Troy built TB110 with Briggs engine surging and running rough

[slomo]

Not a Troy-Built guy but that stamping is unusual, for me anyway. As Bert said there should be more Briggs numbers after the 9P--F1 blah blah.....

 

[CrusinSusan]

I did clean the fins and the top of the block. Took the gas tank off as well just to double check behind it for anything stuck. I looked everywhere for more numbers didn’t find anymore. The only one is the one in pic 9P702-0144-F1 with a DOM of 03-22-14. Here’s the mowers decal if that helps. Ty very much.

 

[slomo]

Those are your mower numbers. You have mower and engine numbers. I would call Briggs and ask about valve specs. You have some numbers to go by. Or maybe one of the other guys will chime in soon.

You still have a sticking "near" closed choke plate. Your video shows it clear as mud. Many videos on youtube about this and how to fix it.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Not a Troy-Built guy but that stamping is unusual, for me anyway. As Bert said there should be more Briggs numbers after the 9P--F1 blah blah.....

Actually no Slowie , the photo tells the whole story
Engines made in the PRC have their numbers electro etched into the crank case, usually behind the carb or at the very back of the crankcase depending upon which of the 2 B & S factories in China made the engines .
The "serial number " would be 140322PRC if it had one 2014 year , March month , 22nd day , PRC factory code
And the reason why Crusin can not find any reference to their engine on USA web sites is because it has come from the B & S factory in China so there is no USA service info
However all B & S engines are designed to run virtually the same valve lash so .004" for each will be fine
There is nothing magic about the valve lash.
It just has to be small enough so as not to counter the decompressor and large enough so that when hot there is still some gap so the valves can close fully .
Remember they are very very very basic engine not a F1 race car in fact at full speed they run slower than a lot of race engines idle .
Thus valve timing is not all that critical most mower engines will run ( poorly ) with the cam one tooth out in either direction no car engine I know of will even start one tooth out .

As for engine parts used on Chinese engines Crusin will have to go through MTD not B &S
Down here we get the Chinese parts assembled in the USA engines, the Chinese assembled Imperial engines that usually go to the USA & the Chinese assembled EU metric engines of which the latter are head & shoulders better than all others .

Now which butterfly was flapping like a dunny door in the wind
The one closest to the air filter which is the choke or the one at the back which is the throttle .
I for one have had a lot of problems with chokes flapping randomly , cured by tossing the auto choke where it belongs, down the afore mentioned Dunny and fitting a choke cable
Recently I have been fitting a much stronger return spring to the carb and disconnecting the air vane where fitted .

 

[slomo]

Actually no Slowie , the photo tells the whole story
Engines made in the PRC have their numbers electro etched into the crank case, usually behind the carb or at the very back of the crankcase depending upon which of the 2 B & S factories in China made the engines .
The "serial number " would be 140322PRC if it had one 2014 year , March month , 22nd day , PRC factory code
And the reason why Crusin can not find any reference to their engine on USA web sites is because it has come from the B & S factory in China so there is no USA service info
However all B & S engines are designed to run virtually the same valve lash so .004" for each will be fine
There is nothing magic about the valve lash.
It just has to be small enough so as not to counter the decompressor and large enough so that when hot there is still some gap so the valves can close fully .
Remember they are very very very basic engine not a F1 race car in fact at full speed they run slower than a lot of race engines idle .
Thus valve timing is not all that critical most mower engines will run ( poorly ) with the cam one tooth out in either direction no car engine I know of will even start one tooth out .

As for engine parts used on Chinese engines Crusin will have to go through MTD not B &S
Down here we get the Chinese parts assembled in the USA engines, the Chinese assembled Imperial engines that usually go to the USA & the Chinese assembled EU metric engines of which the latter are head & shoulders better than all others .

Now which butterfly was flapping like a dunny door in the wind
The one closest to the air filter which is the choke or the one at the back which is the throttle .
I for one have had a lot of problems with chokes flapping randomly , cured by tossing the auto choke where it belongs, down the afore mentioned Dunny and fitting a choke cable
Recently I have been fitting a much stronger return spring to the carb and disconnecting the air vane where fitted .

Post 11, her video at 0:28 into it shows the brass choke plate nearly closed while running. Told her to look at the choke. Nothing back on it......

 

[bertsmobile1]

I think is is one she lifted off Face Ache and not her mower

 

[slomo]

I think is is one she lifted off Face Ache and not her mower

??? Could be.

 

[CrusinSusan]

Had to go back and reference so the video with it stuck I brought it back in and took the shroud and carb off again. Was looking at what could be stuck and that’s when I noticed I didn’t have the breather tube (I think that’s what it’s called) connected to the back of the air filter port. I connected that out everything back together and the second video on post 11 was after I connected it back. From that point the butterfly was going crazy again. Could connecting the air tube cause that? Or maybe I could of unstuck something after taking it off/reinstalling. Either way the butterfly closest to the air filter is the one I seen going crazy, I’ll look again to make sure it’s the only one. Ty both.

??? Could be.

 

[bertsmobile1]

That is the choke and it flutters because the spring designed to hold it fully open is not up to the job
AFAIK the spring is not available as a stand alone item
When you look directly down on the carb from the top there should be a spring on the right side that holds the choke fully open
If yours is still there , cut the end off, count 2 turns of wire up the spring & bend them over to reconnect the spring

 

[slomo]

Had to go back and reference so the video with it stuck I brought it back in and took the shroud and carb off again. Was looking at what could be stuck and that’s when I noticed I didn’t have the breather tube (I think that’s what it’s called) connected to the back of the air filter port. I connected that out everything back together and the second video on post 11 was after I connected it back. From that point the butterfly was going crazy again. Could connecting the air tube cause that? Or maybe I could of unstuck something after taking it off/reinstalling. Either way the butterfly closest to the air filter is the one I seen going crazy, I’ll look again to make sure it’s the only one. Ty both.

THAT is the choke plate as you say going crazy. Your choke plate is sticking nearly fully closed. You want it fully open after the engine starts up. Again tons of videos on youtube on this.