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Troy-Bilt 14AA80TP766 Big Red Horse (2007) with a Briggs Intek VTwin 23HP---Problem

#1

S

srwa

Inherited" a Troy-Bilt 14AA80TP766 Bie (2007)g Red Hors with a Briggs Intek VTwin 23HP engine. Ran when I got it but not good. Pulled plugs & checked compression; 120 on # 1 cyl. 0 on # 2 cyl. Pulled engine and tore down. Head on exhaust valve #2 cyl. "warped...about 3/32 in. gap when seated. Replaced valve; 120 #s on #1 cyl. and 165#s on #2 cyl., which I thought was a "little high". Checked several more times....same results.

Also, with the engine was apart replaced complete governor control, everything else looked good enough not to replace. Re gask engine and put back together. Did not take the carb. apart.

With the plugs out cranked the engine, noticed a mist of fuel coming out of #2 cyl. Removed head, small amount of fuel in cyl. dried out, reinstalled head. Cranked engine, no mist. Cranked engine several more times, everything looked good. Reinstalled plugs and cranked engine. Tried to start couple times but didn't so left it overnight. Next morning noticed something leaking under engine. Thought it was oil, pulled dipstick....way over full. Wasn't oil, it was fuel. Checked fuel tank which was about 1/2 full....now empty. Oil sump on engine full of fuel.

Have not had this kind of problem before.


#2

B

bertsmobile1

Float valve in carb has failed, probably just dirty & needs a clean
Float bowl overflow is now INTERNAL so the first time you notice the carb is leaking the oil is ruined and needs to be replaced at least twice plus of course, often the entire tank has drained into the sump
Supposed to reduce pollution not really sure how that works .


#3

S

srwa

Appreciate the post. Will take carb. apart.

First time with a throttle to gov. controlled engine(which I have a real problem with in my head) also with a "2 barrell",so to speak, carb.


#4

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

srwa said:
Appreciate the post. Will take carb. apart.

First time with a throttle to gov. controlled engine(which I have a real problem with in my head) also with a "2 barrell",so to speak, carb.
Click to expand...
Probably a Nikki two barrel carburetor. Nikki carburetors are known to leak at needle and seat. The mist coming out of spark plug hole is fuel (engine hydro locked). Follow what Bertsmobile said. I hate Nikki carbs.


#5

B

bertsmobile1

Throttle sets the maximum allowable engine speed regardless of the amount the engine butterfly is open.
Governor makes sure it happes
So it is basically a tug_O_war between the throttle & the governor with the spring as the rope .


#6

S

srwa

The "book' says the static governor setting must be preformed whenever the carb. is worked on or taken off engine ,or all H@#^ could break loose IE; come apart. Saw enough U TUBE to convince me.


#7

S

srwa

No number on carb. except---A E Power. Cannot find anything remotely connected with Briggs's carbs.

So, going to buy new carb. complete with spacers, plugs, manifold to carb. gaskets, and fuel filter, ...$17+ tax. off Ebay with free shipping. Much better than rebuilding........in my extremely humble opinion.

Also, tried many times to attach pictures......... kept saying file to large for server. Would take a phone picture and it would be 3.3,sometimes+ MB.


#8

M

mechanic mark

Troy-Bilt Garden Tractor - Model 14AA80TP766 | Troy-Bilt US

Find parts and product manuals for your Big Red Horse Troy-Bilt Garden Tractor . Free shipping on parts orders over $45.
www.troybilt.com www.troybilt.com

Troy-Bilt Garden Tractor - Model 14AA80TP766 | Troy-Bilt US

Find parts and product manuals for your Big Red Horse Troy-Bilt Garden Tractor . Free shipping on parts orders over $45.
www.troybilt.com www.troybilt.com
Click above then B&S Operators Manual page 7 bottom right, "Electronic Fuel Management System", page 8 no carburetor adjustment.
Post Model xxxxxx, Type xxxx, Trim xx, Code xxxxxxxx from engine sticker, plate, or stamped into engine. Let us know how it goes, thanks Mark
Use Multimeter Tool to test your System above


#9

StarTech

StarTech

People tends to hate things they don't understand. Nikki carburetors are not that bad; just misunderstood.


