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Very steep slope

Oct 10, 2014#1

Lawnboy18

I got a new account. The yard is very tricky. It is on a very steep hil. To make things worse, there is this very steep slop of about 8 feet wide and atleast 200 feet long. The previous LCO would trim the whole thing. Tha lady wanted it mowed ideally. I said that I would do my possible mowing it. I tried mowing it from one end to another, but I had never experienced such a slope. I was just not able to mow straight (obviously). So bad that I just trimmed the whole slope (horrible). Would there be any way to mow this slope? I was thinking from going bottom to top, but that would take a very long time and I think it would be dangerous since the mower is in front of me and the moment I would slip or trip I get a 110 lbs of metal on me and my face. I also had to phone her and tell her that I had to raise my price since trimming takes much more time than mowing.

Oct 10, 2014#2

exotion

Up and down may be your best option. What degree slope?

Oct 10, 2014#3

Carscw

I would just have my wife use the trimmer.

She can cut it faster then I could with a push mower.

Oct 10, 2014#4

Carscw

Or use a front wheel drive push mower. They do hills so much better then the rear wheel drive.

Oct 11, 2014#5

E

edd

a cheap push mower if that is the only place I would use it or a walk behind.......my experience is you spend extra time making passes on a riding mower trying to stay on the hill

Oct 12, 2014#6

Ric

Lawnboy18 said:
I got a new account. The yard is very tricky. It is on a very steep hill. To make things worse, there is this very steep slop of about 8 feet wide and at least 200 feet long. The previous LCO would trim the whole thing. Tha lady wanted it mowed ideally. I said that I would do my possible mowing it. I tried mowing it from one end to another, but I had never experienced such a slope. I was just not able to mow straight (obviously). So bad that I just trimmed the whole slope (horrible). Would there be any way to mow this slope? I was thinking from going bottom to top, but that would take a very long time and I think it would be dangerous since the mower is in front of me and the moment I would slip or trip I get a 110 lbs of metal on me and my face. I also had to phone her and tell her that I had to raise my price since trimming takes much more time than mowing.

Can you post some pictures of the slope, it may help us understand a little better what your faced with and find an answer for the problem.

Oct 12, 2014#7

lawn mower fanatic

Carscw said:
Or use a front wheel drive push mower. They do hills so much better then the rear wheel drive.

Why do you like FWD mowers for hills? Won't you not get much power because the front wheels don't want to stay on the ground?

Oct 12, 2014#8

L

LoCo86

lawn mower fanatic said:
Why do you like FWD mowers for hills? Won't you not get much power because the front wheels don't want to stay on the ground?

It makes for turning the mower on hills easier by having free rolling back wheels. You just have to use a little more muscle. Which it seems no one wants to do.

Oct 12, 2014#9

Carscw

lawn mower fanatic said:
Why do you like FWD mowers for hills? Won't you not get much power because the front wheels don't want to stay on the ground?

If you go side to side the mower will pull in a straight line.

Oct 12, 2014#10

Lawnboy18

Thanks for the input guys!
I can get some pictures next week when I do it again. I don't have the % grade, but it is very steep. Almost a freaking wall. I have a hard time standing on it.

Thing is I don't have a fwd mower. I do have a cheapo push mower. Would that be ok? I just don't like the look of it trimmed since there are lot of grass clippings all over the place

Oct 12, 2014#11

exotion

The best way would prolly be mow down walk around and go down again if possible. However that's time consuming I would just get rly good at trimming than blow the clippings off to one side or down and raking them up

Oct 12, 2014#12

Ric

Lawnboy18 said:
Thanks for the input guys!
I can get some pictures next week when I do it again. I don't have the % grade, but it is very steep. Almost a freaking wall. I have a hard time standing on it.

Thing is I don't have a fwd mower. I do have a cheapo push mower. Would that be ok? I just don't like the look of it trimmed since there are lot of grass clippings all over the place

Assuming you have other clients, If you can't do it with a push mower the best thing you could do is tell her to find someone else to cut the lawn and move on because your not making any money there because your spending to much time doing it.

Oct 12, 2014#13

Lawnboy18

I adjusted my price according to that.

Oct 12, 2014#14

S

SeniorCitizen

Very steep slope that's hard to stand on isn't much for us to go on for giving advise. Pictures or not, take a level and a ruler with you and get the rise over run numbers to work with on the steepest portion of the slope. If you aren't familiar with that just ask and we'll help. If you slip and the push mower runs over you there is no price worth it. Same for a riding mower that loses traction and has a run away. You may spend half the extra money on a laundry bill.

