have never seen the old L-head type engine run. (try not to throw good money into something bad)
(and you will find that one size does not fit all with the Nikki replacements)
What I'm indicating is internally inside the carb unless you buy two at a time and then you can play with enlarging the jets if the engine runs lean if both carbs are exactly the same. Take two carbs and make one. You might get lucky and get a good run first time with the Nikki, but I'm usually not that lucky when playing around with Nikki carb replacements.
In meantime you can keep a eye open for a 28 old model 28 series Briggs engine that has a Walbro carb. (The Walbro carbs are more user friendly for myself and my engines vs playing with the Nikki's)
Quite common for a Nikki carb on a 28 series Briggs engine to surge and hunt, especially when the engine is cold. Adding a restrictor plate will sometimes help reduce surging (and some Nikki replacements come with a restrictor plate gasket or adding little bit of choke, but yours has the choke plate on the throttle linkage a full open throttle.

As Star Tech relates calling the current Briggs place is a waste of time and effort. You can get better hands on info at this site for problems such as yours because been there, done that.

Here is a good reference link for small engine carb repairs. (all kinds of small engine carbs)
https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/


#15

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Thank you very much, I hope to stay away from the Nikki Carbs altogether by going with a used Walbro.

They do seem to be available, if looked for.

Nice link on the different Carbs, still amazed, I can't find exactly what model Carb this Engine had when it left Briggs?


#16

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Saw this, using a Chinese Knock off!



#17

F

Forest#2

Yep, wrestling with a Nikki. I've seen them Amazon carbs have about a 75% failure rate.
One nice thing is they can usually be returned free and a refund given.
I've took two or 3 and make one. If they have the adjustable idle jet I take a dremel and cur the plastic limiter off and slot the end so it can be adjusted past the limits. Try to pinch break the plastic limiter will usually break the jet off in the carb,
I keep a couple pf the good Walbros around so as I can use it as a test to make sure that the Nikki carb is actually the problem. Sometimes when installing a Nikki you might have to do a static governor re-adjustment.
The restrictor gasket I mentioned is the one in the video that the guy installed. The restrictor gasket is supplied with some of the Nikki's and it blocks part of the intake air supply slightly reducing the engine HP and enrichens the intake slightly.
I've also had to drill/ream the H emulsion tube jet.
A good Walbro lets you know that the Nikki carb is ACTUALLY what needs modded. (some of the Walbros have both a low and H jet as adjustable)
Put out a saved search on fleece bay and you might eventually find a Walbro.
You will get a email notice if one surfaces when using the saved search.


#18

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Thanks, made a call to a Shop in the next town...

Told the Owner I was looking for used B&S Engine Parts...

He said I could run by and look in the pile, so will see what I can find, I like that!

Might have found another good place to scrounge!

Rather buy a Walbro and rebuild it, than a new Nikki or Knock Off!

Also need a Starter and a few other things!


#19

F

Forest#2

Keep a heads up when removing/installing a starter on those blocks.
The bolts are short and one can be easily stripped out because it's not a straight shot for a socket.
Those engine starters use a fiber Bendix gear. Make sure the teeth count is correct and do not use a steel gear or the flywheel ring will get chewed up.
Two used starters is a good thing for doing a re-build. A worn out upper bushing is not a good thing either.
DBelectric is a good source for good new replacement starters at a reasonable price if you start having starter issues. Buying used starters is in same category as buying used carbs, have to keep a heads up and allow for cost of re-building and may have to suck it up and suffer a complete loss of effort. I've got couple of them snappers. One has both electric and manual rope crank on a 12hp engine and it will start easily on rope crank after not being started for several months. (use of non-ethanol gas is a good thing when small engines are not used often and also the gas tank being plastic helps reduce rusting and trash to carb.) The manual rope crank system is the old style that has the crankshaft stub. The newer style manual plastic rope crank models are not any good. They break easy.


#20

StarTech

StarTech

This why you use the Torx bit on those screws. I think it is a T-30 if I remember correctly. And you need rotate the starter Bendix so one of the flats is inline with the screw head.

As the starter gear it has to match up with the flywheel. These old engines used one of two starter gears depending it the flywheel ring was steel or not. 16 Tooth nylon gear used on plastic and aluminum flywheel rings and a 14 steel gear on the steel flywheel ring gears. IPL show both are possible choices.


#21

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
To be honest this whole project is probably not needed, but as I get older, electric start would be a good thing and...

