I tried the suggestions regarding vent line and removing the gas cap, unfortunately it didn't make any difference. There must be an answer to this. This is my third season with this tractor and it runs great until maybe 20 minutes or so and it will sputter and eventually shut down. I can wait about 5 minutes or so, turn the key and carry on until it sputters again and stops. I mulch using the mulch plug and have always done so. I sure someone will have the answer. Thanks!
Temperature
- Thread starter Haliday
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bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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My go to in these situations is an in line spark tester & a can or carb cleaner
I fit the spark tester in a position where I can see it easily then go mow and watch the spark tester
On RER's & ZTR"S I have taken to using a Go-Pro to film the tester/s while I mow
Then as the engine is stopping I look at the tester
If it flashes all the way till the engine stops, that suggest the spark is good & the fuel supply is the problem so the instant it tops I spray some carb cleaner into the carb & see if the engine will fire
If it fires strait off I try to keep it running with more sprays for about 1/2 minute .
If that works I then use a spare tank with enough fuel to run for longer that the mower ran on its own tank connected directly to the carb and gravity feeding
If that works then I move the alternative tank to the fuel pump and try again
If that runs fine then that leaves the tank & the lines from the tank to the fuel pump.
Most of the time it ends up being floating debris in the fuel tank that gets dragged into the outlet and after x minutes it plugs off the outlet .
Now if the plug tester/s do not flash right up untill the engine stops . I check that the fuel solenoid is working and then remove the kill wires off the coils
Problem goes away = wiring problem
Problem unchanged = bad magneto
I fit the spark tester in a position where I can see it easily then go mow and watch the spark tester
On RER's & ZTR"S I have taken to using a Go-Pro to film the tester/s while I mow
Then as the engine is stopping I look at the tester
If it flashes all the way till the engine stops, that suggest the spark is good & the fuel supply is the problem so the instant it tops I spray some carb cleaner into the carb & see if the engine will fire
If it fires strait off I try to keep it running with more sprays for about 1/2 minute .
If that works I then use a spare tank with enough fuel to run for longer that the mower ran on its own tank connected directly to the carb and gravity feeding
If that works then I move the alternative tank to the fuel pump and try again
If that runs fine then that leaves the tank & the lines from the tank to the fuel pump.
Most of the time it ends up being floating debris in the fuel tank that gets dragged into the outlet and after x minutes it plugs off the outlet .
Now if the plug tester/s do not flash right up untill the engine stops . I check that the fuel solenoid is working and then remove the kill wires off the coils
Problem goes away = wiring problem
Problem unchanged = bad magneto
So you've ignored what I wrote to you. All you have done is loosen the fuel cap and complain here. Good luck with it.
What complaint??
Exactly.
Okay you are not getting off that easy. 
You need to check if you have air, fuel, spark and compression.
Go back and reread what we all offered you.
You need to check for spark with it dies on you. Your ignition coil might be going bad.
I bet you have some junk in your fuel tank like most mowers. Clean it out and install new fuel lines. Nice to add a filter and shut off valve if you have room.
You need to check if you have air, fuel, spark and compression.
Go back and reread what we all offered you.
You need to check for spark with it dies on you. Your ignition coil might be going bad.
I bet you have some junk in your fuel tank like most mowers. Clean it out and install new fuel lines. Nice to add a filter and shut off valve if you have room.
I have never adjusted the valves before and don't think I could. You mentioned the ignition coil and I've thought as well. Although it starts ok, could a faulty coil cause the engine to sputter after warming up and running for 20 minutes or so? I've put Seafoam in the tank a couple of times now.
BTW, I do appreciate your input.
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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- Nov 29, 2014
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Not trying to pull your strings or be dogmatic but I work this way
I ask you to do some tests
The results of these will make sense to all of the techs & engine savvy people who post here
So when you post the results any one of them can interperate them and either make a diagnosis or require more tests to narrow down the list of potential villians
Now once I have requested the tests I do not usually respond till they are done
Most of us could write a detailed list of at least 20 things that could be the cause of your problems, and in many cases the answer will not be the exact cause as it becomes a cascade A causes B then B causes C and C causes D and D is what you see.
I ask you to do some tests
The results of these will make sense to all of the techs & engine savvy people who post here
So when you post the results any one of them can interperate them and either make a diagnosis or require more tests to narrow down the list of potential villians
Now once I have requested the tests I do not usually respond till they are done
Most of us could write a detailed list of at least 20 things that could be the cause of your problems, and in many cases the answer will not be the exact cause as it becomes a cascade A causes B then B causes C and C causes D and D is what you see.