Tuff Torq K57 Transmission

mechanic mark

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My bro in law has an older Broadmoor model 1962776. It has held up pretty well for the use it gets. He mows a pretty rough farm yard. It has the big hydro gear trans vs the newer tuff torq. It probably has well over 1000 hours on it. Just last week had to replace the steering sector and pinion. He mows the edge of a 1/4 mile long gravel drive and the dust is insane. I have to pressure wash it everytime i work on it. Had to weld up the front deck mount where rough yard beats it up and replace the idlers and bearings in the deck last year.
That is why you should not use water to clean tractor, creates corrosion wearing out bearings & electrical parts prematurely.
 

Hammermechanicman

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That is why you should not use water to clean tractor, creates corrosion wearing out bearings & electrical parts prematurely.
I have pressure washed it every year i do annual maint on it. Over a dozen times. No electrical problems and the deck bearings were about 7 years old with lots of hard hours. He mows a farm yard that is very rough and sometimes doubles as a mini bushhog. The mower has held up quite well for 15+ years of hard use.
 

Mrjak2u

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Air compressor is just fine, just don't use water.
Hey Mark you said don’t use water why. The motor is not hot. I screwed up and used water. Afterwords started my mower ran great pulled off everything still good engaged the mowing deck everything still good then when I pulled off to start cutting grass it moved about a foot and that’s it. Trying to troubleshoot it, any idea?
 

wrldtvlr

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Water under pressure forces its way into electrical connections - creates shorts and corrosion. It also forces its way into grease bearings.
 

mechanic mark

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Hey Mark you said don’t use water why. The motor is not hot. I screwed up and used water. Afterwords started my mower ran great pulled off everything still good engaged the mowing deck everything still good then when I pulled off to start cutting grass it moved about a foot and that’s it. Trying to troubleshoot it, any idea?
Pick up a can of CRC Electronic Cleaner & unplug then spray then reconnect all electrical connections one at a time. Let us know how it goes, thanks, Mark
 

bertsmobile1

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People who pressure wash daily know how to direct the spray so that it does not cause more problems than it fixes
I have a low pressure electric unit I use for most stuff around the workshop and a big unit that will take paint off .
Joe average goes into the hardwear shop and sees a 1200psi ( more than enough pressure for nearly every job ) unit, a 1500 psi unit and for only $ 50 more a 3000 psi unit so they buy the bigger one because bigger must be better.
Even the small unit will blast water right past seals & into spindles & bearings, strip the grease off pivots & pins etc.
Now this would be fine if the mowers was run for 10 minutes to heat it up & expel the water then regreased but usually it is just sent to the shed .
 

Hammermechanicman

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I guess i am the evil shop. I pressure wash pretty much every mower than comes through the shop. I have the engine at full throttle and i stay away from the electrics. I usually let it run for 15 to 20 mins after i wash it. Been doing it for many years. I have done some mowers every year for 10 years. Haven't had any electrical issues on the mowers but i do expect all life as we know it to become extinct because of it. I use a hammer to remove flywheels, i don't use synthetic oil, i don't set valves at TDC. I use E10 gas, What a hack.
 

350Rocket

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My bro in law has an older Broadmoor model 1962776. It has held up pretty well for the use it gets. He mows a pretty rough farm yard. It has the big hydro gear trans vs the newer tuff torq. It probably has well over 1000 hours on it. Just last week had to replace the steering sector and pinion. He mows the edge of a 1/4 mile long gravel drive and the dust is insane. I have to pressure wash it everytime i work on it. Had to weld up the front deck mount where rough yard beats it up and replace the idlers and bearings in the deck last year.
Do you find the hydro gear transmissions hold up better than the tuff torq? I have a 2006 cub cadet lt1050 with 300 hours on it (came with the house we just bought). I'm trying to figure out if I can change the fluid. Information online is very hard to find.
My dad has a 2003 craftsman with a 48” deck, probably a similar transmission (both MTD I believe) and it has over 1100 hours. He hasn't changed the fluid because his manual told him it was sealed. He did have to weld the deck as he does some very rough work with it.
 

Shipperdave

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I have a 2015 Simplicity Broadmoor tractor...it has about 300 hours and the transmission (tuff torque K57) started to have issues last fall. The tractor was slow in reverse, then no reverse. I have pulled the axle and changed the fluid even though it is supposed to be non-servicable. I since then replaced the fluid again with 5W-50 synthetic has I did not have the correct weight of fluid initially. When I changed it the second time, I was able to get the transmission totally turned over to completely drain. The are three metal flakes about 1/8" in diameter in the fluid and shavings...no gear teeth. Should I pull the bottom plate off to inspect, have it rebuilt, or look for replacement? Should not fail in this short period of time...I had a John Deere with K46 transmission that lasted for 20 years!
 

mechanic mark

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Three hundred hours is just broken in. Remove deck & inspect drive belt & idler pulleys for wear. Use B&S OEM Parts. Let us know how it goes, thanks Mark
 
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