The Engine on the Snapper now is a 9HP and the 12.5 would be welcome.

I would have to add a Battery and Solenoid, along with a new Switch but no problem.

Thanks, for all the info, Gentlemen!!!

SNAP-4.jpg


#22

H

HomeyHal

I just put an older 281707 on a Snapper. It came with a one piece flo-jet. According to my outdated engine decoder, yours could have used that as well. You might consider sticking one of those on until you find the Walbro that originally came on on your newer engine.


#23

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Thanks, that Flo-Jet (2 piece) is what I have on my 9HP Power Built!

I think I can find a Walbro.


#24

W

watergate528

Carb.
Try this.


#25

K

kluttzy

Years ago I replaced an 8 or 9 hp engine on a Snapper 30 inch cut, single blade mower with a 12 hp. It would not stall. When cutting thick, tough grass the mower would pull to the right (or left, can't remember which). I believe if the blade had stopped, the mower would have started spinning, with me on it.


#26

B

ba63

I really don’t get all the fuss about running down OEM parts? In my experience, Nikki carbs are typically throw aways when they fail (definitely after they have sat unused with gas in them for a long time) and even a Walbro will eventually wear out. For all the time spent here, just plugging in the model number from the engine into the “interweb” will yield some exploded views of the engine and part/make-model numbers of which can be easil and quickly cross referenced. Yes, people hate the Chinesium carbs, but I just buy them Amazon Prime. I have found that if they are bad, they are almost always bad right out of the box. If I get a bad one, I just send it back and order another one, I think I have probably bought 10 of them this way over the years and I only had to send back two; in both of those cases, the second carbs were good to go. I have found that, as long as I drain the fuel before storing them for the winter, I get perfectly good service from them for at least long enough that I feel like I have “gotten my money’s worth out of them”, which for me is 3-5 years or longer. If they fail after that, I shrug my shoulders and order another one off AP. I guess I am just the type of personality that can’t stand calling around talking to people, getting no or bad information from them, or hitting dead ends when they don’t know how or don’t want to be bothered to help. I just want to find the cheapest part as quickly as possible and move on with the project! I also know from other past projects that even going to “legitimate“ parts sources can still yield you Chinese aftermarket parts anyway when OEMs discontinue parts for older machines and parts suppliers fall back on secondary sources. I once ordered a shift knob from a Jeep dealer. When it arrived, it was a HELP! branded part, like you get at the chain auto parts stores.


#27

C

catman606

ba63 said:
I really don’t get all the fuss about running down OEM parts? In my experience, Nikki carbs are typically throw aways when they fail (definitely after they have sat unused with gas in them for a long time) and even a Walbro will eventually wear out. For all the time spent here, just plugging in the model number from the engine into the “interweb” will yield some exploded views of the engine and part/make-model numbers of which can be easil and quickly cross referenced. Yes, people hate the Chinesium carbs, but I just buy them Amazon Prime. I have found that if they are bad, they are almost always bad right out of the box. If I get a bad one, I just send it back and order another one, I think I have probably bought 10 of them this way over the years and I only had to send back two; in both of those cases, the second carbs were good to go. I have found that, as long as I drain the fuel before storing them for the winter, I get perfectly good service from them for at least long enough that I feel like I have “gotten my money’s worth out of them”, which for me is 3-5 years or longer. If they fail after that, I shrug my shoulders and order another one off AP. I guess I am just the type of personality that can’t stand calling around talking to people, getting no or bad information from them, or hitting dead ends when they don’t know how or don’t want to be bothered to help. I just want to find the cheapest part as quickly as possible and move on with the project! I also know from other past projects that even going to “legitimate“ parts sources can still yield you Chinese aftermarket parts anyway when OEMs discontinue parts for older machines and parts suppliers fall back on secondary sources. I once ordered a shift knob from a Jeep dealer. When it arrived, it was a HELP! branded part, like you get at the chain auto parts stores.
Click to expand...
These are pretty much my thoughts too. I've ordered several carbs off of Amazon and I've gotten good service from all of them. The only thing that upsets me is when a part is listed as OEM and you receive it in a plastic bag. I recently ordered a gas filter for my generator from Amazon, ad said OEM Briggs & Stratton, when I got it...in a plastic bag. I was still going to use it, but I stopped at Ace Hardware to pick up a couple of the little tension spring clamps and hanging right next to the clamps was a real Briggs filter like the one I ordered and it was $3.00 cheaper. That done it, I returned the fake to Amazon. I'll order again though, I love Amazon.