Oct 13, 2014#15

Lawnboy18

Allright, I will try to get that for you.

Oct 13, 2014#16

E

edd

I keep a cheap push mower [ snapper from wal mart....250 dollars...self propelled ] for the place like this I have to cut.......if you use a weedeater it is going to wear the weedeater out quicker.......faster to use push mower......I have tried both ways

Oct 16, 2014#17

Lawnboy18

edd said:
I keep a cheap push mower [ snapper from wal mart....250 dollars...self propelled ] for the place like this I have to cut.......if you use a weedeater it is going to wear the weedeater out quicker.......faster to use push mower......I have tried both ways

I will try with the push mower tomorrow.

Oct 23, 2014#18

X-man

I have a steep hill, about 200 ft long and 10 ft wide, I do as much as possible going side to side with one of my push mowers, but most of it is so steep that I have to use the trimmer. It sucks.

Oct 23, 2014#19

exotion

You know sometimes when the designers are thinking about it they forget about maintenance. It happens let your price reflect it

Oct 23, 2014#20

Ric

X-man said:
I have a steep hill, about 200 ft long and 10 ft wide, I do as much as possible going side to side with one of my push mowers, but most of it is so steep that I have to use the trimmer. It sucks.

How about it????

Oct 23, 2014#21

Lawnboy18

I brought the cheapo Tory-Bilt and I was able to mow the whole thing. I must say I did a pretty good job. I had one hand on the extreme end of the handle holding tha bail. My other hand was on the lower handle. I would use that hand to push the mower and keep it straight.

Oct 23, 2014#22

Ric

Lawnboy18 said:
I brought the cheapo Tory-Bilt and I was able to mow the whole thing. I must say I did a pretty good job. I had one hand on the extreme end of the handle holding tha bail. My other hand was on the lower handle. I would use that hand to push the mower and keep it straight.

View attachment 23712
View attachment 23713

What would work there or what I would use would be The Turf Master or the Exmark 30" mowers. The weight of either of those mowers would give you better lines because they would hold the slope without sliding. That IMO would be the safest way and fastest.

Oct 23, 2014#23

Lawnboy18

Ric said:
What would work there or what I would use would be The Turf Master or the Exmark 30" mowers. The weight of either of those mowers would give you better lines because they would hold the slope without sliding. That IMO would be the safest way and fastest.

I am not sure. There are different forces applied to the machine. I tried with the Ybravo, but it just kept sliding down and wanting to flip over. Another issue is turning around at the end of the line. You don't have much room to manoeuvre so a cheapo light mower can be swingned around to be able to mow back. Last that I would want is to turn around with a 200 lbs. mower.

Oct 23, 2014#24

exotion

Have you tried an angle ?

Oct 23, 2014#25

Ric

Lawnboy18 said:
I am not sure. There are different forces applied to the machine. I tried with the Ybravo, but it just kept sliding down and wanting to flip over. Another issue is turning around at the end of the line. You don't have much room to maneuver so a cheapo light mower can be swingned around to be able to mow back. Last that I would want is to turn around with a 200 lbs. mower.

THe Y Bravo is 108lbs and the Troy Built goes somewhere around 80lbs. I think that's the reason there sliding and hard to hold in line. Neither one of the mowers, the TM or the Exmark go over 170lbs. Yeah it may be a little more trouble because it's a little heavier and I get into some pretty tight stuff with my TM but for the most part I don't have trouble maneuvering it around or making turns and even when that does happen my time savings over the 21" or on the job make it worth using. No matter what mower you choose to use if you do a perimeter cut first on the slope your turn around would be a lot easier to do.

Oct 23, 2014#26

Carscw

I would just use my toro z480

Or any riding mower.

Oct 23, 2014#27

Ric

Carscw said:
I would just use my toro z480

Or any riding mower.

I wondered if someone would come up with a ZTR. :smile:

Oct 23, 2014#28

Lawnboy18

Well if I get a walk behind next year I could try it there.

When I start with the trimmer I trim off a good amount at the end to let me turn around easily.

I am just not sure about that 30" thing. It is just more weight that will be pushed towards the bottom logically.

Oct 24, 2014#29

Ric

Lawnboy18 said:
Well if I get a walk behind next year I could try it there.

When I start with the trimmer I trim off a good amount at the end to let me turn around easily.

I am just not sure about that 30" thing. It is just more weight that will be pushed towards the bottom logically.

