Troy-Bilt 14AA80TP766 Big Red Horse (2007) with a Briggs Intek VTwin 23HP---Problem

[srwa]

Speaking of "quality" of parts......say auto...the individual(DIY) will buy on the cheap; IE: EBAY-AMAZON etc.

Most are Chinese made. "Some" are of good quality. Exception...auto sensors. Have tried, never again.

Now O'RIELLY'S or Autozone sells,for the most part, good quality parts with a lifetime warranty. But, U really pay for the part.

Several years ago I was a " Part time delivery Specialist" for O'REILLY'S. The mark up on parts is, in my opinion, obcene. Just check their stock price.

As an employee I could get anywhere from 40% to 90% discount on parts.

 

[shadetree#1]

Here is some info about working on them dual throat Nikki's that you might reference if your ebay dual throat carb stuff don't pan out.
If not already done install a Briggs red fuel filter and a fuel petcock.
Just another hint:
I taken parts out of new clone Nikki carb's that did not operate correctly and installed the clone parts into OEM Nikki's and got good performance.
You have to keep a heads up because one size does not fit all when trying to take two or 3 Nikki carbs and make one.





Small engines repairs links

Carbs, etc

https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/



12/2022

Nikki dual throat carb repair/rebuilding links

Nikki dual throat carb tips and re-building LINK.

Guy asks about jets sizing and re-building a dual throat Nikki carb

Nikki Dual Carb Main Jets

Briggs V-Twin Model 44M777 0148 B1. SN 081212YG On a John Deere Lawn Tractor Engine has a Nikki dual carb. When I removed the bowl, both main jets fell out. They look identical, but it turns out there is a Left and Right main jet and they are different. There are no makings on the jets...

www.lawnmowerforum.com

You tube video part 1: (newer style aluminum float bowl Nikki) USE KIT 54832 @ $7

part 2 (older model with steel float bowl) USE KIT 54833 or 54834 @ $9 each depending on the style of Nikki. See part 2 of the video to determine which kit needed.

 

[srwa]

Appreciate the links and post. When I took the carb. apart one of the emulsion tube screws would not come out. Also, when taken the jets out better remember which hole it goes back in, they look identical, also, the tiny O' ring seal usually comes out "stringee".

I decided that instead drilling that screw out with my Dremel I would buy a complete carb.

Not to say I couldn't rebuild the carb., just didn't want to.

Back in the 50's & 60's & 70's used to rebuild 4 barrell auto carbs for my 56 chevy, 57 Pontiac, and my 70 Pontiac Catlina with a 400 cu. in. engine and a PVC valve, the only emissions control............almost could put them back together "blindfolded"

 

[kjonxx]

keep in mind that briggs issued a memo on carb solenoids being bad so i always put shut off valves in fuel line to avoid filling eng with fuel.

 

[LMPPLUS]

Inherited" a Troy-Bilt 14AA80TP766 Bie (2007)g Red Hors with a Briggs Intek VTwin 23HP engine. Ran when I got it but not good. Pulled plugs & checked compression; 120 on # 1 cyl. 0 on # 2 cyl. Pulled engine and tore down. Head on exhaust valve #2 cyl. "warped...about 3/32 in. gap when seated. Replaced valve; 120 #s on #1 cyl. and 165#s on #2 cyl., which I thought was a "little high". Checked several more times....same results.

Also, with the engine was apart replaced complete governor control, everything else looked good enough not to replace. Re gask engine and put back together. Did not take the carb. apart.

With the plugs out cranked the engine, noticed a mist of fuel coming out of #2 cyl. Removed head, small amount of fuel in cyl. dried out, reinstalled head. Cranked engine, no mist. Cranked engine several more times, everything looked good. Reinstalled plugs and cranked engine. Tried to start couple times but didn't so left it overnight. Next morning noticed something leaking under engine. Thought it was oil, pulled dipstick....way over full. Wasn't oil, it was fuel. Checked fuel tank which was about 1/2 full....now empty. Oil sump on engine full of fuel.

Have not had this kind of problem before.

 

[LMPPLUS]

If you have a Nikki carb on it you may have a main jet loose or leaking fuel around the oring.

 

[bertsmobile1]

keep in mind that briggs issued a memo on carb solenoids being bad so i always put shut off valves in fuel line to avoid filling eng with fuel.

NO NO NO NO NO NO
The solenoid just shoves a bung up the end of the main jet preventing fuel flowing into the carb throat so that while the engine is still rotating but there is no spark after turning the engine off, the engine does not push out unburned fuel.
The solenoid does not stop fuel entering the float bowl.
This is some bull shit a brain dead moron posted on face book that got picked up by equally brain dead morons who make you tube videos and now had become an urban myth.
Pull the bloody carb off rip the frigging float out then connect a fuel line and watch the fuel piss out the overflow, solenoid or no bloody solenoid on or frigging off .

Yes a shut off tap is a good idea in case THE FLOAT VLAVE FAILS absolutely nothing to do with the carb solenoid .

 

[srwa]

Just an aside; If ever you need a cheap 12v power supply for testing take a look at this; There is no power(amps) just voltage IE: can't start anything with it.

A cheap 12v power supply for testing

www.traverseforum.com

 

[bertsmobile1]

Just an aside; If ever you need a cheap 12v power supply for testing take a look at this; There is no power(amps) just voltage IE: can't start anything with it.

A cheap 12v power supply for testing

www.traverseforum.com

probably no better than the 500 videos of how to convert an old desk top / tower computer power supply to make a workshop 12 V continious power supply, battery charger and a pile of other cleaver things .
Every day I probably pass a 1/2 dozen sitting on the side of the road .

 

[shadetree#1]

Appreciate the links and post. When I took the carb. apart one of the emulsion tube screws would not come out. Also, when taken the jets out better remember which hole it goes back in, they look identical, also, the tiny O' ring seal usually comes out "stringee".

I decided that instead drilling that screw out with my Dremel I would buy a complete carb.

Not to say I couldn't rebuild the carb., just didn't want to.

Back in the 50's & 60's & 70's used to rebuild 4 barrell auto carbs for my 56 chevy, 57 Pontiac, and my 70 Pontiac Catlina with a 400 cu. in. engine and a PVC valve, the only emissions control............almost could put them back together "blindfolded"

Yes. I've found them Nikki's to have a slight learning curve.
I've got to where i do not dread them quite as much.
Just a little measley, wimpy, weak looking little o ring or a seized screw will upset the apple cart.
AND keep your fingers crossed when subbing the cheaper Nikki clones.
I seem to have about a 80% success rate with the Nikki clones. It's the 20% failure rate that eats up time and increases the pain.