#28

StarTech

StarTech

I don't why it seems everyone is down on the Nikki carbs. To me they are one of the easiest carbs to clean and repair.

But yes many off the wall vendors will sub after market parts for OEM parts and try to get away with in. I caught one a couple years ago sell supposedly OEM Cub Cadet spindles and when they arrived they were the same Rotary spindles that were defective. I just mark them as a bad vendor and have never ordered from after I got my money back. What worst they charged the same as the OEM I later brought from the Cub Cadet Distributor.

Now there are both good and bad vendors on Amazon so it does pays to do your research. Just you have to do for eBay vendors. Just recently I had a need for a particular part and eBay claimed he had them in stock in Florida when in fact he didn't but dropped shipped them out of NC. He got a bad review for missing the delivery time and he was pissed that I messed up his perfect record. So what he dropped to 99.6% vs 100%, I told the truth and would not lie just to please him. He threaten me with eBay so when they contacted me I told the same story and he almost got suspended.


#29

T

TobyU

Forest#2 said:
Yep, wrestling with a Nikki. I've seen them Amazon carbs have about a 75% failure rate.
One nice thing is they can usually be returned free and a refund given.
I've took two or 3 and make one. If they have the adjustable idle jet I take a dremel and cur the plastic limiter off and slot the end so it can be adjusted past the limits. Try to pinch break the plastic limiter will usually break the jet off in the carb,
I keep a couple pf the good Walbros around so as I can use it as a test to make sure that the Nikki carb is actually the problem. Sometimes when installing a Nikki you might have to do a static governor re-adjustment.
The restrictor gasket I mentioned is the one in the video that the guy installed. The restrictor gasket is supplied with some of the Nikki's and it blocks part of the intake air supply slightly reducing the engine HP and enrichens the intake slightly.
I've also had to drill/ream the H emulsion tube jet.
A good Walbro lets you know that the Nikki carb is ACTUALLY what needs modded. (some of the Walbros have both a low and H jet as adjustable)
Put out a saved search on fleece bay and you might eventually find a Walbro.
You will get a email notice if one surfaces when using the saved search.
Click to expand...
What do you mean when you say the aftermarket carbs typically have about a 75% failure rate?


#30

T

TobyU

StarTech said:
I don't why it seems everyone is down on the Nikki carbs. To me they are one of the easiest carbs to clean and repair.

But yes many off the wall vendors will sub after market parts for OEM parts and try to get away with in. I caught one a couple years ago sell supposedly OEM Cub Cadet spindles and when they arrived they were the same Rotary spindles that were defective. I just mark them as a bad vendor and have never ordered from after I got my money back. What worst they charged the same as the OEM I later brought from the Cub Cadet Distributor.

Now there are both good and bad vendors on Amazon so it does pays to do your research. Just you have to do for eBay vendors. Just recently I had a need for a particular part and eBay claimed he had them in stock in Florida when in fact he didn't but dropped shipped them out of NC. He got a bad review for missing the delivery time and he was pissed that I messed up his perfect record. So what he dropped to 99.6% vs 100%, I told the truth and would not lie just to please him. He threaten me with eBay so when they contacted me I told the same story and he almost got suspended.
Click to expand...
Well, for a good number of years many Briggs engines came with either a Nikki or a Walbro.
I far prefer the walbro. I find it to be a simpler carb.
It's also easier to get individual parts for as Briggs didn't always have the needle valve or the plastic internal assembly for the Nikki but you could always walk into almost any lawn mower shop and pick up a brass seat and an inlet needle for only about 3 to $4 each.
I find a lot of people prefer the nikki(s) because there's no seat to remove as a lot of people don't know how, don't want to, or feel uncomfortable removing and replacing the seat but I have had far fewer walbro style carbs leak than Nikki(s) so this is another reason I prefer the walbro.
The gasket on top is also kind of an abomination.
There is no reason they had to make that plastic top assembly and the gasket so convoluted and nuts looking - but they did.
I have to stop both types of the Nikki gaskets because you never know after you remove a ball if the gasket will be able to go back into place or not because it often swells up.

This happens far less frequently on a walbro style and many other close enough gaskets will work but not the case on a Nikki.


#31

StarTech

StarTech

Personally I don't have a problem with either one repair wise as long as you can get the parts. Matter of fact I install bushings in the twin barrel Nikki when ever need although the last one took a schedule 80 brass pipe to repair. Even the Walbro have to have custom bushings install sometimes. One the biggest problems I have is where the main nozzle on the Walbro had been screw up by someone that don't how to remove them. Nikki bowl screws are also F'd up by those that don't to use the right tools.