The weight should help hold it in place and help it from not sliding, that and the some what larger tires 8" x 2.25" front, 10" x 3" rear. If your getting those lines with a Troy Built the TM would be a lot better JMO

Oct 24, 2014#30

L

LoCo86

Lawnboy18 said:
Well if I get a walk behind next year I could try it there. When I start with the trimmer I trim off a good amount at the end to let me turn around easily. I am just not sure about that 30" thing. It is just more weight that will be pushed towards the bottom logically.

Just keep doing what you're doing. What's it take five minutes to mow that small slope. Where it would take probably longer with the 30" after having to manhandle the extra 100 lbs across it and turn it around.

Oct 24, 2014#31

X-man

Ric said:
<img src="http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/attachments/commercial-residential-lawn-mowing/23711-very-steep-slope-we-want-gif"/>How about it????

Sure, I'll post some later today... If I remember. Lol.

Oct 24, 2014#32

Ric

LoCo86 said:
Just keep doing what you're doing. What's it take five minutes to mow that small slope. Where it would take probably longer with the 30" after having to manhandle the extra 100 lbs across it and turn it around.

I don't understand your thought? :confused2: Why would you have to manhandle the mower and why would it take any longer for one mower to mow the slope than the other when they both are self propelled with the same 4 mph speed. Actually The 30" cut would be faster and less work because you can make less passes with it vs the 21"

Oct 24, 2014#33

Lawnboy18

If I had the money, I would try it out. 30" vs 21"

Thing is gravity. Take a light car it will roll down. Take a truck and that thing will roll down a lot more and need more brakes to slow down.

Oct 24, 2014#34

exotion

I don't understand in general that is not really a bad slope or maybe they are more common up here. Keep practicing go slow angle your drive wheels up the hill a little you'll get it.

I do that kind of stuff with my 21" all the time and its much heavier than either of your mowers

Oct 24, 2014#35

Ric

Lawnboy18 said:
If I had the money, I would try it out. 30" vs 21"

Thing is gravity. Take a light car it will roll down. Take a truck and that thing will roll down a lot more and need more brakes to slow down.

It doesn't really have anything to do with gravity if your mowing across the slope. I can tell you I do a lot of retention ponds in this area and some can be pretty steep and the Turf-Master will hold the slopes because it is heavy, 167lbs , it's also a wider wheel base and has larger tires than a 21". If you want to spend less money you can buy the Time-Master 30" for $974 now and it's 132lbs but you end up with a crappy B&S engine instead of the Kawasaki.

Oct 24, 2014#36

L

LoCo86

Ric said:
I don't understand your thought? :confused2: Why would you have to manhandle the mower and why would it take any longer for one mower to mow the slope than the other when they both are self propelled with the same 4 mph speed. Actually The 30" cut would be faster and less work because you can make less passes with it vs the 21"

Well you're not going to mow full speed across that slope. It's not that bad of a slope. I also say stick with the small mower cause it's not worth buying another mower for. I've said before that I don't understand having a 30" mower. I use a 21-22" push mower or the 36" walk behind. I know you guys say to get into back gates. But I've never mowed someone's yard who had more than 1/4 acre fenced in and most of the time I could get the 36" back there.

Oct 24, 2014#37

Ric

LoCo86 said:
Well you're not going to mow full speed across that slope. It's not that bad of a slope. I also say stick with the small mower cause it's not worth buying another mower for. I've said before that I don't understand having a 30" mower. I use a 21-22" push mower or the 36" walk behind. I know you guys say to get into back gates. But I've never mowed someone's yard who had more than 1/4 acre fenced in and most of the time I could get the 36" back there.

It's probably not worth buying just for that slope but you can use it for other mowing needs, most anything you'll use a 21 or 22 " for and it improves or increases your productivity something like 30% or more over the 21/22". I've done the 36" walk behind route, Had a G1336 and the 30" is far more maneuverable and cheaper to buy and run and yes it's easier with gates especially when you have a lot of 36" gates.

Oct 24, 2014#38

TaskForceLawnCare

the 30" push mower is $1,900 "show price" I just looked at it yesterday and today at the GIE. is it worth that? I don't know, I can throw a lite weight 21" push mower on a trailer for those odd spaces, and cost way less. I can also have two, 36" walkbehinds on a trailer. you get a nice used 36" walkbehind for $1,900, and get a piece of equipment with a lot more productivity capabilities.

as for that slope I'm with carsaw I'd put a 61' ZTR on it, most likely we'd use walkbehinds on that entire yard.

