Toro MX5060 Lubrication

fwiw: The oils designed for auto use have to have a much lower Zinc content, to protect the catalytic converters on autos.
Zinc is very effective friction reducer..

There are oils designed for pre cat- converter autos that have much higher Zinc content..

PS: I have the Pre-Filter on my 4260 & it really helps..

7394,
That's interesting. What oil brands would you recommend that have the higher Zinc content.
Thanks,
Bruce
 
Oils have greatly improved over time.. In my Bikes & last mower I used Valvoline VR1 Valvoline.com > FAQs > Motor Oil Car FAQs > Racing Oil

Now with my new Toro w/ Kawi engine, I will use the recommended "Kawi-oil" till out of warranty, it also has higher levels of Zinc..

Most auto parts stores have various brands listed as Racing Oil & not for Street use.. These should also have higher levels of Zinc (ZDDP)
 
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Being really fanatical, I also changed the oil and filters for the hydro drives. I've been told that this was a total waste, but at least it made me feel better.....:laughing:.

Bruce

Does the MX5060 have commercial hydros vs the SS5060? I'm the guy that just got the SS5060. I'm pretty sure that mine are supposed to be no-maintenance. Maybe you have the ZT-2800 hydros.
 
Oils have greatly improved over time.. In my Bikes & last mower I used Valvoline VR1 Valvoline.com > FAQs > Motor Oil Car FAQs > Racing Oil

Now with my new Toro w/ Kawi engine, I will use the recommended "Kawi-oil" till out of warranty, it also has higher levels of Zinc..

Most auto parts stores have various brands listed as Racing Oil & not for Street use.. These should also have higher levels of Zinc (ZDDP)

Thanks for the info. I'll check that out at the auto parts store. That's a good idea about using the Kawi oil. I don't know how expensive it is, but for the amount I would use its not a big deal
Bruce
 
Does the MX5060 have commercial hydros vs the SS5060? I'm the guy that just got the SS5060. I'm pretty sure that mine are supposed to be no-maintenance. Maybe you have the ZT-2800 hydros.

The MX5060 does have the "serviceable" ZT2800 hydros. I don't believe they would be considered commercial. I would call them high-end residential....:smile:
Bruce
 
:thumbsup: Bruce- yes the info I studied show only the MX5060 has the ZT2800 hydros (due to the fab. deck extra weigh) & an oil filter on each hydro.

PS: The Kawi oil is a straight 30wt dino-oil, & cost me $5.99 per qt. at my local dealer... About what something decent from auto parts would cost as well.

It is listed for commecial use Kawi engines & recommended for Res. Kawis too..
 
:thumbsup: Bruce- yes the info I studied show only the MX5060 has the ZT2800 hydros (due to the fab. deck extra weigh) & an oil filter on each hydro.

PS: The Kawi oil is a straight 30wt dino-oil, & cost me $5.99 per qt. at my local dealer... About what something decent from auto parts would cost as well.

It is listed for commecial use Kawi engines & recommended for Res. Kawis too..

7394,
Thanks for the Kawi oil info. At $5.99 per quart, its not outrageously priced. I think I'll go with it for the next change.

Those oil filters on the hydro units were a bear to change. i had an oil filter socket and got one off easily. On the other side, I ended up having to pierce it with a screwdriver to get it off. You can imagine how much I was rethinking my decision to change out the oil & filters before the recommended interval....:laughing:!
Bruce
 
Bruce- That sounds like that one hydro filter didn't want changed...Yeoww !! I bet you were rethinking your plan.. But you got her done.. :thumbsup: Should be easier next time..

I have had to pierce a filter or two on trucks of mine, but they were old...


PS: When I did my 8 hour 'break-in' oil & filter change, the drain screw/hex was only finger tight.. That was an eye-opener.. :eek:
 
Bruce- That sounds like that one hydro filter didn't want changed...Yeoww !! I bet you were rethinking your plan.. But you got her done.. :thumbsup: Should be easier next time..

I have had to pierce a filter or two on trucks of mine, but they were old...


PS: When I did my 8 hour 'break-in' oil & filter change, the drain screw/hex was only finger tight.. That was an eye-opener.. :eek:

7394,
I've only had to pry a feww off in my day. It was usually after bringing it somewhere to have it changed. That's why I always do all the maintenance myself. Then I have no one else to blame, except the "nut" with the wrench?.

When I changed the oil for the first time, my drain screw wasn't loose, but it was too messy for my liking. I guess that's the price we have to pay.
Bruce
 
7394,
I've only had to pry a few off in my day. It was usually after bringing it somewhere to have it changed. That's why I always do all the maintenance myself. Then I have no one else to blame, except the "nut" with the wrench.

When I changed the oil for the first time, my drain screw wasn't loose, but it was too messy for my liking. I guess that's the price we have to pay.
Bruce

Bruce- Yes, I prefer doing my own wrenching as well (other than any covered warranty work) & agree about only me to blame if I screw it up..:laughing:

Good that your drain screw was tight, mine certainly is now... I also cut down a plastic small round can, I made it to fit under the oil filter ledge.. The smaller lid I used was not quite adequate on capacity (eyes roll).. Good thing I put down heavy layer of plastic covering the deck area there ..

And for the drain, I notched the smaller lid (mentioned above) & it will now easily fit under the drain, so I should be better prepared for next oil change..:biggrin:

And about my drain screw, I dug around & found a rubber plug that fits perfectly over the drain housing, I cut down the depth so it bottoms on the drain screw head..

Now I don't have to obsess about that drain coming loose while mowing..

Buddy
 
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