Now some Walbro you have to have the 1/8" vs the 1/16" bowl gaskets in stock.


#32

T

TobyU

StarTech said:
Personally I don't either one very to repair as long as you can get the parts. Matter of fact I install bushings in the twin barrel Nikki when ever need although the last one took a schedule 80 brass pipe to repair. Even the Walbro have to have custom bushings install sometimes. One the biggest problems I have is where the main nozzle on the Walbro had been screw up by someone that don't how to remove them. Nikki bowl screws are also F'd up by those that don't to use the right tools.

Now some Walbro you have to have the 1/8" vs the 1/16" bowl gaskets in stock.
Click to expand...
True about those bolts, but there is no reason for those things to be that tight.


#33

F

Forest#2

TobyU said:
What do you mean when you say the aftermarket carbs typically have about a 75% failure rate?
Click to expand...
I got that failure rate upside down. I get the Nikki's from Amazon prime and have about a 20% failure rate. (2 out of 10 that I can return for a full refund.
I usually just turn around and order another and get a go.
Usually about $15 for the single barrel type with free shipping.
What I've found that usually causes a good running carb to fail is long term storage from a machine not being used and or use of ethanol gas.
A Nikki carb that has been know to have ran good on a machine can usually be easily re-built right when it first starts running rough on a machine, but a new China clone that does not operate correctly when NEW is usually a waste of effort, especially when it can be returned for FREE.
Also no need in wasting money on more expensive carb just to test a used engine that might not be any good such as a oil burner.

But on another subject, on a new to me engine that I have never seen run that is missing lots of external parts I run a leak down test to get general idea if it's going to be a oil burner, head gasket leaking and if the valves are sealing, before I start spending any money to get a test run and then see a oil burner or worse.
Here is a link to a you tube video that gives some hints about working on a single barrel Nikki carb.

Another link to find carb kits and carb pieces at reasonably prices and shipping not inflated. (PLUS LOTS OF OTHER STUFF) They are a fast shipper to the lower 48.
Click on the menu bars at upper left corner and select for example Briggs and Stratton Carb (when you see a Nikki carb part number you have to search as a Briggs part number, NOT NIKKI PART NUMBERs)

Stihl Chainsaw Parts | Husqvarna Chainsaw Parts | Sawzilla Parts

Shop now for direct OEM replacement aftermarket chainsaw and small engine parts. All major brands including Stihl, Husqvarna, Poulan, Honda, Echo, Homelite, Briggs & Stratton
sawzillaparts.com sawzillaparts.com


#34

B

bertsmobile1

It is hard not to wet myself from laughter when reading all of these " I can not find the right carb threads "
There is nothing magical or mystical about any mower carburettor.
The only important thing is the mounting stud spacings
After that just about everything can be worked around
Now it will be easier if the replacement has similar orientation of the butterflys ( horizontal or vertical ) and the engine will work a bit better if the venturii is the same diameter and it is best not to mix carbs from gravity feed with pump feed as the float needles may need adjusting .
but when push comes to shove it is just 2 tubes at right angles to each other fuel goes through one & air through the other .You could put a 4 barrel Holly on there if you really wanted to .


#35

StarTech

StarTech

Bert one of the problem is that the DIYer don't the experience that some of us with carbs.

And the aftermarket folks are getting better at putting together a carb that meets the needed specs but I still have about a 50 % failure rate. By this I mean a carburetor that works right out the box without any mods.


#36

seagiant

seagiant

bertsmobile1 said:
It is hard not to wet myself from laughter when reading all of these " I can not find the right carb threads "
There is nothing magical or mystical about any mower carburettor.
The only important thing is the mounting stud spacings
After that just about everything can be worked around
Now it will be easier if the replacement has similar orientation of the butterflys ( horizontal or vertical ) and the engine will work a bit better if the venturii is the same diameter and it is best not to mix carbs from gravity feed with pump feed as the float needles may need adjusting .
but when push comes to shove it is just 2 tubes at right angles to each other fuel goes through one & air through the other .You could put a 4 barrel Holly on there if you really wanted to .
Click to expand...
Hi,
Soooo.....What was the original Carb put on this Engine out of the Factory???

Engine Model, Type, and Code has been provided!

Thank you!