Oct 25, 2014#39

Ric

TaskForceLawnCare said:
the 30" push mower is $1,900 "show price" I just looked at it yesterday and today at the GIE. is it worth that? I don't know, I can throw a lite weight 21" push mower on a trailer for those odd spaces, and cost way less. I can also have two, 36" walkbehinds on a trailer. you get a nice used 36" walkbehind for $1,900, and get a piece of equipment with a lot more productivity capabilities.

as for that slope I'm with carsaw I'd put a 61' ZTR on it, most likely we'd use walkbehinds on that entire yard.

The 30" Turf-master and Exmark 30" can be purchased for $1699, that's what I gave for mine almost two seasons ago and that price was offered to me from two different dealers. As far as the 36" walk-behind goes, they serve a purpose but that's about all. Ive been that route like I said before and I'd never do it again form a new stand point or even used. #1 I don't like walking and # 2 if you invest in a good WB with a sulky it's a hydro model and your spending more money than its worth when you consider I've got the best of both worlds with a walk behind and a ZT in one unit with a Grandstand for not much more money and a whole lot better warranty.

Oct 25, 2014#40

Parkmower

This is unnecessarily dragged out. Just cut it and be done. I wouldn't think twice about mowing that tiny berm. TCB

Oct 26, 2014#41

Lawnboy18

Interesting discussion. I am on the fence for a 36" hydro.

Anyways, I guess I am just not use to steep slopes like that. I am just glad I got it done.

Oct 26, 2014#42

Ric

Lawnboy18 said:
Interesting discussion. I am on the fence for a 36" hydro.

Anyways, I guess I am just not use to steep slopes like that. I am just glad I got it done.

Getting it done is the most important thing no matter how you done it. :thumbsup: Doing steep slopes is a lot like riding a motorcycle, after a while it you become more confident with or in your ability's but at the same time you can't get to confident or you can get hurt.

Oct 26, 2014#43

Carscw

I mow a lot of steep slopes and I never forget that I could get hurt.

Was on a hill the other day and back tire got in a hole. Thought for sure I was going over.

I still like using a rider over a ZTR for steep slopes. I can jump off the rider. On a ztr you are trapped.

This winter I will be looking for a good deal on toro grand stand.

Oct 26, 2014#44

Lawnboy18

Carscw said:
I mow a lot of steep slopes and I never forget that I could get hurt.

Was on a hill the other day and back tire got in a hole. Thought for sure I was going over.

I still like using a rider over a ZTR for steep slopes. I can jump off the rider. On a ztr you are trapped.

This winter I will be looking for a good deal on toro grand stand.

Yea, it is easier to get out of a rider.

Toro grand stands are quite expensive new. I am sure you will find a good used one.

Oct 26, 2014#45

L

LoCo86

Carscw said:
I mow a lot of steep slopes and I never forget that I could get hurt. Was on a hill the other day and back tire got in a hole. Thought for sure I was going over. I still like using a rider over a ZTR for steep slopes. I can jump off the rider. On a ztr you are trapped. This winter I will be looking for a good deal on toro grand stand.

I've got a 52" model Grandstand I'll be happy to sell you. I just live up the road from you just 20 minutes north of Chattanooga.

Oct 28, 2014#46

M

mowerguy

Can you give more info on the grandstand. I may also be interested

Oct 29, 2014#47

L

LoCo86

mowerguy said:
Can you give more info on the grandstand. I may also be interested

It's the 2013 Toro Grandstand with the FS691 Kawasaki engine (23hp) with a 52" Turbo Force deck. It currently has around 55 hours on the machine and just has the normal scratches and dirt that come one with mowing. The only reason I'm selling this machine is that I can not stand for long periods of time from a car wreck that I had years ago. I thought I could handle it but after an hour I start to hurt. If it wasn't for that I would keep the machine. If interested in coming to see the machine just message me.

Oct 30, 2014#48

W

wingstrut

Lawnboy18,
It looks very simple, Using your rider, I would make one pass on the bottom of the hill, then one pass at the top, then mow what was left with the small mower, shouldn't be more than two passes.
The flat part at the bottom of the hill will guide your mower on the slope, in other words, you can't slide down the hill if you are at the bottom already.
The top of the hill is level so you won't have any problem there, so that leaves you with what's left and that isn't worth worrying about.
That tiny bit isn't worth getting another mower.

Oct 30, 2014#49

J

jrelkhunt

hire a neighbor kid to mow the slope with your push mower--It'll get done ,you pay her, and go on about your business

Oct 30, 2014#50

C

Chuckarn

It is hard to believe no one has mentioned golf shoes and a flymo.

