You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Toro model 70040, brigs and Stratton.
- Thread starter guins66
- Start date
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
:welcome:
Bet you bought them all on line to save money because if you went to a mower shop they would have told you that none of those parts are in the ignition circuit apart from the ignition switch.
The only parts in the ignition circuit is the magneto, the ignition switch and the PTO safety switch and the brake switch.
Remove the blower housing and remove the small wire from the coil
If the mower starts then you have a bad safety switch.
If it does not start then the magneto module is bad.
Bet you bought them all on line to save money because if you went to a mower shop they would have told you that none of those parts are in the ignition circuit apart from the ignition switch.
The only parts in the ignition circuit is the magneto, the ignition switch and the PTO safety switch and the brake switch.
Remove the blower housing and remove the small wire from the coil
If the mower starts then you have a bad safety switch.
If it does not start then the magneto module is bad.
:welcome:
Bet you bought them all on line to save money because if you went to a mower shop they would have told you that none of those parts are in the ignition circuit apart from the ignition switch.
The only parts in the ignition circuit is the magneto, the ignition switch and the PTO safety switch and the brake switch.
Remove the blower housing and remove the small wire from the coil
If the mower starts then you have a bad safety switch.
If it does not start then the magneto module is bad.
Thanks, I will try that.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
Before you put the new one in there, check the wire you pulled off.
It should be open circuit with the ignition turned on and ground with the ignition turned off.
If it shows voltage at any time then there is a big problem in the wiring .
Do not connect the new module till you have sorted that out because applying battery voltage to the magnet will kill it dead flat.
It should be open circuit with the ignition turned on and ground with the ignition turned off.
If it shows voltage at any time then there is a big problem in the wiring .
Do not connect the new module till you have sorted that out because applying battery voltage to the magnet will kill it dead flat.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
guins,
Please be a bit more specific with your posts.
Still nothing is not much to go on.
From the start, was the engine rotating ?
If the flywheel does not turn the engine can not generate an spark.
If the flywheel is turning too slow it will not generate any spark.
If the engine is not turning and the new solenoid is just clicking then generally that is caused by a flat battery or corrosion on one of the main power wires.
starting with a freshly charged battery try the following
Simple to check.
Run a jumper from your battery - to the engine block.
Mower starts fine = bad ground
Run a jumper from your battery + to the hot side of the solenoid
Starts fine = bad power supply wire
Do the same as above to the starter side of the solenoid
Starts fine = duff solenoid
Dosn't start properly = duff starter
Before you do any of these check the valve lash.
I get a dozen "unfixable" mowers in every season where the owners have replaced some or all of the following for a cost of around $ 400 when all the mower needed was a valve adjustment.
Starter motor , solenoid, battery, ignition switch , PTO switch, Ground lead, Power lead.
Please be a bit more specific with your posts.
Still nothing is not much to go on.
From the start, was the engine rotating ?
If the flywheel does not turn the engine can not generate an spark.
If the flywheel is turning too slow it will not generate any spark.
If the engine is not turning and the new solenoid is just clicking then generally that is caused by a flat battery or corrosion on one of the main power wires.
starting with a freshly charged battery try the following
Simple to check.
Run a jumper from your battery - to the engine block.
Mower starts fine = bad ground
Run a jumper from your battery + to the hot side of the solenoid
Starts fine = bad power supply wire
Do the same as above to the starter side of the solenoid
Starts fine = duff solenoid
Dosn't start properly = duff starter
Before you do any of these check the valve lash.
I get a dozen "unfixable" mowers in every season where the owners have replaced some or all of the following for a cost of around $ 400 when all the mower needed was a valve adjustment.
Starter motor , solenoid, battery, ignition switch , PTO switch, Ground lead, Power lead.
Thanks I will try your latest suggestions. Hopefully I didn’t fry the magneto as you said before. What I mean by nothing is that it doesn’t try to start at all. I checked the seat switch and it’s working. Checked the voltage on pto switch and it’s good same with neutral safety. Battery is new and has a full charge. I have power to the lead that goes to alternator so assuming it has power since I can’t check because I put everything back together. Checked the ground it’s clean and tight.
UOTE=bertsmobile1;280440]guins,
Please be a bit more specific with your posts.
Still nothing is not much to go on.
From the start, was the engine rotating ?
If the flywheel does not turn the engine can not generate an spark.
If the flywheel is turning too slow it will not generate any spark.
If the engine is not turning and the new solenoid is just clicking then generally that is caused by a flat battery or corrosion on one of the main power wires.
starting with a freshly charged battery try the following
Simple to check.
Run a jumper from your battery - to the engine block.
Mower starts fine = bad ground
Run a jumper from your battery + to the hot side of the solenoid
Starts fine = bad power supply wire
Do the same as above to the starter side of the solenoid
Starts fine = duff solenoid
Dosn't start properly = duff starter
Before you do any of these check the valve lash.
I get a dozen "unfixable" mowers in every season where the owners have replaced some or all of the following for a cost of around $ 400 when all the mower needed was a valve adjustment.
Starter motor , solenoid, battery, ignition switch , PTO switch, Ground lead, Power lead.[/QUOTE]
UOTE=bertsmobile1;280440]guins,
Please be a bit more specific with your posts.
Still nothing is not much to go on.
From the start, was the engine rotating ?
If the flywheel does not turn the engine can not generate an spark.
If the flywheel is turning too slow it will not generate any spark.
If the engine is not turning and the new solenoid is just clicking then generally that is caused by a flat battery or corrosion on one of the main power wires.
starting with a freshly charged battery try the following
Simple to check.
Run a jumper from your battery - to the engine block.
Mower starts fine = bad ground
Run a jumper from your battery + to the hot side of the solenoid
Starts fine = bad power supply wire
Do the same as above to the starter side of the solenoid
Starts fine = duff solenoid
Dosn't start properly = duff starter
Before you do any of these check the valve lash.
I get a dozen "unfixable" mowers in every season where the owners have replaced some or all of the following for a cost of around $ 400 when all the mower needed was a valve adjustment.
Starter motor , solenoid, battery, ignition switch , PTO switch, Ground lead, Power lead.[/QUOTE]