#37

R

Rivets

All info on this engine is, Model 288707 Type 0170-01 Code 970307ZB If this is the engine you are asking about in your last post, Star said according to the IPL the original carb was Briggs part number 799728, which he replied to you in post #7.


#38

seagiant

seagiant

Rivets said:
All info on this engine is, Model 288707 Type 0170-01 Code 970307ZB If this is the engine you are asking about in your last post, Star said according to the IPL the original carb was Briggs part number 799728, which he replied to you in post #7.
Click to expand...
Hi,
That is not the original carb, that's a Nikki Carb and the original was a Walbro LMT but never found which exact one (no numbers!)

Maybe try that 4 barrel Holly! (good rep!)

Thanks!


#39

R

Rivets

According to the IPL that was the original carb, but if you don’t believe us you will have to find someone who still has Briggs microfiche cards and have them check for you. Yes, microfiche cards were still used in the mid90’s.


#40

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Well...Belief is not the question...

From what I can find out they quit making that Walbro LMT and then just used the same number to tag the Nikki with.

That looks good on paper and the parts computer down at the shop, but...

Does not give the info to find an exact Walbro carb!

Thanks!


#41

T

TobyU

seagiant said:
Hi,
Well...Belief is not the question...

From what I can find out they quit making that Walbro LMT and then just used the same number to tag the Nikki with.

That looks good on paper and the parts computer down at the shop, but...

Does not give the info to find an exact Walbro carb!

Thanks!
Click to expand...
It doesn't matter. Plenty of the IPLs for Briggs 28xxxx and 31xxxx engines show high in the IPL because they could come with either.
Any old laying around scrap mower engine with the similar carb can be fitted right on.


#42

M

mechanic mark

Results

www.briggsandstratton.com www.briggsandstratton.com

Replacement Parts for Briggs & Stratton, Echo, Simplicity, Toro & More

Use Small Engine Parts Warehouse's Quick Parts Lookup to Search and Locate the Replacement Parts by brand, model, or part number, fast.
www.sepw.com www.sepw.com
If you are interested: call Jerry at SEPW: 1-800-236-2333 has new OEM B&S Carburetor 498027 for $169.


#43

StarTech

StarTech

OF course you not going to know if it was fitted with LMT 92, 96 or LMT 5, 37, 41, 77, 81, 157 or similar number as that was a main variable at Briggs for tuning to meet a certain EPA spec. You have trust the IPL as which is correct carburetor that they finally settled on.

At least there is only two different nozzles used and I would with the standard nozzle.
1702290462257.png


#44

F

Forest#2

Bertsmobile1:
You might want to go pee before you start reading this info.
Just some general info about the NLA Walbro LMT carb replacements.
Here is a direct link to show the WALBRO carb that was used on that engine which shows a list of the carb part numbers and the models of the Briggs engines and your engine model is included in the list.

Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Walbro LMT Carburetor used on Briggs and Stratton Engines

outdoorpowerinfo.com outdoorpowerinfo.com

Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Walbro LMT Carburetor used on Briggs and Stratton Engines

outdoorpowerinfo.com outdoorpowerinfo.com
What is little bit confusing when trying to find a LMT carb now days is you cannot use the Briggs part number that was listed for the Walbro because it will take you to a Nikki replacement carb because the Walbro is NLA as a new replacement as you have also determined.
To find a Walbro LMT you will most likely have to watch fleece bay or visit some small engine repair shops and salvages to look for the LMT stamped Walbro and even then finding ONE that can be re-built is a roll of the dice due to someone already ruined the emulsion tube or the emulsion tube is corroded and cannot be removed. (as startech indicated)
The reason I have some Walbro LMT's plus several others is I would acquire them from small engine shops that replaces carbs instead of re-building them as non-working carbs, most were just given to me for parts others I would buy in bulk dirt cheap as non-working parts carbs, buckets full and I could take parts and pieces and make useable ones as a winter project. I usually only re-built the more desirable NLA types or the expensive type OEM replacement carbs. (Some OEM small engine new replacement carbs would be in the $300 area and that is why now days most people try to use clones instead of installing a $300 carb on a worn out end of life machine that might be headed for the salvage yard in few days trying to not throw good money at bad.
Look for the LMT stamp and MOST GENERALLY the main nozzle size will be ok for use on a single cylinder Briggs engines if the engine DOES NOT require MAX hp when being used. If you do not see the LMT, its not a Walbro. (even if they say it is)
Here is a picture of a Walbro LMT stamped carb on fleece bay.
www.ebay.com

Craftsman 15.5hp 42 Inch Lawn Tractor Briggs and Stratton Walbro LMT Carburetor | eBay

The tractor pictured is the one this part was removed from. It may fit other models as well. It was removed from a good running engine.
www.ebay.com


#45

seagiant

seagiant

Hi,
Thanks for that Forest!!!