Oct 30, 2014#51

Carscw

Chuckarn said:
It is hard to believe no one has mentioned golf shoes and a flymo.

Because 95% on here have no clue what a flymo is.

And would be a waste of money to buy a mower just for this little hill.

Oct 30, 2014#52

Ric

Carscw said:
Because 95% on here have no clue what a flymo is.

And would be a waste of money to buy a mower just for this little hill.

I know what it is and I wouldn't use one on a slope, it would work you to death trying to hold the thing from sliding down the slope.

Oct 30, 2014#53

C

Chuckarn

Ever use one swinging it side to side walking down a slope with golf shoes on? You should try it some time. I just missed buying one for $30 from the guy I bought my 42" Lawn sweeper from, didn't even know he had one or sale.
On a more serious side, I have read a lot and seen many videos on the Husqvarna Rider AWD. Wow front deck, all wheel drive, Hydro drive, I can't wait to get one.

Oct 30, 2014#54

ARMYtango

I know that you pretty much have your answer, but I just wanted to put in my input that I have a customer that has a similar portion of their yard like that as well.
I keep a push mower (rear wheel drive) on my trailer for such purposes.
I mow the whole place with my ZTR, then just take the extra few minutes to push from one end to the other on the hill....starting with going across the top and working my way down.
IMO, the safest, and cleanest way to do it.

Oct 30, 2014#55

Lawnboy18

ARMYtango said:
I know that you pretty much have your answer, but I just wanted to put in my input that I have a customer that has a similar portion of their yard like that as well.
I keep a push mower (rear wheel drive) on my trailer for such purposes.
I mow the whole place with my ZTR, then just take the extra few minutes to push from one end to the other on the hill....starting with going across the top and working my way down.
IMO, the safest, and cleanest way to do it.

Yea, from top to bottom is easier I realised. It kinda straightens out the lines.

Allways good to have more input!

Oct 31, 2014#56

tanner9595

Lawnboy18 said:
I got a new account. The yard is very tricky. It is on a very steep hil. To make things worse, there is this very steep slop of about 8 feet wide and atleast 200 feet long.

I have a simular situation, where the ground takes a quick 45 degrees slope and I prefer to dismount and use a front wheel drive push mover for best results. I have wingwalked it, but hate the idea of a rollover.

Nov 1, 2014#57

Ric

Lawnboy18 said:
Yea, from top to bottom is easier I realized. It kinda straightens out the lines.

Always good to have more input!

Actually the safest way is to Mow straight up and down slopes with a tractor or rider unless the manual says otherwise, which in most cases it says sideways or side to side across the slope and always turn uphill.. And mow side-to-side with walk-behind mowers, start at the bottom and work up-hill. and always turn uphill. Turning Down a slope can cause loss of control of the mower.

Nov 1, 2014#58

X-man

I saw some guys at a high school the other day mowing a ditch diagonally...

Nov 2, 2014#59

J

Jet

Lawnboy18 said:
I got a new account. The yard is very tricky. It is on a very steep hil. To make things worse, there is this very steep slop of about 8 feet wide and atleast 200 feet long. The previous LCO would trim the whole thing. Tha lady wanted it mowed ideally. I said that I would do my possible mowing it. I tried mowing it from one end to another, but I had never experienced such a slope. I was just not able to mow straight (obviously). So bad that I just trimmed the whole slope (horrible). Would there be any way to mow this slope? I was thinking from going bottom to top, but that would take a very long time and I think it would be dangerous since the mower is in front of me and the moment I would slip or trip I get a 110 lbs of metal on me and my face. I also had to phone her and tell her that I had to raise my price since trimming takes much more time than mowing.

You are not going to hang the hill the best with a zero turn. I keep an old John Deere rider for such occasions. At your own risk, disable the seat engine cutoff safety switch and when mowing the slope sit on the uphill fender and lean uphill. The mower will not roll but slide if conditions get too steep. Make sure the grass is dry as well. I have kicked butt with this technique. When you make your turns you must turn uphill and back down as you align for your next run transferring your weight as your uphill side changes. The deck adjustment handle gets in the way some but you will figure out how to straddle it so you can keep your weight on the uphill fender when mowing right side down. Turning downhill can be treacherous with either a ZTR or rider so beware NOT to try it or you may be in for a ride with no braking ability. This is the best you can do unless you purchase a tracked mower remote control operated, push it with a 2 stroke LawnBoy or trim it. Good luck.