#10

B

bertsmobile1

I find them great
I buy the drop in kits in bulk from the factory in China for a couple of $ each then it is a 15 minute job and most of that time is the 10 minutes in the ultrasound .
Nothing on a mower engine is as good as it could be except for Honda engines which makes them cost more so no one uses them because the buyers are too cheap to pay for quality.
So being just barely good enough to do the job creates problems over time thus parts get a bad reputation when in reality the problem is in the purchasers wallet .


#11

smalltimerpm

smalltimerpm

Something to know Stanley just bought out a good bit of lawn world at the end of last year. Including cub cadet...troy bilt and a few others. Parts are getting harder to get and harder to find that are actually oe. Most are starting to repair with what you get or what you find. Be careful though. You get what you pay for!! And that also goes for big brand name products...you don't know what or who is piecing these components together anymore


#12

StarTech

StarTech

bertsmobile1 said:
I find them great
I buy the drop in kits in bulk from the factory in China for a couple of $ each then it is a 15 minute job and most of that time is the 10 minutes in the ultrasound .
Nothing on a mower engine is as good as it could be except for Honda engines which makes them cost more so no one uses them because the buyers are too cheap to pay for quality.
So being just barely good enough to do the job creates problems over time thus parts get a bad reputation when in reality the problem is in the purchasers wallet .
Click to expand...
So true...Being cheap is why we have so much junk to work on.
smalltimerpm said:
Something to know Stanley just bought out a good bit of lawn world at the end of last year. Including cub cadet...troy bilt and a few others. Parts are getting harder to get and harder to find that are actually oe. Most are starting to repair with what you get or what you find. Be careful though. You get what you pay for!! And that also goes for big brand name products...you don't know what or who is piecing these components together anymore
Click to expand...
To problem is that no company supports their equipment anymore. I see this all across the board lately. It is why I am having to buy after market parts now as they no longer provide the needed parts. Over half the time I am having to modify even the after market parts to make them work.

It is the old trick of limiting the life of equipment so they can sell more junky equipment. Matter of fact I had two pieces of equipment that was less than 6 months old that the parts are listed as NLA. Not even out of warranty.


#13

B

bertsmobile1

The one that kills me is the current Victa ride ons
B & S imports them from China and they are putrid plastic puss piles .
In order to save on one deck idler the engine drives directly to the LH blade spindle .
However this means it would foul on the front deck hanger so they eliminated it.
The excess weight & vibrations cause the rear left hanger to fatigue .
Now this is a current model.
I can go into Bunnings & buy one tomorrow, but the deck hangers are NLA
Apparently they will replace them under warranty if the mower is less than 12 months old .

I am about to weld up the third one and strengthen the single rear hanger with an old mower blade


#14

StarTech

StarTech

That like they way some mower OEM welds only one side of hangers and gauge wheel brackets when they should welded on both side. So many times I have re enforced these over the years because of the short cuts if I am lucky enough to have all the parts brought in for the repairs.

Apparently they want the consumer to new new complete decks instead. More money for them.


#15

Tiger Small Engine

Tiger Small Engine

StarTech said:
That like they way some mower OEM welds only one side of hangers and gauge wheel brackets when they should welded on both side. So many times I have re enforced these over the years because of the short cuts if I am lucky enough to have all the parts brought in for the repairs.

Apparently they want the consumer to new new complete decks instead. More money for them.
Click to expand...
Planned obsolescence on newer equipment has been a trend for a decade now, give or take.

I understand Nikki carburetors, I see a lot of them in my shop. I also see more problems with them than many other types such as Walbro. I am here to both learn and help. I try to do both everyday. I appreciate each and every one of you that take the time to contribute to this forum.


#16

StarTech

StarTech

Oh I work for one those companies that started the trend. three year after they started they were out of business.

As the Nikki carbs you probably just see more of them as there are more in use. Beside if you in the repair business you need the work too as if nothing broke we would have nothing to do; although, being on a diet helps.

I just got with a CC that a fire which cooked part of the wiring harness and the plastic Walbro links on the Kohler engine. Got lucky on the Walbro as I had a corroded one from last year to pull the choke assy off of. If it was for me saving the carburetor for the screws I would had to buy a new carburetor for the customer.


#17

S

srwa

bertsmobile1 said:
The one that kills me is the current Victa ride ons
B & S imports them from China and they are putrid plastic puss piles .
In order to save on one deck idler the engine drives directly to the LH blade spindle .
However this means it would foul on the front deck hanger so they eliminated it.
The excess weight & vibrations cause the rear left hanger to fatigue .
Now this is a current model.
I can go into Bunnings & buy one tomorrow, but the deck hangers are NLA
Apparently they will replace them under warranty if the mower is less than 12 months old .

