I have a Super Bronco and the two drive belt idler pullies have bad bearings and need to be replaced. My problem is there is no way to get access to the nut holding the second pulley in place. The designers have encapsulated the nut between the main floor and another piece of metal. The only way out is to drill a hole in the floor to get to the nut. Help appreciated. Thanks Jack
Super Bronco - remove second idler pulley.
- Thread starter Trout bum
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What you have to do is take the fender pan loose raise up enough to get your hand in there using 2x4 as spacers. Often time the two screws into cross over area are cover by the operations label but you can access these by where they and cut out the plastic so you can remove these.
Star Tech:
Thank you very much. Saved me a lot of time and effort. I can sleep good tonight. Jack
bertsmobile1
Lawn Royalty
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Firstly welcome to the forum.
Now for the cranky bit.
You have posted this in 3 places with slightly different information in each one .
Is it a bronco or a super bronco ?
in any case what we really need is the numbers off the ID tag under the seat
As it could be a hydro drive or a vari drive and both have different belt routings
In any case I use a long zero offset ring in most of these cases which will fit between the two steel plated.
Where I can't do that I usually drop the lower plate which of course means removing a few bibs & bobs first.
However till I know exactly which model you have all this is just generalized guess work.
As was mentioned else wear some models have access plugs in the floor . usually under the big instruction sticker while others have a hole accessed under the dash tower but only when the steering is full lock .
Now for the cranky bit.
You have posted this in 3 places with slightly different information in each one .
Is it a bronco or a super bronco ?
in any case what we really need is the numbers off the ID tag under the seat
As it could be a hydro drive or a vari drive and both have different belt routings
In any case I use a long zero offset ring in most of these cases which will fit between the two steel plated.
Where I can't do that I usually drop the lower plate which of course means removing a few bibs & bobs first.
However till I know exactly which model you have all this is just generalized guess work.
As was mentioned else wear some models have access plugs in the floor . usually under the big instruction sticker while others have a hole accessed under the dash tower but only when the steering is full lock .
I have come up with a way that works for me. I grab the idler arm and pull down on it as hard as I can and use a strong impact to take the bolt our. I have never had this not work. To put it back make sure the nut is in place push up on the bolt really careful and you can catch the threads on the nut and tighten it up with the impact.
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How do you take the bolt our? Never heard doing that to a bolt.
That is if the nut doesn't move out of place. For me it would just do that to piss me off. It better to just take the fender pan loose. Although time consuming it seems to be the best solution. Still have figure out why they stop using carriage bolts other than cost.
Thanks Everyone.
I took the longest but simplest approach by removing the entire fender pan. While I was there I also noticed the idler pulley on the transmission belt needs to replaced also. My next quest is to go to my local small engine repair shop “R & R in East Granby CT” and see if they have any. If not I will check out the web. Thanks again everyone. Jack
I took the longest but simplest approach by removing the entire fender pan. While I was there I also noticed the idler pulley on the transmission belt needs to replaced also. My next quest is to go to my local small engine repair shop “R & R in East Granby CT” and see if they have any. If not I will check out the web. Thanks again everyone. Jack