Westwood T1200

Bolts are loaded in shear so thicker would be better
Don't forget the stabilizing brackets at the front that prevent it from rotating
 
Old gearbox off but I sheared 3 out of the 4 bolts holding it on. I'll drill out and retap.

The same bolt positions on the new gearbox I've drilled a bit bigger and tapped M10.

I had to swap the gear change plates over as different lengths.

Next I need to swap the pullies over as mine, the more orange, less rusty one has an extra hole for the pto to drive the grass box flails. Remaining wheel still refusing to budge!

20200517_153635
 
Support the wheel on some saw horses or similar with the box hanging down
heat the wheel and hit the axle with an air hammer
The 20,000 small blows a minute work a lot better than 1 big bang from a heavy hammer
Be careful not to flare the end of the axle
You can lay full body weight on the hammer before you pull the trigger.
I do them on mower with a pair of scissor jacks between the wheels & the body to put some weight on the axle and take the load off the internals .
Some have taken better than a day to shift.
They really rust on tight
 
bertsmobile1 said:
Support the wheel on some saw horses or similar with the box hanging down
heat the wheel and hit the axle with an air hammer
The 20,000 small blows a minute work a lot better than 1 big bang from a heavy hammer
Be careful not to flare the end of the axle
You can lay full body weight on the hammer before you pull the trigger.
I do them on mower with a pair of scissor jacks between the wheels & the body to put some weight on the axle and take the load off the internals .
Some have taken better than a day to shift.
They really rust on tight
Click to expand...

Thanks. Did exactly that on the first wheel that was seized on the new axle minus the air hammer. The wheel stuck now is on my original axle and proving tougher!

At the mo it's upended on saw horses and after copious amounts of penetrating oil the wheel dish is now filled with citric acid solution at about 19:1, water to powder. I keep a 72 litre barrel of the stuff on the go as my goto for stress free derusting. All the removed gearbox fixings are in there along with the tray that protects the u/side of the gearbox.

Strictly speaking I don't need to take this wheel off right now as I have the new gearbox with shafts all cleaned up and two wheels (holding air) sitting there ready to go. I will though so I can drill and tap out the sheared bolts. Still need to swap the pullies.

This "new" gearbox. Do you reckon I should spilt the casing now for any reason or just give it a little more lubrication with say some 75/90 on top of whatever's in there?

Was thinking to sand blast and paint the casing?
 
Well it is easier to split the cases now than it will be after it goes in.

And yes some fresh lubricant never hurts because the old stuff gets dry & hard if it remains in there at all.
A lick of paint never hurt anything
 
bertsmobile1 said:
Well it is easier to split the cases now than it will be after it goes in.

And yes some fresh lubricant never hurts because the old stuff gets dry & hard if it remains in there at all.
A lick of paint never hurt anything
Click to expand...

Cheers

Is the aim to remove the old stuff?

Is there an ideal viscosity for the lubricant?I've got access to various oils and greases, open gear greases that behave a bit like oil etc!
 
clicon357 said:
Borrowing this hydraulic puller that should make short work of the pulley changeover!

View attachment 52368
Click to expand...


You can not use a jaw puller on a welded pressed or spun pulley as it will destroy it.
You need to be able to clamp on the boss under the pulleywhci you can do some times using progressively bigger gear separators till the pulling points are outside the pulley rim
 
clicon357 said:
Cheers

Is the aim to remove the old stuff?

Is there an ideal viscosity for the lubricant?I've got access to various oils and greases, open gear greases that behave a bit like oil etc!
Click to expand...

No idea of what it should be like.
If there are seals then it was a liquid If there are no seals then it was a heavy grease.
When I open a box I can generally work out what was in there originally bu the color & smell
 
I'd like to get this wheel off the axle and the orange pulley off the old gearbox:

20200518_221449.jpg


I've tried MAPP gas on the pulley as per this video:


No dice. I think the gearbox in the video is larger than mine. No way can I get a bit of 4x2 in there! (Pretty sure in the video he whacks his finger at about 6.10 in...ouch!)

Tried the gear puller but it started bending the pulley flanges as predicted by @bertsmobile1

Going to try supporting the pulley on solid steel bars sat on metal builders stands rather than my plastic saw horses.

As for the wheel, that's equally stuck. Filled up the well with citric acid solution which has at least derusted the end of the shaft.
 
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