I can't stop trying to figure this thing out. I just replaced a whole bunch of the wiring and got fed up with it. I have a couple ore to replace and then to test two wires for continuity. I have little faith that this work is going to correct the no power to the starter but I will keep you posted. He does not want to purchase a new wiring harness.
STX38 electrical issues
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bertsmobile1
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Now we have a wiring diagram things will get a bit more simple.
Check the entire power ( purple wires ) feed to the starter solenoid. Forget about the clutch for now, one thing at a time.
Pull the plug off the back of the starter switch and connect 12V to the purple wire in the key switch plug.
I like to use a test lamp rather than a meter but it dosent really matter.
Follow the 12 V through the PTO switch and then all the way to the starter solenoid.
Some where along the line you will find the black hole to the parallel universe where 12 V goes in and nothing comes out.
By probing for your 12 V signal you won't have rip all the loom open to find where the wires actually go.
Do one circuit at a time, forget about what was there that did not make any sense.
People with no idea what they are doing shove wires all over the place bypssing this and cross wiring that willy nilly.
When I started out I got into the same trap you are in trying to figure out what I was seeing in front of me rather that checking and repairing what should be there.
One circuit at a time and all of a sudden you will see wires that are not supposed to be there or hooked up to the wrong place.
So once you get the starter wire sorted out then go to the PTO clutch wires.
They are easy as they go directly from the PTO switch to the clutch.
Check the entire power ( purple wires ) feed to the starter solenoid. Forget about the clutch for now, one thing at a time.
Pull the plug off the back of the starter switch and connect 12V to the purple wire in the key switch plug.
I like to use a test lamp rather than a meter but it dosent really matter.
Follow the 12 V through the PTO switch and then all the way to the starter solenoid.
Some where along the line you will find the black hole to the parallel universe where 12 V goes in and nothing comes out.
By probing for your 12 V signal you won't have rip all the loom open to find where the wires actually go.
Do one circuit at a time, forget about what was there that did not make any sense.
People with no idea what they are doing shove wires all over the place bypssing this and cross wiring that willy nilly.
When I started out I got into the same trap you are in trying to figure out what I was seeing in front of me rather that checking and repairing what should be there.
One circuit at a time and all of a sudden you will see wires that are not supposed to be there or hooked up to the wrong place.
So once you get the starter wire sorted out then go to the PTO clutch wires.
They are easy as they go directly from the PTO switch to the clutch.
I Well I thought I got the wiring figured out until yesterday. I tested the PTO switch and it was bad, bought a replacement and gave it a shot. The ignition switch did nothing when turned, but I can now jump the solenoid and make the engine turn over. I will test the ignition switch today and see if it is good or burned up also. Will post results this afternoon.
Boobala
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I'm just curious, with all this testing , have you checked the battery voltage...??? are the battery cables CLEAN & TIGHT ?? Is the start solenoid properly grounded ( clean & tight connections ) SOMETIMES we overlook the most obvious. .... Boobala
The battery is brand new all the cables have been cleaned and are tight everything at thee solenoid is correct. I think when the PTO clutch burned up it took a bunch or wiring and the ingnition and PTO switch with it.
Yesterday I replaced th PTO switch Ignition switch and found the seat safety switch to be bad. I can now jump the solenoid with a screwdriver and the motor will turn over, getting nothing when turning the ignition switch. I also checked continuity on some of the wiring and found none to be burned up.
bertsmobile1
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OK,
You have a circuit diagram.
Read it.
Seat switch is not in the starting circuit. It is in the magneto cut out circuits.
Depending upon which model you have the starting circuit has 4 or 5 switches
1) ignition switch
2) Pto switch
3) Gearbox neutral switch
4) brake switch
5) solenoid.
Do as advised.
Pull the ignition switch plug and put 12 V into the purple S wire on the switch plug and follow it through the machine.
Stop fantasy thinking.
Look, then do
One circuit at a time.
IF IT DOES NOT CRANK THEN THE PROBLEM IS IN THE CRANKING CIRCUIT
You have a circuit diagram.
Read it.
Seat switch is not in the starting circuit. It is in the magneto cut out circuits.
Depending upon which model you have the starting circuit has 4 or 5 switches
1) ignition switch
2) Pto switch
3) Gearbox neutral switch
4) brake switch
5) solenoid.
Do as advised.
Pull the ignition switch plug and put 12 V into the purple S wire on the switch plug and follow it through the machine.
Stop fantasy thinking.
Look, then do
One circuit at a time.
IF IT DOES NOT CRANK THEN THE PROBLEM IS IN THE CRANKING CIRCUIT