Toro TimeCutter SS4235 dies when handles are pulled in

[bertsmobile1]

bertsmobile1, Sorry I'm such a dummy. I finally realized what you meant and found the right pages = Section 7, page 8 (page 118 of the PDF file) of the "2011-2013 TimeCutter SS/MX/ZX Service Manual"

Thank you for pointing out my error. I just watched the "YouTube.com/watch?v=JgZRN-Jn4JE" and "YouTube.com/watch?v=buBEukVT-so" videos about Troubleshooting the Brake Control and Service Bulletin #31 about the issue I'm having. It sure sounds like that's what I need to concentrate on and eliminate that as a cause.

The brake control box levers not hitting their stops by completing their full travel every time could be the cause of my problem. That would be the reason repeated moving the levers in and out finally allows the mower to cut my whole yard - as long as I don't stop!
As soon as I can get out in the yard (rain changing to snow predicted here this evening) to have a look I'll get back say yes or no.

Anyone have access to Service Bulletin #31?
I wish I could transcribe the first video and pictures to go along with it as they point out the purpose of each wire going to the control module.

If Rivets dose not answer you , you could send him a PM.
Not sure if he answers them ( I don't ) but he works for an authorised Toro agent.
I am just a hack so can't access any of that stuff.
And don't feel bad.
I do repairs all day every day and had to watch the first one 3 times before I took it all in and that was with the circuit diagram printed out A3 size right on my desk.

The problem comes from all of the shaved monkeys , video cameras in hand with an ego the size of Manhattan and an interlect the size of their boot who continually post videos on how to defeat safety devices..
As they are manditory, naturally they will get more complicated and thus more expensive and become non servicable so they can not easily be bypassed.
The old system used a 1/2 dozen switches total cost about $ 20
That module is a touch more expensive.

 

[Moonwink]

I got it out yesterday and raised it up to check the movement of the brake rods. The new control seemed to have full movement from stop to stop but I oiled the rods up anyway. The rods didn't appear to be hanging up at all.

I forgot I had to jumper the seat switch to check the switches on the drive handles. I took out the seat switch and held it compressed and all seemed to work correctly. So I'm not sure where my problem was. Remember it was intermittent - if I fooled around pulling and pushing the handles back and forth eventually I could cut my whole yard.

The seat cushion is completely detached from the metal backing. I keep it in place with a bungee. It could have shifted off the seat switch enough to cause the problem. At least now after watching the YouTube video about TSB #31, I now understand which switches and linkage to look at should I have problems again.

Thank you VERY MUCH bertsmobile1 for sticking with me until my old brain was able to comprehend the cause of the problem. I'm in good shape now.

 

[bertsmobile1]

And thank you for the follow up.
Seat switches activating because they are too sensititive on some ZTR's is not all that uncommon.
Keep in touch

 

[wnd1@numail.org]

Problem is the brake control module. Ebay purchase $82.00 to fix. Located under the frame. Jack the mower to access the module. Lift the seat and take 4 screws out and underneath drop the brake arms. Replace and the problem goes away. Just about drove me nuts before I came upon this control box. 30 minute fix.

 

[Point37]

brake control module info...

http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showt...orward-or-back?p=289703&viewfull=1#post289703

 

[100 td]

My MX5060 started playing up a couple of days ago, 150 hours on it, I pulled the brake actuator assembly and undid the bottom of it, sprayed some silicone spray on the bushes and gear shafts and motor(tiny motor same as in a car door lock), re-assembled and installed and is working again. How long for, who knows?