I am about to weld up the third one and strengthen the single rear hanger with an old mower blade
Click to expand...

Scuze my ignertz, but what is NLA?


#18

StarTech

StarTech

srwa said:
Scuze my ignertz, but what is NLA?
Click to expand...
(N)o (L)onger (A)vailable.


#19

S

srwa

NLA-- I see that quite often, it's always spelled out, on stuff I have, course it's all old, but some isn't that old.


#20

B

bertsmobile1

srwa said:
NLA-- I see that quite often, it's always spelled out, on stuff I have, course it's all old, but some isn't that old.
Click to expand...
When you try to order parts from suppliers they just use the letters NLA because it saves space same as BO or B-O for on back order


#21

S

srwa

Speaking of "quality" of parts......say auto...the individual(DIY) will buy on the cheap; IE: EBAY-AMAZON etc.

Most are Chinese made. "Some" are of good quality. Exception...auto sensors. Have tried, never again.

Now O'RIELLY'S or Autozone sells,for the most part, good quality parts with a lifetime warranty. But, U really pay for the part.

Several years ago I was a " Part time delivery Specialist" for O'REILLY'S. The mark up on parts is, in my opinion, obcene. Just check their stock price.

As an employee I could get anywhere from 40% to 90% discount on parts.


#22

shadetree#1

shadetree#1

Here is some info about working on them dual throat Nikki's that you might reference if your ebay dual throat carb stuff don't pan out.
If not already done install a Briggs red fuel filter and a fuel petcock.
Just another hint:
I taken parts out of new clone Nikki carb's that did not operate correctly and installed the clone parts into OEM Nikki's and got good performance.
You have to keep a heads up because one size does not fit all when trying to take two or 3 Nikki carbs and make one.





Small engines repairs links

Carbs, etc

https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/



12/2022

Nikki dual throat carb repair/rebuilding links

Nikki dual throat carb tips and re-building LINK.

Guy asks about jets sizing and re-building a dual throat Nikki carb

www.lawnmowerforum.com

Nikki Dual Carb Main Jets

Briggs V-Twin Model 44M777 0148 B1. SN 081212YG On a John Deere Lawn Tractor Engine has a Nikki dual carb. When I removed the bowl, both main jets fell out. They look identical, but it turns out there is a Left and Right main jet and they are different. There are no makings on the jets...
www.lawnmowerforum.com www.lawnmowerforum.com



You tube video part 1: (newer style aluminum float bowl Nikki) USE KIT 54832 @ $7




part 2 (older model with steel float bowl) USE KIT 54833 or 54834 @ $9 each depending on the style of Nikki. See part 2 of the video to determine which kit needed.



#23

S

srwa

Appreciate the links and post. When I took the carb. apart one of the emulsion tube screws would not come out. Also, when taken the jets out better remember which hole it goes back in, they look identical, also, the tiny O' ring seal usually comes out "stringee".

I decided that instead drilling that screw out with my Dremel I would buy a complete carb.

Not to say I couldn't rebuild the carb., just didn't want to.

Back in the 50's & 60's & 70's used to rebuild 4 barrell auto carbs for my 56 chevy, 57 Pontiac, and my 70 Pontiac Catlina with a 400 cu. in. engine and a PVC valve, the only emissions control............almost could put them back together "blindfolded"


#24

K

kjonxx

keep in mind that briggs issued a memo on carb solenoids being bad so i always put shut off valves in fuel line to avoid filling eng with fuel.


#25

L

LMPPLUS

srwa said:
Inherited" a Troy-Bilt 14AA80TP766 Bie (2007)g Red Hors with a Briggs Intek VTwin 23HP engine. Ran when I got it but not good. Pulled plugs & checked compression; 120 on # 1 cyl. 0 on # 2 cyl. Pulled engine and tore down. Head on exhaust valve #2 cyl. "warped...about 3/32 in. gap when seated. Replaced valve; 120 #s on #1 cyl. and 165#s on #2 cyl., which I thought was a "little high". Checked several more times....same results.

Also, with the engine was apart replaced complete governor control, everything else looked good enough not to replace. Re gask engine and put back together. Did not take the carb. apart.

