synthetic or 30w?

[ha4145]

i have had a couple of small engines (1 4hp and 1 15hp) i have the original briggs and stratton engine manual and it recomends sae-30 this type of oil is also in all the briggs and stratton service kits.

 

[reddragon]

after years of listnening to oil debates on 12 of the forums i belong to.....always use synthetic!!!...its very cheap considering gas is $3.90 gallon......and ROTELLA T6 is the best!

 

[Black Bart]

after years of listnening to oil debates on 12 of the forums i belong to.....always use synthetic!!!...its very cheap considering gas is $3.90 gallon......and ROTELLA T6 is the best!

Talking about price last winter Pennsoil had a rebate on their synthetic oil and advance Auto had coupons for 10 dollars off any 20 dollar purchase.

I bought a 5 quart jug and gave them the 10 dollar off coupon then sent my wife in to do the same.

Then I sent in for the 15.00 rebate bottom line is they paid me 5.00 per jug for buying their oil.

Now tell me how expensive it is to use synthetic oil. :laughing:

It pays to look for the deals their is all kinds of rebates and if you buy when they are on then you will have oil on hand when you need it

A friend of mine won 6 gallon of T-6 at a car show the dumb **** said he would not use shell so I gave him 30 bucks for the 6 gallon enough to keep my mowers running for years. :biggrin:

 

[reddragon]

its amazing how psychological elements influence people!.....not logic or facts :confused3:

 

[polly]

My question is if I have been using 30 wt conventional oil for the last 2200 hrs can i go to rotella t6 without it leaking ---rings seals. Its on a 721d grasshopper.---thhoughts please and ty ---polly

 

[bertsmobile1]

You will need to flush the oil out to get the ful benefit of the synthetic oil so change it after 2 or 3 mows then change it again.
Mower oil is different to car oil because it is designed to run over a wider range of operating temperatures being you mower does not have a radiator & thermostat to control the temperature.
Mower oils also have a lot more dewatering addatives and anti- corrosion addatives to cope with long periods of no use.
Regardless of what oil you use it should ideally be changed at the end of every season so it is not sitting in your engine chockers of all the corrosive by products of combustion all winter.
Unless you do a lot of mowing like better than 100 hours / year you will not reap the long life benefits of using synthetics.
Trouble is there are so may variables that it is not funny.
Even not being used people living on the edge of a desert will have different conditions to those living in Florida which will different again if you live in the rust belt, even inside your shed so one size will not fit all.

Oil debates are real fun.


Currently we are doing some trials with strait supermarket canola which is working a lot better than I though.
Time will tell & I get my engine parts wholesale so blowing an engine is not a problem.

 

[benski]

As much of an advocate as I am of synthetic oil, I wouldn't recommend changing over to it at this stage of the game in that piece of equipment. I think that all the deposits around the seals and rings that keep the oil inside will be removed by the detergents in the synthetic, and it will begin to leak like a sieve. Please don't ask how I know this...:ashamed:

 

[Carscw]

I will also say do not switch. You have 2200 hours on the engine I would not switch oils. What you have been using works. And it will leak I promise you.

 

[DK35vince]

I run Rotella T-6 5w-40 synthetic in my push mowers, zero turn, walk behind tiller, motorcycle, ATV, generators, Etc.

 

[Carscw]

I run Rotella T-6 5w-40 synthetic in my push mowers, zero turn, walk behind tiller, motorcycle, ATV, generators, Etc.

T-6 is good oil