#46

T

TobyU

So much effort, time, energy and words wasted on this entire thread for some apparent hang up over wanting an oem walbro which is completely unnecessary.
I prefer that carb over a Nikki but again it makes no difference..
This problem could have all been solved and the more could have been running well from any old carburetor, almost, that any lumber repair shop would have probably given you out of there Parts piles or their junk mowers or just go on eBay or Amazon and grab one that fits many, many, many of those 28 and 31 series engines that looks about like your old one.
Problem would have been solved and for only a few dollars.


#47

seagiant

seagiant

TobyU said:
So much effort, time, energy and words wasted on this entire thread for some apparent hang up over wanting an oem walbro which is completely unnecessary.
I prefer that carb over a Nikki but again it makes no difference..
This problem could have all been solved and the more could have been running well from any old carburetor, almost, that any lumber repair shop would have probably given you out of there Parts piles or their junk mowers or just go on eBay or Amazon and grab one that fits many, many, many of those 28 and 31 series engines that looks about like your old one.
Problem would have been solved and for only a few dollars.
Click to expand...
Hi,
Well, everybody got to express their views, and have some fun...

I admittedly learned more about Small Engine Carbs...

That's what Forums are for, ALL good to me!

Thanks!


#48

T

TobyU

seagiant said:
Hi,
Well, everybody got to express their views, and have some fun...

I admittedly learned more about Small Engine Carbs...

That's what Forums are for, ALL good to me!

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Yes, I am usually quite talkative and can write many novels or more accurately short stories on about anything but sometimes when the thing is just a circular conversation it's not really solving any problem whatsoever or someone is looking for an answer to a non problem or they have specific guidelines only they personally are worried about when there are plenty of other ways to get the job done I get a little frustrated.


#49

B

bertsmobile1

Forest#2 said:
Bertsmobile1:
You might want to go pee before you start reading this info.
Just some general info about the NLA Walbro LMT carb replacements.
Here is a direct link to show the WALBRO carb that was used on that engine which shows a list of the carb part numbers and the models of the Briggs engines and your engine model is included in the list.

Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Walbro LMT Carburetor used on Briggs and Stratton Engines

outdoorpowerinfo.com outdoorpowerinfo.com

Disassembly, Cleaning and Repair of Walbro LMT Carburetor used on Briggs and Stratton Engines

outdoorpowerinfo.com outdoorpowerinfo.com
What is little bit confusing when trying to find a LMT carb now days is you cannot use the Briggs part number that was listed for the Walbro because it will take you to a Nikki replacement carb because the Walbro is NLA as a new replacement as you have also determined.
To find a Walbro LMT you will most likely have to watch fleece bay or visit some small engine repair shops and salvages to look for the LMT stamped Walbro and even then finding ONE that can be re-built is a roll of the dice due to someone already ruined the emulsion tube or the emulsion tube is corroded and cannot be removed. (as startech indicated)
The reason I have some Walbro LMT's plus several others is I would acquire them from small engine shops that replaces carbs instead of re-building them as non-working carbs, most were just given to me for parts others I would buy in bulk dirt cheap as non-working parts carbs, buckets full and I could take parts and pieces and make useable ones as a winter project. I usually only re-built the more desirable NLA types or the expensive type OEM replacement carbs. (Some OEM small engine new replacement carbs would be in the $300 area and that is why now days most people try to use clones instead of installing a $300 carb on a worn out end of life machine that might be headed for the salvage yard in few days trying to not throw good money at bad.
Look for the LMT stamp and MOST GENERALLY the main nozzle size will be ok for use on a single cylinder Briggs engines if the engine DOES NOT require MAX hp when being used. If you do not see the LMT, its not a Walbro. (even if they say it is)
Here is a picture of a Walbro LMT stamped carb on fleece bay.
www.ebay.com

Craftsman 15.5hp 42 Inch Lawn Tractor Briggs and Stratton Walbro LMT Carburetor | eBay

The tractor pictured is the one this part was removed from. It may fit other models as well. It was removed from a good running engine.
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
Naw the tthread was not that long I got to th end of it before having to take a dump:rolleyes::poop:


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