With the plugs out cranked the engine, noticed a mist of fuel coming out of #2 cyl. Removed head, small amount of fuel in cyl. dried out, reinstalled head. Cranked engine, no mist. Cranked engine several more times, everything looked good. Reinstalled plugs and cranked engine. Tried to start couple times but didn't so left it overnight. Next morning noticed something leaking under engine. Thought it was oil, pulled dipstick....way over full. Wasn't oil, it was fuel. Checked fuel tank which was about 1/2 full....now empty. Oil sump on engine full of fuel.

Have not had this kind of problem before.
Click to expand...


#26

L

LMPPLUS

If you have a Nikki carb on it you may have a main jet loose or leaking fuel around the oring.


#27

B

bertsmobile1

kjonxx said:
keep in mind that briggs issued a memo on carb solenoids being bad so i always put shut off valves in fuel line to avoid filling eng with fuel.
Click to expand...
NO NO NO NO NO NO
The solenoid just shoves a bung up the end of the main jet preventing fuel flowing into the carb throat so that while the engine is still rotating but there is no spark after turning the engine off, the engine does not push out unburned fuel.
The solenoid does not stop fuel entering the float bowl.
This is some bull shit a brain dead moron posted on face book that got picked up by equally brain dead morons who make you tube videos and now had become an urban myth.
Pull the bloody carb off rip the frigging float out then connect a fuel line and watch the fuel piss out the overflow, solenoid or no bloody solenoid on or frigging off .

Yes a shut off tap is a good idea in case THE FLOAT VLAVE FAILS absolutely nothing to do with the carb solenoid .


#28

S

srwa

Just an aside; If ever you need a cheap 12v power supply for testing take a look at this; There is no power(amps) just voltage IE: can't start anything with it.


www.traverseforum.com

A cheap 12v power supply for testing

www.traverseforum.com www.traverseforum.com


#29

B

bertsmobile1

srwa said:
Just an aside; If ever you need a cheap 12v power supply for testing take a look at this; There is no power(amps) just voltage IE: can't start anything with it.


www.traverseforum.com

A cheap 12v power supply for testing

www.traverseforum.com www.traverseforum.com
Click to expand...
probably no better than the 500 videos of how to convert an old desk top / tower computer power supply to make a workshop 12 V continious power supply, battery charger and a pile of other cleaver things .
Every day I probably pass a 1/2 dozen sitting on the side of the road .


#30

shadetree#1

shadetree#1

srwa said:
Appreciate the links and post. When I took the carb. apart one of the emulsion tube screws would not come out. Also, when taken the jets out better remember which hole it goes back in, they look identical, also, the tiny O' ring seal usually comes out "stringee".

I decided that instead drilling that screw out with my Dremel I would buy a complete carb.

Not to say I couldn't rebuild the carb., just didn't want to.

Back in the 50's & 60's & 70's used to rebuild 4 barrell auto carbs for my 56 chevy, 57 Pontiac, and my 70 Pontiac Catlina with a 400 cu. in. engine and a PVC valve, the only emissions control............almost could put them back together "blindfolded"
Click to expand...
Yes. I've found them Nikki's to have a slight learning curve.
I've got to where i do not dread them quite as much.
Just a little measley, wimpy, weak looking little o ring or a seized screw will upset the apple cart.
AND keep your fingers crossed when subbing the cheaper Nikki clones.
I seem to have about a 80% success rate with the Nikki clones. It's the 20% failure rate that eats up time and increases the pain.


#31

StarTech

StarTech

kjonxx said:
keep in mind that briggs issued a memo on carb solenoids being bad so i always put shut off valves in fuel line to avoid filling eng with fuel.
Click to expand...
If one exists than I need the # as I have yet to one since being a dealer since 2009.

As Bert posted in post 27 they have nothing with the engine filling in fuel.


#32

S

srwa

bertsmobile1 said:
probably better than500 videos of how to convert an old desk top / tower computer power supply to make a workshop 12 V continious power supply, battery charger and a pile of other cleaver things .
Every day I probably pass a 1/2 dozen sitting on the side of the road .
Click to expand...


Forgot to add to put all that stuff in an insulated metal box to make it look purdy.

Also,found it handy to bench test relays, small motors, etc.and especially test an auto compresser clutch with the relay pulled.


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