Nov 2, 2014#60

Ric

Jet said:
You are not going to hang the hill the best with a zero turn. I keep an old John Deere rider for such occasions. At your own risk, disable the seat engine cutoff safety switch and when mowing the slope sit on the uphill fender and lean uphill. The mower will not roll but slide if conditions get too steep. Make sure the grass is dry as well. I have kicked butt with this technique. When you make your turns you must turn uphill and back down as you align for your next run transferring your weight as your uphill side changes. The deck adjustment handle gets in the way some but you will figure out how to straddle it so you can keep your weight on the uphill fender when mowing right side down. Turning downhill can be treacherous with either a ZTR or rider so beware NOT to try it or you may be in for a ride with no braking ability. This is the best you can do unless you purchase a tracked mower remote control operated, push it with a 2 stroke LawnBoy or trim it. Good luck.

What you are describing your doing with your JD rider is exactly the correct way a slope or hillside should be done but not on a tractor. Seat Safety switches are installed on mowers for a reason and If you have to disable the seat engine cutoff safety switch to mow a slope, you have no business being on this slope with that tractor.
A Stander would be a better choice simply because of it's lower center of gravity, that was part of there design. The Grandstand is noted for there exceptional hillside traction and handling. A Stander of some type should be your mower of choice for slopes or hillsides. If you can't mow it with a stander then a push mower should be you next choice.

Nov 2, 2014#61

Lawnboy18

Carscw said:
Because 95% on here have no clue what a flymo is.

And would be a waste of money to buy a mower just for this little hill.

I've heard about them. I just don't want to buy one for one account. Husqvarna makes one. So does Toro and Noma.

Nov 2, 2014#62

exotion

Seriously... This is a teeny hill. Just keep practicing with the 21" it will look better every week.....

Nov 2, 2014#63

Lawnboy18

exotion said:
Seriously... This is a teeny hill. Just keep practicing with the 21" it will look better every week.....

It's the plan for next year.

Nov 12, 2014#64

X-man

This is the hill that I get to maintain. If we had a ZTR I would be able to knock it out in 20 minutes, however we are stuck with the tractor, weed whacker and push mowers so it takes us approximately 1 1/2 hours to get it done.

Nov 12, 2014#65

X-man

The pictures make it look easy, but it's not.

Nov 19, 2014#66

grassroots

I would use a Flymo on a rope here in the UK. Simple and effective, imo.

Nov 19, 2014#67

Lawnboy18

grassroots said:
I would use a Flymo on a rope here in the UK. Simple and effective, imo.

I wish I could, but buying one for one yard would be expensive

Dec 5, 2014#68

B

bertsmobile1

For one yard , yes but you will soon find a lot of uses for a flymo.
they are bee knees for paths through lawns , much faster than a weed wacker and mow right up to the edge of the path.
Most will get to about 1" to 1/2" from a wall so again cut down the time for line trimming and always look a lot neater.
If you have a few driveways and sidewalks with grass on one or both sides the again it s out with the flymow and leave the trimmer on the truck

Mar 31, 2016#69

L

lewb

I have a very steep portion of my lawn, I have slipped several times going down hill. I really need better traction with my shoes. Are there any other shoes than golf shoes that will give me the traction I need. Problem is I do not golf. I probably need to go to some kind of a boot. Just looking for suggestions. Here is a video of the hill side and my mowing techniques. Going at an angle is much easier. I have a dura-force lawn boy that does much better with the slope than the M-series in this video.

Fast forward to: 3:13

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJ-PEjuQe44

Mar 31, 2016#70

W

Weedhacker

How about shoe aerators or ice cleats

Mar 31, 2016#71

Lawnboy18

lewb said:
I have a very steep portion of my lawn, I have slipped several times going down hill. I really need better traction with my shoes. Are there any other shoes than golf shoes that will give me the traction I need. Problem is I do not golf. I probably need to go to some kind of a boot. Just looking for suggestions. Here is a video of the hill side and my mowing techniques. Going at an angle is much easier. I have a dura-force lawn boy that does much better with the slope than the M-series in this video.

Fast forward to: 3:13

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZJ-PEjuQe44

Go the other way. It is also safer. If you slip, the handle will smack you in the face or knock your theeth off.

Mar 31, 2016#72

Ric

The manuals tell you to start at the bottom of the slope and mow across the slope moving or turning up the slope for the next pass. Never mow up and down a slope because you can lose control.

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Very steep slope

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